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Insulating non-wrapped structure - jppierson - 01-05-2022
Woodnetters, I have a 2-story barn/shed that is sheathed with T-11. It is not insulated nor wrapped. This is going to be my wood working shop and I intend to heat/cool it using split A/C. So, what are your recommendations to insulate? My concern is the lack of vapor barrier and which side should the vapor barrier be on? The shop is located in North Central FL, so hot in the summer, but not so cold in the winter. I don't use a lot of power equipment and intend to work mostly with hand tools.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - cams2705 - 01-05-2022
(01-05-2022, 06:03 PM)jppierson Wrote: Woodnetters, I have a 2-story barn/shed that is sheathed with T-11. It is not insulated nor wrapped. This is going to be my wood working shop and I intend to heat/cool it using split A/C. So, what are your recommendations to insulate? My concern is the lack of vapor barrier and which side should the vapor barrier be on? The shop is located in North Central FL, so hot in the summer, but not so cold in the winter. I don't use a lot of power equipment and intend to work mostly with hand tools.
I take it from the inside, you see exposed studs and the back of the T1-11. If you, use a closed cell spray foam. Probably best to have someone come in to do it. Closed cell insulation, when properly applied, acts as a vapor barrier.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - taxman - 01-05-2022
Is the cost of wrapping it prohibitive?
I live in So Fla so we generally don't do that, but the concept of an outer waterproof (kind of) coating seems very worthwhile.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - crokett™ - 01-05-2022
(01-05-2022, 06:39 PM)taxman Wrote: Is the cost of wrapping it prohibitive?
I live in So Fla so we generally don't do that, but the concept of an outer waterproof (kind of) coating seems very worthwhile.
It sounds like it's already sheathed. The only buildings I've seen wrapped are sheathed, then wrapped then some sort of siding is put over the wrapping. To wrap he'd have to wrap it then reside over the wrapping, or pull the existing siding, sheath with ply or somesuch, wrap, then reapply the siding.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - Petertaylor - 01-05-2022
Just had our 30 x 40 metal garage foamed to make it suitable for wood shop. Very cold in northern Illinois. Very expensive, but no point stating the cost. You’d have to get a local quote.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - stav - 01-05-2022
I have nothing to add regarding your question, but welcome to Central FL.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - Snipe Hunter - 01-05-2022
When you insulate with glass, you should also seal the walls to reduce air movement, houses are built this way. Air movement introduces moisture. Wrap is porous. It catches some moisture but allows air to pass through. It's only there to catch "some" moisture. No matter what you do, some air will pass through your walls and you want it to or the walls and interior can never dry out. But you want to keep air movement to a minimum. If you can caulk the stud bays and T1-11 seams, and your top and bottom plates it will help keep the insulation dry by reducing air movement.
That being said. Foam will stop air movement so you need some sort of air exchange. Maybe open a door or window once in a while. Your own body will probably the biggest moisture producer in the shop. We humans produce a lot of moisture.
Also. Insulate under the floor, between the joists if possible and lay down plastic sheathing (6mil or greater or it will deteriorate fairly quickly) underneath if it isn't on a slab. Bare earth under a wood floor produces a lot of moisture inside the structure and then your insulation looses a lot of it's effectiveness because that moisture will collect in it..
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - jppierson - 01-06-2022
Floor is cement slab. Ceiling is 8ft. The structure is bare studs, wired, but no vapor barrier inside the t-11 sheathing, in other words I can see the back of the sheathing inside the building. Sounds like the way to go is to have closed cell installed. I will need to seal the base plates and replace the door jambs. The roof is classic barn style and I am getting a lot of splash on the lower sides when it rains. I intend to add some guttering to resolve that issue, the roof is brand new.
What interior finish for the shop? I have seen people use a combination of drywall behind where they intend to hang cabinets, and plywood everywhere else in order to hand tools and such.
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - Turner52 - 01-06-2022
Foam yes. As to interior wall and ceilinf finish I would use 7/ 16 osb painted white. That is what I used in my last shop as well as the current one. The paint really brightened it up, so I needed less lighting. I could fasten anything anywhere. Maybe not the prettiest, but works very well for me. Depends on what you want. Aworking shop or a showpiece. Mine will never be a showpiece. Too much sawdust on the floor and assorted scraps on every flat surface. still works for me. The only thing I am very good at is putting tools back where they belong. I can usually grab what I need without a long search. Except utilty knives and pencils. Have no idea where those darn thing go
RE: Insulating non-wrapped structure - John Mihich - 01-06-2022
Wrapping if fairly new in comparison to buildings. Before the wrap the foil faced fiberglass was used. Not perfect but it's been done for decades. I did that for my shop. I then used 1/2 plywood to cover the inside; I would go 5/8 now.