I needed to mill a 1" roundover on some molding with a big old Makita plunge router dedicated to a R.T. station. One handy improvement it got years ago was replacing the aux. switch box with a 4" box extension. There's a switch on the front and a switch and a (split) duplex receptacle on the back. In addition to allowing me to use the vac without the router, it also lets me turn off the power to the router with 3 separate switches. To stay safe, I make a conscious effort to make sure all 3 are off before changing bits. I don't think I can accidently turn on all 3. What I can do is fight to get the right bit height when the plunge function is sticking. Then I turn on all 3 switches and it's loud! Much louder than normal. (Picture this) I jump back, drop to the floor, and crawl back and hit the main switch. When the noise stopped, I stood up to see a bunch of shinny sh** on the table. Seems the plunge function works well with a little vibration added. Note to self; engage the depth lock when you finally get the right bit height. I guess I can manage without template guides on this router.

I've got a couple of windows with some rot in the sash so I'm going to take a stab at making replacements. Looking for recommendations on wood species to use.

I am finishing up what I consider an odd sized table.  It is 5' x 5' out of 1 3/8" thick walnut.  Heavy top, so heavy that since I work by myself, I had to design a apparatus to move and flip the top over.

The schrinkulator calculates an 1" of movement if I put in the high value of 12% and the low value of 6".  I would think that would be the extremes or at least I hope so!

I was going to use figure eights to fasten the top to the apron but I am concern that figure eights would not handle that much possible movement.  Thoughts?

The base is 35" x 35" with 5" x 5" legs and 2" x 5" aprons.  I was only going to put the figure eights parallel to the grain.  Would it be a mistake not the attach the sides of the table to the base in some way?  Once again, there is a potential of a considerable amount of movement.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Toney

My cousin’s daughter used “Amish wood milk” to clean an antique oak coffee table.
The stuff turned the wood gray. A quick google says Wiid Milk is vegetable oil and vinegar. Another Google tells me distilled vinegar will stain oak gray.
I suspect the table did not have a substantial finish, allowing the vinegar to react with the wood.

So….. how to restore the typical antique look to the table?
I am thinking oxialic acid to reduce the gray, then golden oak stain and some sort of top coat. Arm-R-Seal?

Hey there all.  I am building a side table that Richard at The English Woodworker does in a video series.  I am really enjoying the build with my daughter (it is her final project for a class that she has in called "Forgotten Crafts".  She had the choice of another accounting or statistics class, or a humanities class where she has learned to tap maple trees for sap to make syrup, baking, ax sharpening, knitting, and some basic woodworking.  Her professor said that for such an ambitious final project, she can accept help from anyone willing to give it to her.)  

Anyway, when I am planing the edge of a board (these boards for this table are all either 3/4" or 7/8" on edge), I seem to always plane a slope into the edge the slopes down towards me.  I am using either a No. 5 or 7 plane for this, with no camber on either of the blades.  I place the plane dead center on the edge, and plane away. I am getting full width shavings, but after a few passes I can see that I am higher on the back side of the edge than the front side.  I am able to correct this by offsetting the plane towards the high side, and bringing that side down to meet the front edge, but there has to be something that I am doing wrong that I would like to figure out and correct.  

So, any idea what I am doing wrong and how I can fix it?  I am 100% self taught on this stuff, with YouTube, forum posts, and a few books serving as my instructors.  

Any and all input is greatly appreciated.  

Thanks.
Joe

VCU Hand and Power Tool Safety Program guide

Academia edu may require opening a free account to down load.

I get occasional emails from them for woodworking related articles and frequent emails about articles related to my work.

The links to woodworking articles did not start until the first time that I downloaded one.

Missing on most of the Stanley mitre boxes found in the wild, this reproduction trip clamp will fit and perform perfectly. It is investment cast from 304 stainless steel.

It is priced at $38 plus shipping and is available from Loon Lake Tool Works.

   

Been trying some coloring lately. This was an attempt at a sunburst. I don't remember the type of wood, maybe Cottenwood? It was a small burl I bought several years ago. 

Colored with Aikido dye, lacquer finish.

   

   

Several accessories were made for the Dewalt 925 RAS.  There was a molding head guard, for sure.  The right end of the motor arbor is threaded, and I suspect there must have been a chuck that fit onto it for drills and/or router bits.  Perhaps there were more, as well.  If anyone has any accessories, or knows someone who does, I'm interested in buying them.  Thanks. 

John

Off topic post about watches crossed over to clocks, and I though I'd post up one of my most favorite projects.  I built this clock case/shelf (mesquite) sometime around 1998 I think.  Hermle movement from Woodcraft that I've done absolutely nothing to other than blowing the dust off a couple times when moving it.  It keeps good time, losing maybe a minute a week.  Built it specifically with the David Winter cottages in mind.  We've had it for so many years that I don't always notice the chime (hour count and half hour only), but every time I do it makes me happy... and reminds me to be grateful I have the ability to work wood, and thankful for the people I've 'known' because of that.  Wife mentioned the other day that I probably oughta show her how to wind it.  26 years and she's never done it.