Knife Sharpeners
#11
This is kind of embarrassing, but I'm about to buy a knife sharpener because somehow I suddenly seem unable to sharpen a sloyd knife. I'm not talking about one of those electrical kitchen knife sharpener - I'm thinking of something like the Edge Pro (but cheaper).

For knives, I usually just use my 1 x 42 sander/grinder and get razor sharp knives in a matter of seconds.

Over the last week I have been trying to sharpen three sloyd knives - two by Del Stubbs (Pinewood Forge) and one by Svante Djarv. The Svante knife is finally kind of sharp, but much smaller than it was a week ago. I can't even get either Del Stubbs knives to cut paper. The edges skate across my thumbnail like they're in the ice capades. One of the Del Stubbs knives has lost so much steel that it now looks more like an awl. The other one hasn't lost as much steel, but isn't sharp either.

To see how weird this is, I just grabbed a dull kitchen knife, took it to the 1 x 42 sander, and had it razor sharp in less than 30 seconds. I am completely baffled.

Since I am a bit sharpening obsessed, I always sharpen with a Sharpie and 10X magnifier because I like to see what's happening at the edge. These edges look like they should cut with no light reflection along the edge. But they don't.

Besides the 1 x 42, I have tried water, ceramic, and diamond stones, PSA microabrasives and diamond sheets on wooden paddles, my CBN, deburring, and leather wheels, leather strop with the green crayon and without.

I need to buy a new knife, but need to be able to sharpen it. I figure the touch will come back some day, but I can't wait that long. So, I have officially thrown in the towel and am going to buy a knife sharpener.

Question is - has anyone used any of the sharpeners? Anyone you that you liked?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
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#12
Steve-

I assume you've seen the sharpening info on Del Stubbs website -
http://www.pinewoodforge.com/sharpening.html

He says if you're having trouble sharpening his knives send him a note. He can steer you straight.

Phil
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#13
I was going to say what Phil said.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#14
Thanks. I've had these knives for a long time and know Del's site by heart and know he says to avoid power. I actually did that until I got frustrated. I admit that I may have been a bit heavy handed with the knives, which is why they were dull in the first place. I probably should have contacted Del before they got as bad as they were, but I felt guilty about bugging him, especially knowing how backed up he has been since his injury a few years ago.

But you're definitely right and I should contact Del anyway to see what I was doing wrong.

Steve
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#15
Steve, do you have a leather stropping belt for your 1X42??...If so, I would sharpen those sloyds in the usual way, then take them to the power belt with green rouge on it. Maintain the bevel as flat on the strop as possible and try that..

Then test the edge on a piece of bass wood cross grain..If it is sharp, the surface of the wood where you cut it will have a nice shine to it. To me, it's a better way to test for sharpness than cutting paper.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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Upset





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#16
Don't know what you want to spend, but the best knife sharpener I've found is the Ken Onion Edition Work Sharp. It uses proprietary belts, but you really can't screw up with this machine. It puts a convex edge on the knife, which makes the edge tougher compared to a hollow ground edge. I got mine from Amazon. Prior to that, I used the Spyderco Tri-Angle. It's also very good, and costs less.

Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#17
You could try one of these: Lansky sharpening device
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#18
Timberwolf said:


Steve, do you have a leather stropping belt for your 1X42??...If so, I would sharpen those sloyds in the usual way, then take them to the power belt with green rouge on it. Maintain the bevel as flat on the strop as possible and try that..

Then test the edge on a piece of bass wood cross grain..If it is sharp, the surface of the wood where you cut it will have a nice shine to it. To me, it's a better way to test for sharpness than cutting paper.



Thanks Jack.

Yes, I have a leather belt for the 1 x 42 (actually 2 - one with compound and one without). I have to say that I don't like the leather belt as much as I do the leather wheel. The belt isn't as taught as I think it should be. Guessing they just stretch out over time, although I never leave them on the machine. When I use the belt, I tend to use it right at the upper wheel - as if it was a leather wheel.

I know you always say that getting the feel of the powered leather wheels takes time and I definitely agree.

I have some basswood and will definitely try that. I don't use the ability to cut paper as the ultimate gauge - it's just my way of determining whether I'm at the edge. I check on my thumbnail first, then try paper to confirm. The Sharpie is when I'm having trouble.

Thanks again
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#19
Bruce Haugen said:


You could try one of these: Lansky sharpening device




+1 on the Lansky. I have had one for 25 years and they work great. Quiet too.
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#20
I use paper wheels for knives.
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