WoodNet Forums: Picture frames, step by step

There was a recent Woodnet post asking about methods of making picture frames. Here is one way. I hope some others pig-pile on with their methods.

I start by cutting my stock to size. I have a spreadsheet that tells me how long the sides need to be, based on the size of my photo, the width of the mat, width of the frame, etc.

My standard dimensions are 1" wide and a tick over 3/4" thick. But I like a slender frame.

Make more than one while you are set up for it!

Lay out the pieces until you are pleased with the way that grain mates up with grain. Then mark the orientations in whatever unambiguous way works for you. While you're at it, make sure you know which way is up. You don't want to flip a board upside down after you've cut your miters. Why not? The fit will be close, but....

The next few steps can be done in almost any order. I say almost because you do want to think it through. If you are going heavily contour the frame, you might lose a flat surface that you need for registration on a subsequent routing operation. That's no fun.

In order to be really really really sure I know up from down (that's one "really" away from total certainty, but it's close!), I cut the channel that will take the photo stack (viz: glass, mat board, photo, and foam core). I like to use a rabetting bit set 1/2" above the table. This is enough (but oh boy, just barely enough) to fit the stack with a double mat.

Cut in a series of passes. I move the fence repeatedly until I have cut 3/8".

I put a small radius on the outside, not a huge round, but just a small softening. I like to do this now, rather than after the miters have been cut. Why? Let's just say a square leading edge gives a friendlier introduction of wood to roundover bit than a pointy one does.

Now to cut the miters. A simple jig. You've probably seen it before. A 90 degree guide screwed down as close to 45 degrees to the blade as possible.

Some miter sleds have stops at the far end of of the jig, sticking way out. That never made sense to me. I do this instead: one stop on either side of the blade. Set the left stop to the exact width of a frame member.

Now introduce the piece to be mitered on the right. (Remember to do each piece face up, or face down, but don't mix the two!) Make sure it hits the left stop.

Cut. (By the way, I put clamps on my jig but never use them).

Cut the remaining 4 left corners. Now set the right stop, and repeat on the other side, for the other 4 corners.

Check the fit. Should be perfect.

Final shaping. For me, a straight slope on the inside top.

Profile is complete.

Glue and clamp. A threaded rod clamp would be nice, but I don't have one. A strap clamp works nicely. I use Titebond.

When the glue dries, cut the slots for the corner splines. Splines constitute just one of many ways to strengthen the corners, which badly need it, as they are essentially end grain glue joints.

Simplest fixture in the world. If you don't have a tenon jig, make something that slides along your fence.

Cut a slot in each corner.

Make spline stock. Glue an oversized piece in each corner. Set the grain direction perpendicular to the miter joint.

When the glue dries, use your favorite flush cut saw to trim the excess. Follow this with your favorite bubinga block plane to get it flush.

If you do hand plane it down, plane inwards. Or don't, and savor your corner blowout. Been there.

Nice.

Sand. Finish. Add hangers, if hangers you must have. I like this type.

Note: see the metal tabs that hold the foam core in place? They are framing points. I do my own matting, and own the point shooter. It is not cheap. You can use brads, I hear, or have your local frame shop shoot 'em in for you.

Hang and enjoy!

The end. Nothing more to see here, folks!

Edited by Aram (06/13/12 09:27 AM)