+- Woodnet Forums (https://www.forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure (/showthread.php?tid=3058880)
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - identity_crisis - 09-07-2007
I think it looks jusst spanky. I have enjoyed this thread immensely. You have done a tremendous job - not too mention cutting giant size dovetails with butt chisels...who here can say they've done that
looks great. Thanks so much for letting us share in this journey.
andy
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - Skip J. - 09-07-2007
PapaHsieh said:
I have enjoyed this thread immensely. You have done a tremendous job - not too mention cutting giant size dovetails with butt chisels...who here can say they've done that
Not me!
I even learned about left-hand thread drill bits here, you just never know...
Beautiful!
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - mstens - 09-07-2007
PapaHsieh said:
I think it looks jusst spanky. I have enjoyed this thread immensely. You have done a tremendous job - not too mention cutting giant size dovetails with butt chisels...who here can say they've done that
looks great. Thanks so much for letting us share in this journey.
andy
I agree completely! Excellent job!
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - mpphoto - 09-07-2007
This thread has become like a favorite tv show, I always look forward to another installment
Looks great to me! Looking forward to the next episode...Michael
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - sherwood - 09-07-2007
Crooked Tail said:
. . . I drilled 7/32 pilot holes (couldn't find my 1/4" bit), and tried to mount it with 5/8" lag screws. Well, I broke both the screws off flush with the wood, before they even got tight. Way too small of a pilot hole???
. . . .
YES, PH is like screwing into metal it is soooooo hard !!! (DAMHIKT). If I were trying to drive 5/8" lags into PH, I would look at a 3/8 pilot !!!or at least 5/16".
The idea about filing in the grooves up several threads is a good one, it WILL help a bunch.
Also, at Lowes, you may want to look at the cabinets above the open stock and get grade 5 bolts. Normal are only grade 3 which does not take that much to shear (as you have discovered).
And yes, PH is MUCH, MUCH and oh, did I say MUCH worse than maple !!!.
As an alternate suggestion, you may want to consider using regular bolts (standard thread hex head, not lag) and actaully TAP the hole prior to use. PH will take threads quite readilly and you would eliminate the binding to shear problem as well as if you need to remove/replace them.
Let us know how it turns out, it's been great following this adventure.
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - Skip J. - 09-09-2007
sherwood said:
And yes, PH is MUCH, MUCH and oh, did I say MUCH worse than maple !!!.As an alternate suggestion, you may want to consider using regular bolts (standard thread hex head, not lag) and actaully TAP the hole prior to use. PH will take threads quite readilly and you would eliminate the binding to shear problem as well as if you need to remove/replace them.Let us know how it turns out, it's been great following this adventure.
Hey CT;
This is also an excellent solution if you continue to work woods like PH, although tapping can lead to metalworking too... The tool handle you use to turn an EZ Out is also the same handle to hold'n turn a tap....
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - Crooked Tail - 09-11-2007
Thanks sherwood, and everyone for all your suggestions and help regarding the face vise. I was able to salvage it after all. It was sort of touch-and-go, but I did manage to get the sheared bolt shank out with the EZ-Out. I bought some "Higgins" brand lag screws, which are only 1", instead of the 2" I was using before (I wanted 1.5, but they didn't have them at Lowes). I don't know if these are better screws, but they were certainly more expensive.
I did put a piece of PH on the inside of the vise. As Bob Z suggested, I just screwed it on, so it can be replaced if it gets chewed up. I still have to do some final clean up, but overall, I'm fairly happy with how it has turned out. In a few days, the PH on the jaw will turn more purple and match better.
I can't believe it... the main bench is actually approaching... (dare I say it?)
... d-o-n-e. 
There is still a lot of clean up, and then final flattening. I'm thinking an oil finish of just BLO, or maybe Watco Danish oil, or...?
I'm still planning on building cabinets for underneath it, but I may have to take a little break first.
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - mstens - 09-11-2007
I had BLO, turpentine and wax on hand. Had I not I'd have done watco teak oil more'n likely. It's looking great and I like the jaw liner
After seeing the new black hardware I may have to paint mine 
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - mpphoto - 09-11-2007
Well CT, it's looking really, really nice! Maybe you should flip it upside down again just for giggles?
I did the opposite as you; the cabinets underneath and above are almost ready but I fear assembling the bench Based on a few previous threads here I've decided to use Watco on my benchtop... assuming I ever finish it.
thread 1
thread 2
Great work! Thanks for keeping us posted.
Michael
Re: CT's Most Excellent Workbench Adventure - Skip J. - 09-11-2007
Crooked Tail said:
Thanks sherwood, and everyone for all your suggestions and help regarding the face vise. I was able to salvage it after all. It was sort of touch-and-go, but I did manage to get the sheared bolt shank out with the EZ-Out. I bought some "Higgins" brand lag screws, which are only 1", instead of the 2" I was using before (I wanted 1.5, but they didn't have them at Lowes). I don't know if these are better screws, but they were certainly more expensive.
Glad to hear it worked out for you... if ever a "save" was beautiful, that vise is "it".....