Cabinet Install

[Scoony]

One of those posts where hand tools came to save the day. 

We recently remodeled our master bathroom. We removed the jetted tub and replaced it with a walk-in shower. We also tore out the small shower and put up drywall in its place.  

I built a lower and upper cabinet for that space for extra storage. 

This is the upper cabinet with divided light doors. I still need to pick up the glass panes for the doors and get them glazed in place. 
 

   

I measured it to have a little space. Problem was the space was not equal all the way back. The front section was a bit narrower. 

   


I had to take hand planes to remove the first level of veneer on both sides so I could fit the cabinets into place. Hey! it works and was quick.  

   

This was only half of the plane shavings

   


Getting the upper cabinet into place

   

Both installed

   

I will add 1/4 round on the sides to cover the gap, and get a piece of granite for the base cabinet.  Will also have to smooth out the walls and repaint. 

Learned something about plywood. This is pretty good quality plywood. Better than what the big box stores carry. Once you start to get into the second ply, there are tiny bits of metal. Tore up my #5 blade pretty bad. I think they may place those bits of metal to keep the plys from shifting during glue up, but not sure. Luckily I have a CBN wheel on my grinder so getting past those nicks did not take long.

[Stwood_]

Cabs look great.

Yes, I've trimmed ply like that. Gotta do what you gotta do.
 
As for the metal, they use disposable blades to cut the strings holding the ply's separate, so they can get the sheet in place without contacting the fast setting glue to early.
I think they pitch the blades on the ply to get rid of them. I cut numerous small metal pieces on the table saw.

[fredhargis]

They do look great, but that planing job must have been some work doing the entire side.

[Scoony]

They do look great, but that planing job must have been some work doing the entire side.

Faster then using the belt sander.

[jasfrank]

On built ins I always make the box about 1/2" narrower than the face frame, then put the box in place before putting the face frame on. Next build the face frame, first scribing each outer stiles edge to the wall. Its simple to plumb and tape each stile up to the cabinet, then transfer a scribe from the wall. After those are done build the complete face frame to the correct width. Then taper each edge of the outer stiles a bit for ease in putting it in place. That's the only way that I've found to do it so you don't have gaps etc along the edges, as no drywall goes on perfectly plumb. Doing it this way allows for perfect scribes to the wall in a 2 wall situation.

[jteneyck]

They look good, but next time put the faceframe at least 1/2" over the sides of the cabinet box so you can scribe them to the walls.  That will eliminate both problems you had.  Also, you can make the job easier by scribing the faceframe first before attaching it to the cabinet.  

John

[CLETUS]

 We also tore out the small shower and put up drywall in its place.  

You should fire your drywall contractor for not making your cubby square.

[joe1086]

Nice work on the inset doors. Gaps look good.

[Scoony]

Now you all tell me to put the face frame on last, and scribe it to the wall!

I was actually thinking that when I was struggling to install them. Now I know.

That's the way most of my home improvement projects go. Learn the right way after I am almost done.

[Stwood_]

Now you all tell me to put the face frame on last, and scribe it to the wall!

Thats the hard way to go. As John said, make the box smaller than the frame.
Commercial installers don't do that, why should we