Richard D.
Off his rocker
Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 6307
Loc: Los Angeles
|
|
Post deleted by Richard D.
-------------------- RD
|
Bøb
Member
Registered: 10/13/06
Posts: 1296
Loc: S.E. Tennessee
|
|
Richard D. said:
But whatever you do, don't mix oil and varnish on your own because that REALLY tick's off some members who want to dictate what answers are allowed! 
It's really amazing how you can just continue to try to drag someone into an argument, without any regard whatsoever to the topic at hand. Once again ... not gonna take the bait, so you can just give it up, my friend.
-------------------- Now let us retract the foreskin of misconception and apply the wire brush of enlightenment.
|
John Walkowiak
Member
Registered: 10/29/07
Posts: 89
Loc: Mpls. MN
|
|
I use Minwax Antique Oil quite a lot, and have for many years. I consider it a wiping varnish. I often use it over shellac. I use the shellac as a toner and to build. I then rub it with 4 0000 steel wool and apply the Antique Oil as directed. I do this because it has a lower sheen than shellac and offers more resistance to spills than shellac, should the piece need that. One could use it as a first coat, to "pop" the grain as so many do with BLO. Unlike BLO it does dry quickly. Then use shellac to build and add color, then topcoat that with the Antique Oil for more protection. It is a very versitile and forgiving finish. It dries very fast if used as directed. Easy to use and has a very nice look.
|
Richard D.
Off his rocker
Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 6307
Loc: Los Angeles
|
|
Post deleted by Richard D.
-------------------- RD
|
Bøb
Member
Registered: 10/13/06
Posts: 1296
Loc: S.E. Tennessee
|
|
Not even a remotely close comparison ... but if it makes you feel better ... so be it.
The man asked for advice within a limited realm of possibilities, and mostly what he gets is a ration of crap about what a bad idea it is in the first place. Do you think for a moment that your condemnation of his desire to stain is in any way helpful ???
-------------------- Now let us retract the foreskin of misconception and apply the wire brush of enlightenment.
|
Richard D.
Off his rocker
Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 6307
Loc: Los Angeles
|
|
My apologies to the OP for responding to Bob.
-------------------- RD
|
amtc
Member
Registered: 03/13/04
Posts: 543
Loc: Jacksonville, Florida
|
|
My reasoning for garnet shellac is to act as a sealer to prevent botching and to help add a darker color to the cherry. I have never used garnet shellac so that is why I am asking for advice.
I appreciate all the advice and feed back I have received and will look into them further. My normal approach to finishing cherry has been to use BLO and antique finish. It darkens nicely and has a warm feel to it however this dresser needs to be a little darker and I have never stained (or darkened) cherry and I have a lot of time invested in the dresser and don't want to mes it up!!
|
JR1
Member
Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 6553
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
|
|
Garnet or Thai Seed look great on dark woods. Adding extra coats makes it darker. I usually use a 1# cot for ease of application. If you want the cherry darker you can do that by exposing it to direct sunlight a few hours a day.
But as its already done I'd just try shellac. If push comes to shove you can add TransTint tothe shellac to make a tone coat.
-------------------- homo homini lupus
|
Richard D.
Off his rocker
Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 6307
Loc: Los Angeles
|
|
I built the entire bedroom set except for the dresser. Cherry with BLO and Zinnser Sealcoat which is 2lbs. blond shellac. I wet sanded the shellac with 400 on a felt wrapped block and it really smoothes it out to the touch. The night stands (which I built two of) show signs of wear on the top and I'll have to re-coat them eventually.
They look better now than when I finished them and the room gets no sunlight so it is a slow process. I suppose a tint or darker shellac would give it a darker look but I'm content to wait. Being the purist that I am (as if that's a bad thing?) I find the natural patina of Cherry to be superior to anything done to speed the process. I have read to many horror stories of builders "sun tanning" Cherry so I just left it alone.
Here is an updated picture I just took seven years later....
-------------------- RD
Edited by Richard D. (07/18/12 05:32 PM)
|
John Walkowiak
Member
Registered: 10/29/07
Posts: 89
Loc: Mpls. MN
|
|
If your goal is truly to get the piece to coffee color, suntaning and or no amount of shellac will get you there. Although they chose cherry wood, they don't really want the color of real cherry. You will have to use a dye, or stain and or glazes. You can get it close with these and then use a dark or tinted shellac to creep up on the final color if needed. The customer should give you a sample of the color they want so you can best duplicate it on the wood you have used. It sounds like they may want your piece to match something they already have. If so, a piece of that should be in front of you when you are working on your piece. If you are trying to read their mind on the color, it's going to be difficult for you and they might not be happy with what you thought they wanted. Good luck.
|