?? About using Kreg jig
#19
Kreg 2 1/2" HD screws coated 20 bux


Spax at HD less ouch

Either screw will work well in the kind of application you are looking at. The Spax are pretty good screws. After using thousands of them, still no "bad screws" no cam out, no breakage, no problems. I cannot say that about the screws branded as Kreg.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
I use 2.5" blue coat coarse non hd kreg screws at $63-$70 per 2000. What do 2000 spax screws cost at that qty? I too have had a few "bad screws" in my boxes of kreg bulk in the 10000 i have used so far.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#21
STeve N- yes, exactly like that. I want to build a table for a big green egg. I want to attach the 2 by 4 stretchers to the 4 by 4 legs with screws to make the frame. The table will be about 28" deep and 58" long.

I am concerned that this method of construction might not be strong enough. The big green egg weighs about 180 lbs. and I will have the table on casters. I have seen pictures of other green egg tables where it appears that they have used this method of construction. 

I thought about gluing the joint as well even though I know this would not be the strongest joints since it would be an end grain (2 by 4 end) to the face grain of the 4 by  joint. 

I have a regular Kreg jig but it sounds like I would need to buy the HD jig. I also thought about sistering another 2 by 4 to the first 2 by 4 to make it stronger and possibly prevent it from sagging under the weight of the egg. 

Anyone have any thoughts about the above explanation of what I want to do? All opinions appreciated, especially from those who might have used this method.
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#22
Hi Randy,
You can still use your regular Kreg jig if you screw from both sides. Invest in a couple bar clamps if you need to and firmly clamp the stretcher between the legs where it belongs before driving the screws. Do this to assemble the two ends of the stand then clamp the ends together with the remaining stretchers to complete the base. You can buy little wood plugs to hide the screw holes that show. If you are worried about sturdiness I would suggest stretchers top and bottom.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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#23
(11-19-2016, 10:20 AM)Steve N Wrote: Kreg 2 1/2" HD screws coated 20 bux


Spax at HD less ouch

Either screw will work well in the kind of application you are looking at. The Spax are pretty good screws. After using thousands of them, still no "bad screws" no cam out, no breakage, no problems. I cannot say that about the screws branded as Kreg.

Spax screws like that won't fit in a pocket hole.
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#24
Tell me why this wouldn't work?
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#25
Mike I get mine at Menards, and like everything else they can order bulk sizes too. I'd just check with the hardware department manager and see what either buying a bunch of small boxes would cost, or if there was a bulk option, wait for 11%, and scoop them up
Big Grin
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#26
I might think of a lap joint, m&t (pegged), sliding dove tail, or long lag bolts, with wood plugs, if high strength is needed.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
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