finishing an edge grain countertop
#18
(02-15-2022, 09:33 AM)Bill Holt Wrote: This is not the advice you are looking for...why are you using Waterlox on a counter top?  Waterlox was my go-to finish (wish someone would give me $1 for every can I bought).  If it were mine, I would want a poly finish.  If I'm wrong, hope someone will step forward and explain.

I can't offer any concrete reason for or against, Bill, but I know a LOT of people have used Waterlox on countertops and have been very pleased.  Personally, I see no reason why a polyurethane varnish would be any better than a phenolic one like Waterlox.  Both are history if you cut on them.  Both will burn if you put a scorching hot pot on them.  Neither will stain very easily.   

John
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#19
Thank you all for piling on after I admitted it was silly to worry about such a small cost.
Blush I get it! As I said, it's a big mindset change for me moving from hobbyist to professional but I'm working on it. For instance, I'm buying $100+ sheets of paint-grade plywood with minimal stress. 6 months ago I would have probably hyperventilated at the idea!
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#20
(02-15-2022, 11:06 PM)mr_skittle Wrote: Thank you all for piling on after I admitted it was silly to worry about such a small cost.
Blush I get it! As I said, it's a big mindset change for me moving from hobbyist to professional but I'm working on it. For instance, I'm buying $100+ sheets of paint-grade plywood with minimal stress. 6 months ago I would have probably hyperventilated at the idea!

Ha, if you think this was bad then don't go anywhere near WoodWeb.  Those folks just love to take a pound of flesh before offering any help, if they ever actually do.  Pompous and arrogant are words that come to mind for a few of the regulars.  No wonder the traffic on that site is minimal.  

John
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#21
(02-16-2022, 10:24 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Ha, if you think this was bad then don't go anywhere near WoodWeb.  Those folks just love to take a pound of flesh before offering any help, if they ever actually do.  Pompous and arrogant are words that come to mind for a few of the regulars.  No wonder the traffic on that site is minimal.  

John

Just to be clear, I was being sarcastic. I don't really feel piled on or offended at all. Considering the natural path of discussion on the internet is always towards chaos, I've always appreciated Woodnet for its civility and supportive community. This thread once again reminds me of that point. Thanks all for your input.
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#22
(02-15-2022, 09:33 AM)Bill Holt Wrote: This is not the advice you are looking for...why are you using Waterlox on a counter top?  Waterlox was my go-to finish (wish someone would give me $1 for every can I bought).  If it were mine, I would want a poly finish.  If I'm wrong, hope someone will step forward and explain.

waterlox original sealer is a fantastic option for a countertop, especially mahogany/sapele or an open-grain wood.  i have it in my own house, and i've done it for others with great success.  it's beautiful, durable and dries incredibly hard.  that said, you have to prep the wood properly, and i think i use 5 coats with a lot of time between.
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#23
(02-16-2022, 07:03 PM)zaret Wrote: waterlox original sealer is a fantastic option for a countertop, especially mahogany/sapele or an open-grain wood.  i have it in my own house, and i've done it for others with great success.  it's beautiful, durable and dries incredibly hard.  that said, you have to prep the wood properly, and i think i use 5 coats with a lot of time between.

I choose Waterlox based on lots of research. it's my first time using it. What specifically do you mean by proper prep? I sanded the maple up to 150. I've got 2 coats on so far. The second coat stayed tacky for 24hrs+ and I elected to give it a quick sand with 320 before I put on the 3rd coat. I was only planning on 3 coats. How do you decide when you've got enough coats?
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#24
So how thick or when do you call it quits for a finish build?

Great question and many don’t think about this. I’ve never used Waterlox but I have seen a walnut slab counter top finished with it at a near DIY level. I do remember it being a very hard finish and too much sheen for my liking. The higher sheen worked against the finisher in this case.

Check the can or online info for a wet or dry thickness guide. If you apply pre cat lacquer too thick, you’re more at risk for cracking with wood movement—and that’s a mess. That said, wood movement is different per species. The cheap nitro lacquer was applied too thick on my hard maple cabinets and cracking was occurring in some areas. That’s pretty thick given nitro lacquer isn’t a very hard finish. Flatsawn hard maple isn’t chosen for its stability and a QS wood may not have cracked.

For me, I want enough build or volume for the finish to do it’s job and reflect the desired sheen but I tend to like a close to the wood finish. A traditional wipe on poly could take six coats to reach a desirable thickness. I have a tendency to apply or shoot 1-2 sealer coats and 2 finish coats with almost everything I spray. Some woods are thirstier than others. The idea of one more coat will be even better is not always the best thing. Lots of variables in this equation. A good rule of thumb is to following your gut instinct. Worse case scenario, you can always add another coat later on if needed. Most people aren’t teetering the line towards an encased in plastic bar-top-look anymore. More build doesn’t necessarily equate to more durability. On the other hand, I think everyone has seen or came up one coat short of some type of finish—even wall paint.

Another misconception is “one more coat will make it smoother”. The finish will not be any smoother than it is before you apply the next coat if it’s already been sealed and sanded.

Check with the manufacturer application guidelines. Wet thickness gauges are also available and cheap to buy. Some paint retailers most likely sell or even give them away…..And if all else fails, do a practice finish on scrap.

Hopefully there was at least one take away with all my rambling
Smile


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