MichaelMouse
Member
Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 8125
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Phydeaux said:
I had a Craftsman table saw with a sloppy miter gauge. The slot was also an odd shape and size so upgrade was somewhere between not possible and not worth it. I got a good tip from a book.
Tip from another book. Take a punch and dimple along the length periodically to get a good fit. works a treat, since the slide is usually real soft, malleable steel.
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Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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OneDayJD
Member
Registered: 03/15/11
Posts: 36
Loc: South Carolina
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MichaelMouse said:
Phydeaux said:
I had a Craftsman table saw with a sloppy miter gauge. The slot was also an odd shape and size so upgrade was somewhere between not possible and not worth it. I got a good tip from a book.
Tip from another book. Take a punch and dimple along the length periodically to get a good fit. works a treat, since the slide is usually real soft, malleable steel.
Just so I'm clear on this...is the reason for dimpling it to sort of push the sides out more and make the runner a fraction wider for a better fit? I just like to understand the how and why. Thanks again.
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Pity the last man standing, for he will have nothing to bargin with and everyone against him.
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Axl
Member
Registered: 06/30/08
Posts: 700
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badwhiskey said:
A decent Freud combo blade will do most of what you want.
+1 A Freud combo is my goto blade.
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OneDayJD
Member
Registered: 03/15/11
Posts: 36
Loc: South Carolina
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Also, just so I'm clear...someone said something about different size blades. My TS uses a 10" blade I believe (at the office right now so it's not in front of me). So with that said, I could use something smaller, like a 7 1/4", etc., right? I know I will lose depth on my cuts, but if I am just using it for plywood and other smaller stuff it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks.
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Pity the last man standing, for he will have nothing to bargin with and everyone against him.
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toolie
Member
Registered: 03/25/05
Posts: 1819
Loc: westchester cnty, NY
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OneDayJD said:
MichaelMouse said:
Phydeaux said:
I had a Craftsman table saw with a sloppy miter gauge. The slot was also an odd shape and size so upgrade was somewhere between not possible and not worth it. I got a good tip from a book.
Tip from another book. Take a punch and dimple along the length periodically to get a good fit. works a treat, since the slide is usually real soft, malleable steel.
Just so I'm clear on this...is the reason for dimpling it to sort of push the sides out more and make the runner a fraction wider for a better fit? I just like to understand the how and why. Thanks again.
exactly. i don't recall if the metal tape was also mentioned, but that's another way to "widen" the miter bar, again assuming a conventinal 3/4" x 3/8" miter slot.
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there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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OneDayJD
Member
Registered: 03/15/11
Posts: 36
Loc: South Carolina
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I think (*think*) the miter slots are about 5/8". I did a quick look last night and think that's what it was. I think I am going to try the metal tape first just so I don't bang it too much with the hammer and mess it up too bad. At least with the tape if I make it too wide for the slots I can pull tape off.
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Pity the last man standing, for he will have nothing to bargin with and everyone against him.
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Axl
Member
Registered: 06/30/08
Posts: 700
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OneDayJD said:
Also, just so I'm clear...someone said something about different size blades. My TS uses a 10" blade I believe (at the office right now so it's not in front of me).
You don't know what size your TS is? 
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OneDayJD
Member
Registered: 03/15/11
Posts: 36
Loc: South Carolina
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Axl said:
OneDayJD said:
Also, just so I'm clear...someone said something about different size blades. My TS uses a 10" blade I believe (at the office right now so it's not in front of me).
You don't know what size your TS is?
No, I do know. 10"
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Pity the last man standing, for he will have nothing to bargin with and everyone against him.
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berone
Member
Registered: 01/16/05
Posts: 4147
Loc: Peekskill, NY
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Axl said:
OneDayJD said:
Also, just so I'm clear...someone said something about different size blades. My TS uses a 10" blade I believe (at the office right now so it's not in front of me).
You don't know what size your TS is?
Hey, hey- he's new. Don't scare him off yet!
Here, newbie, newbie, newbie... nothing to be afraid of... we're all nice, civil people here...
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Anthony
Disposable income? Is that what I pour into the house?
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PaulC
Member
Registered: 07/16/06
Posts: 555
Loc: Deep River Ontario
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Almost all modern table saws use 10" blades (drilled for a 5/8" arbor), unless you get into large commercial models.
Using a smaller blade isn't a bad idea, because:
1) you might save a few bucks on the blade,
2) it'll probably cut a thinner kerf and put less strain on the motor, and
3) smaller blades are more stiff, and suffer less from arbor runout or flutter (all other things being equal).
Having said that, I'd buy a 10" blade, because:
1) the difference in price will be small,
2) thin-kerf 10" blades are fine unless you are putting really thick lumber through,
3) if blade vibration is a problem, you have other problems, and
4) your guard is set up to be in the right position relative to a 10" blade.
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Good judgement is the product of experience.
Experience is the product of poor judgement.
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