Remote for 3HP Dust Collector

[Blacky's Boy]

fredhargis said:

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You've got it.....you can get those connectors in smaller packs at any hardware/box stores (I think even Wal Mart has them).

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Yeah, great minds think alike. I was thinking to myself, "What the HELL am I going to do with all those extra connectors?" and decided to buy a smaller pack at the local hardware store.

Edit to add:
I just ordered the contactor, wireless remote, and 6x6x4 enclosure. They should all be here within a week or so. Then we'll start building!

Muaw-aw-aw! (insert evil laugh here accompanied by dry washing of hands) I feel like a mad scientist!

[Blacky's Boy]

Well, all of the components arrived yesterday. Now all I need to do is buy the connectors and some assorted small electrical supplies (connectors and strain reliefs) and we'll be good to go.

[Belle City Woodworking]

Dom,

Please let us know how it works for you!

Thanks!
John

[Guest]

I took a different tack when I installed my Clear Vue. I ran my duct work around the ceiling and built blast gates with low voltage magnetic switches that activate the relay that controls the cyclone. Jameel Abraham was kind enough to share his design for the blast gates with me so I can't claim credit for them.



Opening the blast gate turns the cyclone on; closing it turns the cyclone off. There's a blast gate at every machine, so I never have to look for a remote.






There is also an LED photo electric switch built into the circuit that shuts the cyclone off when the bin gets full. Works like a charm.

Hank

[Belle City Woodworking]

Hank,

You are not the man that knows the man -- YOU are the Man!!!

That is outstanding!

John

[Guest]

Thanks for the compliment, John.

One thing I like about this set-up is that I can switch from machine to machine without turning the cyclone off and on each time. Cycling these big motors on and off at short intervals is hard in them and on the starter. They last much longer if you just let them run rather than cycling them on and off. I suppose you can do the same thing with a remote, but not with automatic blast gates that activate when you turn a machine on and off.

I have more detailed photos and a schematic for the circuit I'd be happy to share if anyone is interested.

[Rick_B]

Hank - what am I missing - (probab ly the obvious ) - I agree cycling the motors is probably not good for them but when I read your description it sounds like opening and closing blast gates has the same effect as a remote - in terms of motor off/on cycles?

[Blacky's Boy]

Wow, I'm impressed!!! Those look like very well designed blast gates! And super simple to operate.

[Guest]

Rick, you are right, opening and closing a blast gate turns the cyclone on and off. If I'm performing one operation, that's what happens. But if I'm switching between two or more machines, I use a different sequence: I open the blast gate for the first operation. When I' done, I leave it open and move to the next machine where I open the second blast gate. The cyclone continues to run. I can either leave the first gate open (my 5hp Clear Vue has plenty of suck for two machines in my small shop); or I can go back and close the first gate to direct all the suction to the second machine. In either case, the cyclone continues to run between operations. The switches are wired parallel, so as long as there is at least one closed magnetic switch in the circuit, the cyclone motor is on. This is no different from using a remote to control the cyclone, but it is different from using machine motor sensors to control the cyclone. I guess you could leave the machine running when you switch operations, but that doesn't strike me as a good practice.
Hope that makes sense.

[Blacky's Boy]

Hey Fred, how hard would it be to put a manual switch on this box or on a 10' pendant connected to the box?

I'm thinking about the possibility of having a manual override in case the remote gets lost. Since you need to disconnect the magnetic starter at the DC you rally have no way to turn the DC on if you loose the remote. If would have to work independently of the remote and be tied right into the contactor. Got any ideas on that?


I was also thinking of a way to wire an indicator light into the front panel of the enclosure. That way I can tell if it's energized or not from across the shop (yes I know I'd hear the DC come on. But I'm thinking of an indicator if I'm wearing ear protection or as a test for the Remote). I know Amazon sells 200 V indicator lights.



AC 220V Red LED Power Indicator Pilot Single Light Lamp 22mm

Or would you wire them into the 110V line?