JackP said:

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I don't understand the purpose of the depth stop. It would prevent the tapering of the cut which is the essence of sliding dovetails.

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I agree, a tapered joint is much stronger but is a variant and not always desirable (for example, a mobile joint like a drawer runner).
However I found easier to cut the dovetail to max taper depth, then lift the depth stop and finish the job in few plane passes, following the layout.




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Ciao,
Giuliano

http://woodworkingbyhand2.blogspot.com/

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ac445ab said:

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Thank you for appreciating this plane.

Has someone a plane (planes) for cutting the female part of the joint? I would like to build one, so I need models.

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JimReed@Tallahassee said:

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ac445ab said:

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Thank you for appreciating this plane.

Has someone a plane (planes) for cutting the female part of the joint? I would like to build one, so I need models.

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I think the traditional way is to use a stair saw to maike the kerfs, a dado plane to cut out the waste, and chisels or #71 router plane to finish up.

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I am thinking about a modified dado plane, like this in the schematic draw. The female part of the joint could be cut in two passes, in opposite directions across the board, without sawing and finish up. Japanese planes like this exist.



A couple of nickers would be used across the grain and an adjustable depth stop would provide the right cut depth. Of course you need a proper shaped guide and more than one plane for different widths.
Do you think it could work?

Edited by ac445ab (07/29/12 04:03 PM)

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