Anttique Oil is discontinued.

[iublue]

I just found out that Minwax has discontinued their Antique Oil.  Not a fan of Minwax products but I liked the AO so of course, they discontinue it! It was easy to apply and did what I wanted.
I used in mainly on walnut to pop the grain and thought it did a nice job of it.  Mostly, I sprayed GF Enduro over that.  Always looked nice, at least to me.
Now that it is discontinued, what do the experts on here use to pop the grain?
I assume BLO would work but doesn't that take quite a while to dry enough to spray over?  Not a terribly patient person!! LOL  I generally waited a day for the AO to dry.
Someone told me the Bullseye Seal Coat would work.  Any thoughts?

Also, I am going to be making cabinets for a entire kitchen out of QS white oak.
What is the best way to pop the grain in oak?
Once again, I will be spraying GF Enduro over the top.

[jteneyck]

I just found out that Minwax has discontinued their Antique Oil.  Not a fan of Minwax products but I liked the AO so of course, they discontinue it!  It was easy to apply and did what I wanted.
I used in mainly on walnut to pop the grain and thought it did a nice job of it.  Mostly, I sprayed GF Enduro over that.  Always looked nice, at least to me.
Now that it is discontinued, what do the experts on here use to pop the grain?
I assume BLO would work but doesn't that take quite a while to dry enough to spray over?  Not a terribly patient person!! LOL  I generally waited a day for the AO to dry.
Someone told me the Bullseye Seal Coat would work.  Any thoughts?

Also, I am going to be making cabinets for a entire kitchen out of QS white oak.
What is the best way to pop the grain in oak?
Once again, I will be spraying GF Enduro over the top.

Sealcoat shellac will pop the grain of walnut, but Danish Oil or Arm-R-Seal will do it to a much higher degree.  BLO will do it, too, very well, but I hate the stuff because it takes so long to cure so I almost never use it.   Also, Sealcoat is a great bonding layer over an OB product so the WB topcoat will adhere properly.  Sealcoat plus WB topcoat is the fastest combination though.  Another option is to use a dye, either first, or added to the Sealcoat, and then your topcoat.  It's a time efficient process, too.  

If you want to pop the grain of white oak, you should be thinking about a multi-step process.  Walnut Danish Oil followed by your topcoat is a simple process that does a nice job.  A more complex approach is to first use a dye, then seal it, then use a dark gel stain, then seal it, and then apply your topcoat.  Look on Homestead Finishing's website for recipes and colors under the section about Stickley finishes.  

John

[EdL]

IIRC, Antique oil is nothing more than Linseed oil.

Ed

[fredhargis]

It's not a product I'll miss.

[iublue]

Sealcoat shellac will pop the grain of walnut, but Danish Oil or Arm-R-Seal will do it to a much higher degree.  BLO will do it, too, very well, but I hate the stuff because it takes so long to cure so I almost never use it.   Also, Sealcoat is a great bonding layer over an OB product so the WB topcoat will adhere properly.  Sealcoat plus WB topcoat is the fastest combination though.  Another option is to use a dye, either first, or added to the Sealcoat, and then your topcoat.  It's a time efficient process, too.  

If you want to pop the grain of white oak, you should be thinking about a multi-step process.  Walnut Danish Oil followed by your topcoat is a simple process that does a nice job.  A more complex approach is to first use a dye, then seal it, then use a dark gel stain, then seal it, and then apply your topcoat.  Look on Homestead Finishing's website for recipes and colors under the section about Stickley finishes.  

John

I googled dry time for danish oil and it stated 72 hours before coating over the top of it.

Is that the time frame you use??

Also, I used some sealcoat on walnut and darn it dries fast.
I was so used to applying the oil and wiping off the excess but that doesn't work with sealcoat.
What is your method of application?

Thanks

Toney

[iublue]

It's not a product I'll miss.

Care to expand your feelings?

[fredhargis]

Care to expand your feelings?

It's been probably over 40 years since i last use that product, but according to Flexner it's nothing more than an oil/varnish blend (danish oil). Now, back when we had info on MSDS sheets, I do remember that most of the factory danish oils had more solvents than finish, making them very thin also leads to fewer consumer complaints (I guess) since they go on so nicely. I like danish oils for some application, but I prefer to mix my own....usually 1/3 each BLO, varnish, and MS. But (IMHO) it was just not money well spent buying the off the shelf stuff, plus I can mix just the amount I need and not have any to toss or go bad.

[jteneyck]

I googled dry time for danish oil and it stated 72 hours before coating over the top of it.

Is that the time frame you use??

Also, I used some sealcoat on walnut and darn it dries fast. 
I was so used to applying the oil and wiping off the excess but that doesn't work with sealcoat.
What is your method of application?

Thanks

Toney

Shellac dries so fast that I spray it for anything larger than a small box.  

I know GF says you can apply their WB finishes over oil based products after they have fully dried, but I can't remember actually ever doing that.  I always spray a light coat of Sealcoat over the oil after it has dried for a couple of days, then wait at least 12 hours, and then spray my WB topcoats.  I wait 12 hours after spraying the Sealcoat because I found out the hard way that some WB topcoats will craze if applied too soon.  A faster alternative might be to use GF's WB sealer instead, but I never have.  

If Sealcoat doesn't pop the grain as much as you would like, you have a couple more options.  One is to dye the piece first, then Sealcoat or straight to your topcoat.  Dye does amazing things to highlight grain.  Another option is to use a different oil, like GF's Seal-A-Cell.  

Sealcoat is still a genuine bargain if you buy 2 gallons online from HD.  It's about $90 with free delivery.  Before the pandemic it was $75 or so, so the increase isn't bad considering.  Enduro Sanding Sealer is $82 for a single gallon.  

John

[iublue]

Shellac dries so fast that I spray it for anything larger than a small box.  

I know GF says you can apply their WB finishes over oil based products after they have fully dried, but I can't remember actually ever doing that.  I always spray a light coat of Sealcoat over the oil after it has dried for a couple of days, then wait at least 12 hours, and then spray my WB topcoats.  I wait 12 hours after spraying the Sealcoat because I found out the hard way that some WB topcoats will craze if applied too soon.  A faster alternative might be to use GF's WB sealer instead, but I never have.  

If Sealcoat doesn't pop the grain as much as you would like, you have a couple more options.  One is to dye the piece first, then Sealcoat or straight to your topcoat.  Dye does amazing things to highlight grain.  Another option is to use a different oil, like GF's Seal-A-Cell.  

Sealcoat is still a genuine bargain if you buy 2 gallons online from HD.  It's about $90 with free delivery.  Before the pandemic it was $75 or so, so the increase isn't bad considering.  Enduro Sanding Sealer is $82 for a single gallon.  

John

Hmmm.  I just hate to have to change my procedures.  Guess that is a function of getting old!!  And, having a way to do things that I like and comfortable with.

I don't think I really want to spray the Sealcoat.  At least through my turbine, I only spray WB finishes.  And I don't know if it would be an issue but my spray room fan is not explosion proof SINCE I only spray WB!

I have sprayed MANY pieces with Enduro over the Antique Oil and I have never had an issue of any kind.  Tables, end tables, stair treads, etc., etc..

I might have to go the danish oil route.  I could try Seal-A-Cell.

When you say "dye", what exactly are you talking about?  In most cases, especially walnut, I don't want to change the color of the wood, I just want to pop the grain.  That is one of things I loved about Antique Oil, wiping it on was almost like magic to me.

I am going to have to adapt (darn it
, and try some different procedures.

Thanks again,

Toney