Thoughts from RAS rippers
#11
I'm wanting to rip a few "landscape timbers" (2 3/4" thick)
Using a Dewalt 7790, 12" ras.
Other than putting the blade guard/shroud, down, to prevent stock from lifting, and a featherboard to prevent kickback, any tips, or techniques?
Besides a sharp blade, and feeding the correct direction.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#12
Use a band saw. If you don't have one, go find one. I wouldn't have the nerve to try what you're thinking about doing.
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#13
It one of the few operations I have scars from. Kick back from ripping on a RAS. It was a crappy Craftsman RAS, but I sold it and have no intentions of ever using one again.

Keep out of the line of fire and use the anti-kick back pawls if you have them. I'm sure it will work out fine. Just be careful and aware.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets. 

"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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#14
Remember that a RAS requires using a blade with more teeth for ripping than a TS, to be safe (roughly twice the number of teeth, but no less than 40 teeth), you cannot safely use a TS ripping blade on a RAS for ripping, its too aggressive. That means that ripping will be much slower than on a TS. Don't forget to set the rip pawl properly (DeWalt's recommendation is for the tip of the pawls, with the pawls hanging loosely not touching the board to be cut, hang below the top of the board by 1/8" so that when they are riding on the board during the rip cut, they in the proper position to dig in deep enough to keep the board in place should a kickback occur).

I won't say that I rip 2x4's all the time, but I do have an occasion to rip them using my DeWalt MBF and with a Craftsman 9", 40T GP blade (my rip blade for the MBF), it does a decent job. It is a slow operation, never tried anything as thick as you are looking to rip, of course my MBF probably would not have the power to do it.

Good luck,
Paul
Paul
They were right, I SHOULDN'T have tried it at home!
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#15
Forgot to mention using a push board (not stick).

Paul
Paul
They were right, I SHOULDN'T have tried it at home!
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#16
My scariest kickback ever happened while ripping a thick board on a RAS, back in the day when it was my only stationary power tool. ( maybe 40 years ago ). There is still a mark on the back wall of the shop to remind me, and I am only here today because I was standing to the side of the line of fire.
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#17
pprobus said:


.... you cannot safely use a TS ripping blade on a RAS for ripping, its too aggressive.

operation, never tried anything as thick as you are looking to rip, of course my MBF probably would not have the power to do it.

Good luck,
Paul




Read that sentence again, you do not want to use a TS ripping blade!
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
After you run the first one I doubt you'll still want to rip them on your RAS. Even a skill saw is a better choice based on my experience.
RD
------------------------------------------------------------------
"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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#19
Yeah, I think the band saw would be a better bet.
Recently got the ras, and am getting carried away wanting to use it!
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#20
Putting the blade guard down will not stop it from lifting. It will slow it down, but 1.5 HP will overcome the blade guard hold downs.

I used to put a shim in the kerf as soon as there was enough kerf pass the blade. I ripped on a RAS for years, with little problem. HOWEVER, I was luck on those occasions when I did have a problem.
I tried not believing.  That did not work, so now I just believe
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