Dovetail Drawers for new masterbed room dresser

[Johnny Currado]

I am contemplating of doing some nice dovetail drawers for my custom hand made dresser that is going in my master bedroom.  What wood would be good for these drawers?  Is there a good plywood that would be good for dovetail drawers?  if so, what type and whats the best thickness.  I have done regular poplar before with no issue but these are going to be a big large since they are a drawer for a master bedroom dresser.
Thanks in advance!

[Bill Holt]

For a dresser, I think a solid wood, probably poplar, would be my first choice.  For cabinets, I use 1/2" Baltic Birch.

[Johnny Currado]

For a dresser, I think a solid wood, probably poplar, would be my first choice.  For cabinets, I use 1/2" Baltic Birch.

thanks Bill!  I have used poplar before but my concern was how high they might be.  how do you avoid blowout in 1/2” baltic birch?

[Willyou]

I recently completed a chest of drawers using white oak 1/2" thick. No problems except they are quite heavy. I don't think there would be any issue using poplar. If your concern is warping, make the drawer sides and backs by gluing up from narrower strips. This will make them more stable. I think any plywood will be more subject to blow-out as compared to solid wood if you are using router and jig to cut the DTs. If you are cutting by hand this would be less of a problem, but care would still be needed. IMO, using plywood would be less "classy" if that is of any importance.

[Tapper]

Depends on the result you are seeking. Are you going to hand cut the dovetails or use a jig? Plywood is typically not used for fine furniture. If you're looking for a more finished look, clear maple would be something I'd seriously consider.

Doug

[fredhargis]

I'd probably pass on the plywood. Maple would be real nice and probably not much costlier than poplar (which would be my second choice).

[jteneyck]

I would not use plywood, even Baltic birch, with dovetails.  It is easily damaged by the router cutters with those sharp corners, and the material is rough on a handsaw should you choose to hand cut them.  Baltic birch is great for finger jointed drawers though, and that's my preferred way of making drawers on most projects.  For high end stuff, though, I'm with others here.  Solid wood just looks better.  Maple is my preferred choice, but poplar or even your project wood is fine.  I've seen lots of drawers from Becksvoort in cherry.  

For anything except exceptionally large drawers I think 1/2" stock just looks better than thick stuff.  Even on really large drawers, I don't think I've ever used anything thicker than 5/8".  You can use solid wood bottoms if you prefer, but I like maple plywood because you can glue it into the drawer box w/o expansion/contraction concerns, and that makes for an incredibly strong and rigid drawer.   For wide drawers I add a stiffener at mid span to support the bottom, which typically is 1/4" thick, but I've used 1/2" on occasion for an extra beefy feel.  

John

[KC]

thanks Bill!  I have used poplar before but my concern was how high they might be.  how do you avoid blowout in 1/2” baltic birch?

I wasn't able to avoid it the couple times I tried to use it with a router and jig.

[Bill Holt]

thanks Bill!  I have used poplar before but my concern was how high they might be.  how do you avoid blowout in 1/2” baltic birch?

I do hand cut dove tails using an inexpensive pull saw; blowout has never been an issue.

[Bob Vaughan]

Big drawers should have stout sides and backs.  1/2" thick is great for little drawers, but 5/8 to 3/4 thickness would be best.  For a species recommendation, consider something hard enough that won't deflect or compress during lateral stresses when the drawer is opened.  Having the sides the same species as the front always looks good.  For a cost consideration, think about red oak.  It would be a lot cheaper than say cherry or walnut.