| crokett™ |
| (On his own list now) |
| 08/11/12 10:22 PM |
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Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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My FIL has volunteered to build the driveway pillars this fall when they get back. I need to provide the design. I am going to pour footings, then the construction will be concrete block with brick veneer. I will put rebar in the footings and have my FIL set the bottom course of block over the rebar then fill the centers with concrete. For the bricks, should they be attached to the block with anything more than mortar? Maybe those corrugated metal straps at the mortar joint? Also, how to keep the pillars level across the driveway? I will make sure the footings are poured level and level to each other as best I can. I want to include a planter in the pillars. What is the best way to get drainage holes for water? Add PVC pipe? Leave weep holes at the mortar joints of the brick?
| JR_ |
| (Honored Veteran) |
| 08/12/12 07:14 AM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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My neighbor put a couple brick pillars at the end of his driveway. One sits one course lower than the other. Drive me nuts
I can't help but look at it when I drive by. Sticks out like a sore thumb.
I would thing a string level would help maintain their symmetry.
| thooks |
| (Moderator) |
| 08/12/12 10:23 AM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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A real mason would use a laser level to get the footings the same elevation. Then he would put up some batter boards, at least one set that stretches across the driveway to establish coursing and correct height.
He would also use the proper brick ties from each mortar course on the block.
And yes, weep holes would be the correct procedure.
| woodturner9 |
| (Member) |
| 08/12/12 12:19 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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crokett™ said:
For the bricks, should they be attached to the block with anything more than mortar?
BIA has a number of tech reports that explain in detail how to do all these things. This one discusses brick veneer over wood framing , which is similar to what you want to do.
| daveferg |
| (member) |
| 08/12/12 12:35 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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What about putting in brick ties between your concrete block as constructed---that should give you ties to the mortar lines of the brick, every few courses. Pretty simple---essentially just metal strips.
| GHR |
| (Member) |
| 08/12/12 01:30 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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Perhaps you could go out and examine similar work in progress.
A lot of walls are put up around here with cinder block cores and rock or brick facings. I never paid much attention to the datails, but just driving by and paying attention I am sure would show common practice.
I am not sure if ties are necessary. Not even sure they need to be the same elevation.
| blindrid |
| (Member) |
| 08/12/12 04:59 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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daveferg said:
What about putting in brick ties between your concrete block as constructed---that should give you ties to the mortar lines of the brick, every few courses. Pretty simple---essentially just metal strips.
Exactly what I would do. Why make it difficult?
| crokett™ |
| (On his own list now) |
| 08/12/12 08:08 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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daveferg said:
What about putting in brick ties between your concrete block as constructed---that should give you ties to the mortar lines of the brick, every few courses. Pretty simple---essentially just metal strips.
I'm not a real mason. I was either thinking string or a laser level. I will use the laser level to get the footings level with each other. After that I am thinking build one of the pillars then use string and stakes to keep the other one level to the first one.
That's what I was thinking. I didn't know the name of them. I have some brick ties somewhere. I have no idea why I have them, more than likely I got em for a project I planned but never did.
for the planters I will do weep holes and have concrete at the bottom sloped towards the weep holes.
| theeviltwinn |
| (No Action Here but not for lack of trying) |
| 08/13/12 07:18 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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Brick and block mortar joints don't always line up. Not all brick are modular. They make ties, both adjustable and non adjustable, for tying brick and block together
http://www.h-b.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=93_77_2
They are usually spec'd every 16" or 24" verticle but it wouldn't hurt every course.
Twinn
| JR_ |
| (Honored Veteran) |
| 08/14/12 07:28 AM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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Learned a new word today, thanks...
Quote:
Wythe
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For other uses, see Wythe (disambiguation).
A wythe is a continuous vertical section of masonry one unit in thickness. A wythe may be independent of, or interlocked with, the adjoining wythe(s). A single wythe of brick that is not structural in nature is referred to as a veneer.
A multiple-wythe masonry wall may be composed of a single type of masonry unit layered to increase its thickness and structural strength, or different masonry units chosen by function, such as an economical concrete block serving a structural purpose and a more expensive brick chosen for its appearance.
| crokett™ |
| (On his own list now) |
| 08/14/12 09:31 AM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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I have some of that - the mason left it when he laid the brick foundation for the new room. I also have a can somewhere of straps that are corrugated, about 3" long and 3/4" or so wide. I was going to use those.
| mike4244 |
| (Member) |
| 08/14/12 01:53 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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How high are the columns? If over 3'-0" high then brick ties would be a good idea. A water level will suffice to level from column to column.Even a straight 2x and level will work if the distance is less than 16'-0".
Weep holes below grade will drain water to the soil.
Old timers used pieces of greased rope laid in the mortar joint for weep holes and pulled them out when convenient.Any small diameter pipe will do, no grease, just give the pipe a twist after the mortar starts to set.Then pull out if you are sure the mortar is dry enough.Rarely need more than 1 hour even in cool weather.
If you have to buy rebar,it isn't necessary unless your columns are large. An 8" deep footing 4" larger than the column on each side is the minimum. Example, 24" square column - add 4" to each side and you have a footing 32"x8".Each footing in the example needs about 5to 6 cubic ft of concrete.If I recall ,one bag makes 1 cf.
mike
| crokett™ |
| (On his own list now) |
| 08/14/12 03:40 PM |
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Re: Tying Brick Veneer To Concrete Block
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Here the frost line is considered to be 12". After 18 winters here I have never seen it past about 3". Last year I don't think the ground ever froze. I was going to put the footings down 16" but based on your minimum I will probably go to 12". I haven't decided on height yet but probably somewhere around 4'. I am planning to construct them so I have 2 concrete blocks per course, then wrap that in brick - so whatever those dimensions are. Each one is gonna be shaped like an L lying on its back. The planter will be in the horizontal and my wife has requested lights on the top.