02-06-2023, 10:06 AM
Fellas?
Remember when I asked for suggestions on holding our spices in our cabinet? Here's the original thread:
https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.ph...ight=spice
Well, I finished them this weekend. Here are some screenshots. A summary of the build process:
1) I built the cases out of some leftover maple plywood. They're mitered at the corners and there's a spline running the entire length for reinforcement. I covered the exposed plywood (at least on the "show" side) with maple. There's also a recess on the back that holds a 1/4" plywood panel.
2) To make the curved recesses I chucked my 2" (or was it a 2.5"??) Forstner bit in my DP. I then made a vertical jig with holes that were 2" (approx) apart and clamped it to the DP table (an "L" shaped jig).
I then took my 3/4" stock up against the jig and hollowed it out leaving approx 3/8" at the bottom. Then I moved the pin to the next hole down the line and repeated the process. Worked pretty well. Since my DP could only travel 3" vertically, each drawer consists of 3 sections of the hollowed out "poker chip" trays. I then glued 3 sections together paying attention that the ridge between each section lined up. There was some fine adjustment with the pin during the milling process and afterwards and I sanded the concave section with my ROSS. Once 3 sections were glued up I used an old rolling pin SWMBO didn't need, took off the handles and wrapped it with sandpaper. When the 3 sections were glued together I noticed my grooves didn't line up perfectly so the concave section was smooth up and down. That was a bit of sanding and there are still some minute sections where there off a bit, but it is good enough for gov't work.
3) Because we have some spices in square containers, you'll see that on 2 shelves, the outer sections are square bottomed. That was done by simply running the glued up sections over the dado blade to make it flat bottomed. And then those sections were sanded.
4) The racks tilt forward at 4 degrees so I had to make a jig that held the sides at 4 degrees and then they were plowed out with my router.
5) When I glued the fronts on I guess I didn't think it through enough and I was concerned that pulling on the racks with end grain of the slides glued to face grain of the fronts wouldn't be strong enough. In fact, when I took one out of the clamps I could see separation. (I did bevel the bottom of the racks @ 4 degrees to add more glue surface, but it wasn't strong enough. Thus you see where I drilled holed for some maple dowels on the fronts to secure them to the sides. (If I was to do this again, I probably would have gone with a DT on the sides and have it slide up in a DT in the front, stopping it short of the top so it wouldn't be seen.
6) They're not yet screwed to the shelf from the underside because I want SWMBO to "OK" where they sit.
I think I'll rub a little candle was on the runners. They work well now but I want them to be as smooth as a baby's butt.
Have any questions? Let me know and I'll answer them.
Remember when I asked for suggestions on holding our spices in our cabinet? Here's the original thread:
https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.ph...ight=spice
Well, I finished them this weekend. Here are some screenshots. A summary of the build process:
1) I built the cases out of some leftover maple plywood. They're mitered at the corners and there's a spline running the entire length for reinforcement. I covered the exposed plywood (at least on the "show" side) with maple. There's also a recess on the back that holds a 1/4" plywood panel.
2) To make the curved recesses I chucked my 2" (or was it a 2.5"??) Forstner bit in my DP. I then made a vertical jig with holes that were 2" (approx) apart and clamped it to the DP table (an "L" shaped jig).
I then took my 3/4" stock up against the jig and hollowed it out leaving approx 3/8" at the bottom. Then I moved the pin to the next hole down the line and repeated the process. Worked pretty well. Since my DP could only travel 3" vertically, each drawer consists of 3 sections of the hollowed out "poker chip" trays. I then glued 3 sections together paying attention that the ridge between each section lined up. There was some fine adjustment with the pin during the milling process and afterwards and I sanded the concave section with my ROSS. Once 3 sections were glued up I used an old rolling pin SWMBO didn't need, took off the handles and wrapped it with sandpaper. When the 3 sections were glued together I noticed my grooves didn't line up perfectly so the concave section was smooth up and down. That was a bit of sanding and there are still some minute sections where there off a bit, but it is good enough for gov't work.
3) Because we have some spices in square containers, you'll see that on 2 shelves, the outer sections are square bottomed. That was done by simply running the glued up sections over the dado blade to make it flat bottomed. And then those sections were sanded.
4) The racks tilt forward at 4 degrees so I had to make a jig that held the sides at 4 degrees and then they were plowed out with my router.
5) When I glued the fronts on I guess I didn't think it through enough and I was concerned that pulling on the racks with end grain of the slides glued to face grain of the fronts wouldn't be strong enough. In fact, when I took one out of the clamps I could see separation. (I did bevel the bottom of the racks @ 4 degrees to add more glue surface, but it wasn't strong enough. Thus you see where I drilled holed for some maple dowels on the fronts to secure them to the sides. (If I was to do this again, I probably would have gone with a DT on the sides and have it slide up in a DT in the front, stopping it short of the top so it wouldn't be seen.
6) They're not yet screwed to the shelf from the underside because I want SWMBO to "OK" where they sit.
I think I'll rub a little candle was on the runners. They work well now but I want them to be as smooth as a baby's butt.
Have any questions? Let me know and I'll answer them.
Dumber than I appear