WoodNet Forums: Talk about ways to cut down sheet goods

As stated in the title "Talk about ways to cut down sheet goods" Add to it, drop pics, share experiences, thoughts, etc. Maybe a learning tool for the Noobs, or possibly a thought or 3 for anyone looking into this subject.

A recent thread about The newest track saws to come to market, the DeWalt to go up against the tested Festool, well it got off course from just that topic, but it opened a bit about other ways for someone to cut down sheet goods for projects.

Thread

From that thread I got to thinking a post of many ways to skin a cat, and at a bunch of different price points. Lets face it not everyone here has the same budget for tool/toy expenditure.

Second from that, why do you need a guide at all? Is it to cut down sheet goods to smaller, more manageable sizes, then take them to the TS for final trimming? If so do we need a guide? Couldn`t we just make a line, snap chalk, and just cut freehand to a size appx 1/4 over what we need. Ok point taken, we need/want a fresh, straight edge to put against the TS`s fence to then cut the panel square and accurate, so some guide is a good thing, yes???

First on the track saws. Glen Huey has a nice, albeit undecided review of the 3 track saws: Festool, DeWalt, Makita in the most recent Popular Woodworking (#175 April 2009). His end point is they all make appx the same cuts, and it will be features that are available on each model, and brand name favoritism that will make the buying decision for each individual. This method works as a quick, easy way to cut down sheet goods, and can be used on solid materials too, though it seems sheet goods is what most people talk about them for. I tried the new DeWalt last fall, and liked it a bunch, my time before that with a Festool always left me feeling it was awkward? Go figure. Until reading the article in Pop WW I wasn`t aware Makita was in the race. Look for appx $500.00 for the saw and a track of somewhere around 50" for all three. With all 3 other accessories are available. Some woodworkers with limited space are opting out of a TS and just using these guided saws. If so $500.00 for a VERY accurate, and portable TS is a steal. Many here with both have voiced they will also keep their TS.

Another store bough guide was mentioned, the ez system. Several here posted how happy they are with this middle priced alternative to the track saws, which actually give you a saw in the appx $500.00 price. The EZ is just a track guide that you mount your CS onto, and supposedly it becomes a Festool wannabe. I cannot add to the list of positive reviewers. I`ve not owned one, but a friend of mine bought one when they first hit market, and his thoughts are it was, and still is his worst expenditure of funds on a woodworking tool, item, jig, etc etc. I played with it a few times , and my thought was it had a lot more flex in it than I liked, (whimpy), and this added to the problem, while taking it from the box? shipping container, it had bent, due to how lightweight it was. My friend grew tired of playing with it, pitched it, and for a while just went back to basics, until he bought a Festool a few years ago. He`s been real happy with it`s performance. Now that said, maybe this EZ deal has been re-worked, re-made. I don`t know, but perusing the site I`m just left feeling it`s a lot more than the other fixes I`m about to show, and I don`t know if it`s much faster for the money.

"$158.95 The SGS-50 is the answer to the difficult cross cuts and trimming cuts up to 50"

through

"$471.95 For the extra long straight line rip cuts and joining long boards without the need of expensive equipment". Hmmmmm it cuts up to 200", but it doesn`t come with a saw, so wondering which expensive equipment you don`t need

Next in line, also store bought, and getting into my price structure, (even better pricing if you score them hardly used at auction

, of course same could be said off all shown here)

Several to choose from, most seem very similar. As it`s worked out the ones I got are Pro Grip line found here

What I`ll refer to as the Blue line, found Rockler, and I think WoodCraft

Boomers

Possibly others exist, I`m not aware of them, but it seems to be a big market, cutting guides, edge guides, etc. What is similar here is they all clamp to the workpiece, all have at least one t-track type groove to mount other clamps, jigs and fixtures to, and offer a raised edge to use as a cutting guide, something to run a CS, router, jigsaw against. These clamps also offer a growing line of add ons that make them more self squaring, easier to align your saws blade to where you want to cut, sleds that run in the aforementioned t slots, and much more.

Never one to keep opinions to myself I`ll state I`ve toyed with the one sled type I`ve seen actually attached at a WW show. I think they keep them unattached because attached you see first hand how much slop and wiggle is found in between a t-track, and the toilet bolt that is running inside the t track. This means a truly straight line with the sled is less possible than just running your tool alongside the clamp itself. However if you are not able to keep the tool FIRMLY against the side of the clamp, well, a little wobble might be a good thing for you. You know your own abilities, buy accordingly.

From there they have other guides to help square the clamp to the plywood it`s being clamped to, and also a cut guide that once cut through gives you a reference point in setting the clamp for future cuts.

I`m not sure here, as all I`m using are the pro grip variety, they come with 2 tap holes in the clamp heads on the clamp already, not sure if this carries over to blue, and Boomer, but I`m betting they might also have them. If you do have the 2 holes. Roll your own self aligners, and cut guides all in one.

If it does all you need are screws and some easy to make pieces. Whatever size you like, just make sure they are uniform thickness, or you will be making angled cuts, and then drill for size to match the 2 holes. Make sure to allow enough size to the right of the clamp for what you need to make a cut through the wood. Counterbore the holes so the screw heads are not sticking out.

cut guide/squaring edge shown attached

Ready to make 1st cut through. Placing your CS firmly against the clamps edge just start making your cut. After the first cut you now have a quick set guide to show you where to place the clamp. Just line up the edge of the cut guide up to your line to mark where you want to cut, and clamp. Makes things quick, easy and accurate, especially so if just making fast cuts to break down sheet goods for finish cuts on the TS. If you want to use these cuts as finish cuts, do your sawing on top of a thick piece of pink foam insulation, and remember to apply a line of blue painters/quick release tape over the top side of the cut line. Doing this will give you a splinter free edge. I suggest using a good quality plywood/veneer cutting blade on your CS for best cuts. Also make sure after clamping to check both ends of the clamp to make sure your cut IS going to be on the money. This last just needed if you do NOT plan to make final cuts on TS.

Don`t have a pro grip, or blue line type clamp, Boomer anyone? It`s ok, looking at your local scrap yard might net you some nice bar stock, comes in Aluminum, and mild steel. That and a couple of clamps can make an accurate cutting guide.

Comes in many lengths, widths and thicknesses.

Don`t want to spend so much $$$$, but you say you have some scrap ply, and a few good straight boards.

Whew, yeah I`m wordy, sorry.

Ok add on folks, hope the pics help anyone with the clamp guides to make their own cut guides, and squaring edges. If you`re an EZ system fan, sorry it was a call made long ago, and I`ve not seen wording to change my thoughts about the original model on the website, so original model thoughts stand because they are about the ez system I know.

--------------------
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

Steve