Ken Vick
Member
Registered: 06/12/06
Posts: 3108
Loc: Niagara Falls, Ontario
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I have a beautiful 1940s Delta disc sander that I bought from a member here a couple years ago. I had the motor completely refurbished at a motor shop and it worked fine when I loaded my tools on the Uhaul truck to move to Canada a year and a half ago. Since then I have been occupied with building and organizing my shop here. I have a project coming up that requires a disc sander but when I switched it on now, nothing happens. The disc spins freely when you manually spin it but it doesn't hum or try to start in any way. I took the switch cover off to make sure that there wasn't a loose wire in the switch box but saw nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to trouble shoot it before I head to a motor shop? Thanks. Ken
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Bob10
Sir Member
Registered: 04/03/07
Posts: 17941
Loc: San Francisco Bay Area
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Any chance there is a reset switch on the motor?
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Know what, Bob? You win. CharlieD, 4/21/2008
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Rick_B
Member
Registered: 02/25/03
Posts: 3502
Loc: Memphis, NY
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Hey Ken - I am in the middle of tearing apart the motor from a 1940 apart. It is a 1/2 HP 110/220 single phase Westinghouse motor made for Delta. My motor has a terminal box in the electrical end bell that has an access plate. Under that cover there are 4 wires that you could check the connections on. The back side of that board has an additional 4 wires but you can't access them without pulling the end bell off. Your motor may be completely different but thought I'd at least give you something to look for.
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Rick
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gregr
Member
Registered: 06/01/06
Posts: 815
Loc: Omaha, NE
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Ken, does your motor have a capacitor can on top? If not, then it is probably a repulsion start induction run motor. If there is an access plate on the top of one of the motor endbells and no capacitor blister, then it is almost certainly an R-I motor.
Each type will/may require different trouble shooting techniques with the exception of loose connecting wires.
Please provide more information.
Greg
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
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Ken Vick
Member
Registered: 06/12/06
Posts: 3108
Loc: Niagara Falls, Ontario
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Bob10 said:
Any chance there is a reset switch on the motor?
Bob, I can't find a reset switch. Ken
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Ken Vick
Member
Registered: 06/12/06
Posts: 3108
Loc: Niagara Falls, Ontario
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Rick and Gregr, the motor was made by Marathon (120/240V). It has a capacitor which was replaced when I had the motor refurbished before my move. The motor has probably much less than an hourof run time since the capacitor was replaced. I removed the plate at the end of the motor and the visible board had 2 wires with what looked like good connections. Ken
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Barry
Member
Registered: 02/07/01
Posts: 6954
Loc: New Rochelle, NY
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Bad switch? Bad plug? Bad line cord? Can you check the voltage at the motor wires?
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Itshardtoputspacesinbetweenyourwordswithouttheuseofyourthumbs
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Rick_B
Member
Registered: 02/25/03
Posts: 3502
Loc: Memphis, NY
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Barry right - start with the easy stuff - is the outlet working, check voltage at the incoming side of the switch then check it on the outgoing side of the switch.
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Rick
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MichaelMouse
Member
Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 8332
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Rick_B said:
Barry right - start with the easy stuff - is the outlet working, check voltage at the incoming side of the switch then check it on the outgoing side of the switch.
Ohm the windings, test the capacitor once you know there's juice on the other side of the switch. If you haven't experience in capacitors, find someone who does. Does it smell like road tar in there?
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Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Delta007
Honored Veteran
Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 5874
Loc: Murfreesboro, TN
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Even if the cap is bad/burnt- you'd get some humming.
No humming means no power is getting to the windings...
Start at the outlet with a volt meter..
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One day, Chuck Norris ordered two pizzas to go. They went.
http://toolsmartz.blogspot.com/
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Ken Vick
Member
Registered: 06/12/06
Posts: 3108
Loc: Niagara Falls, Ontario
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Ok, I took the switch out and checked the voltage on the incoming side and got zero volts so looks like I have a bad power cord. I have never seen seen a power cord fail so completely. Would have expected intermitent rather than complete failure. I'll replace the cord and see if that fixes things. Thanks. Ken
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Delta007
Honored Veteran
Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 5874
Loc: Murfreesboro, TN
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Yoo-Hoo... CHECK the ooutlet.
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One day, Chuck Norris ordered two pizzas to go. They went.
http://toolsmartz.blogspot.com/
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Ken Vick
Member
Registered: 06/12/06
Posts: 3108
Loc: Niagara Falls, Ontario
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The outlet is OK. Ken
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skizzo
Member
Registered: 07/26/05
Posts: 4932
Loc: San Jose
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I always start on the motor side and work towards the outlet. Find the leads coming from the motor into the switchbox and disconnect there. Wire up a direct connection between the leads and a power cord that plugs into the outlet. An extension cord with one end cut off and wires stripped back will work, with the motor powering on/off when you plug in the cord to the outlet. Ground your test wiring, and make sure the motor can't jump when it starts. I have a little rig set up with alligator clips and a switch built in for testing motors, but properly wire-nutting and taping the connection will work. Anyways, I find it easier to start with seeing whether the motor runs, bypassing all the other electrical.
If the motor does start up when hard-wired to a test cord, then reconnect the existing cord (which it sounds like you think is the problem). Finally, if it does still run correctly, then mount the switch in-line. More often than not in a situation like yours, my experience has been a failed switch... perhaps just a loose wire, often a bad switch. But you have to isolate the problem, and that starts by taking it one component at a time.
Good luck.
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Bill
Know, think, choose, do -- Ender's Shadow
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Rick Christopherson
Member
Registered: 02/26/05
Posts: 2994
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Edit: Oops. Didn't see your last post.Ken Vick said:
Blah...Blah....I loaded my tools on the Uhaul truck....Blah...Blah....but it doesn't hum or try to start...Blah....Blah... 
Start with the obvious. You're not getting power to the motor. You've already checked the switch for loose connections, so look next in the motor's junction box. Oh, don't forget to check the leads inside the power cord's plug.
A volt meter would help narrow this down the easiest, if you have one.
If you are not finding a loose connection (and don't have a volt meter), then start bypassing components to look for a failure. I would first jumper across the switch contacts. If that doesn't work, then carefully rewire the power cord directly to the motor junction box. If you still don't get any hum from the motor at that point, then you know it is internal to the motor.
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My website is no longer under AT&T. I have moved my website to http://www.waterfront-woods.com
Also, the Multi-position Guide Stop is at http://www.dominoguide.com
Edited by Rick Christopherson (08/18/12 01:49 PM)
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Ken Vick
Member
Registered: 06/12/06
Posts: 3108
Loc: Niagara Falls, Ontario
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I replaced the power cord and it works perfectly. No sign of damage at all to the old cord but there was a break in one of the wires somewhere in it. Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. Ken
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