DarkFlame
Member
Registered: 05/08/09
Posts: 226
Loc: San Antonio, TX
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The picture below is my tablesaw - model # 315.228510. I've just downloaded the manuals from the Sears website.
It's been in my semi-enclosed carport for 8-10 years, and hasn't been turned on in that time. I bought it new (before I knew anything about anything, & especially before I knew anything about woodworking), assembled it, cut a few boards, then let it sit.
I say the carport is "semi-enclosed" because it had a roof leak which let a lot of moisture into the unfinished room. So, I've started scraping/sanding/grinding the rust off of the steel (cast iron?) table and extensions (yes, all cast-iron top).
I believe this is called a "contractor" saw as the motor hangs off the back and belt-drives the blade. The stand is/was included & is attached.
I've decided that I can't use the saw, under any circumstances, in it's present location. So, I'm moving it to the back (covered) patio, where I'll be able to have space to move around.
Yes, I know the covered patio will be subject to at least as much moisture as the enclosed carport was before we fixed the leaky roof, but at least it'll be both covered and get used on a regular basis - hopefully every week and some days in between. It's a $800.00 doorstop (yes, I stupidly overpaid) where it's currently located, and that's my only option for making it useful.
I'd LIKE to put it on castors and move it into the driveway for use, but partially because of it's weight, and partially because of it's size, I don't believe that would be a reasonable use of my time, as often as I'm hoping to use it.
I just want to get the thing back into good working condition.
- Is there a good website I can reference (an online primer or tutorial) for information on doing the proper setup?
- What are "PALS" (I've read about them here, something about squaring the saw blad to the table top?)
- Other than replacing the belt (which I expect needs to be replaced simply because it hasn't been used in too-many years and it's become permanently molded into it's present shape), what other parts might I need to replace due to non-use?
- What other questions should I be asking?
I really think this TS can still be very useful. But, I know I have to put some maintenance time into it.
THANK YOU!!!
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David in San Antonio
“Each time a piece goes out,
I start on a new piece,
so there is renewal after renewal.
It's like picking a flower:
Each time you pick one,
a new one blooms.”
- Sam Maloof -
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knotscott
Member
Registered: 06/14/03
Posts: 10598
Loc: Rochester, NY
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Your saw is a descendant of the Emerson made Craftsman contractor saws, and was a predecessor to the Ridgid contractor saws. the "315" prefix means it was made by TTI/Ryobi for Sears between 1997 and 2004. It was essentially the same design as those made by Emerson prior to 1997. In 2004 TTI/Ryobi contracted with Emerson to make the Ridgid contractor saws for them. You're likely to find that many parts are interchangeable.
"PALS" are an alignment aid available from In-Line Industries and other retailers....$20 well spent if they have some that will fit your saw. Adding a link belt and pulley upgrade is a good move too if there's any vibration from the current belt and pulleys...do the belt first and then the pulleys if necessary. Minor rust should clean up with WD-40 and fine sandpaper or scotch brite pad. Heavy rust may need a rust remover like phosporic acid (Krud Kutter, Beoshield, Evaporust, etc.). Some folks like citric acid but I haven't tried it.
Get it aligned well, put a good blade and ZCI on it, and you'll be good to go.
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vitabile
Member
Registered: 06/27/04
Posts: 8467
Loc: Westchester County, New York
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To remove the rust, get some green scotchbrite pads & some WD-40. Liberally cover the surface with WD-40, then put the abrasive side of the pad down. Take your ROS & put the working end on top of the pad's sponge. Make sure you're not wearing any clothes you want to keep clean, not to mention eye protection. Turn on the ROS & go to town. Make sure you keep everything moving.
Wipe up the mess with paper towels. Repeat until all the rust is gone.
You'll have to go after any rust in the miter slots by hand.
HTH
Tony
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"The art of leadership is to work with the natural grain of the particular wood of humanity which comes to hand."
John Adair
My woodworking blog: Tony's Woodshop
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originalbart
Member
Registered: 08/19/08
Posts: 269
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Before you put a lot of blood sweat & tears into this check the arbor next to the flange it should be 5/8" diameter & may well be 5/8" all the rest of the way to the end of the shaft, but anywhere from 3/16" to 1/8" out it may be a smaller diameter from then to the end this will inhibit using a stacked dado set because the the blade next to the flange will always spin true while the chippers & outside blade will not spin concentric to the blade by the flange & you will never get a flat square edged dado.
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Hell hath no fury like being scorned by Festool because you won't pay full price. .
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DarkFlame
Member
Registered: 05/08/09
Posts: 226
Loc: San Antonio, TX
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originalbart said:
Before you put a lot of blood sweat & tears into this check the arbor next to the flange it should be 5/8" diameter & may well be 5/8" all the rest of the way to the end of the shaft, but anywhere from 3/16" to 1/8" out it may be a smaller diameter from then to the end this will inhibit using a stacked dado set because the the blade next to the flange will always spin true while the chippers & outside blade will not spin concentric to the blade by the flange & you will never get a flat square edged dado.
Bart,
This is good advice, and an even better bit of info to know. I have never used a dado blade, don't even have one, so it's not an issue - YET. But, when I eventually get to where I'll need one, I'll already know if I can use the table saw. Thank you.
I am aware, however, that there are "other ways" to cut a groove in a board. Moving the board in increments is one way. Using a router table, or even a guide rail with a router, is another.
I am FAR from being where I'll NEED a dado, but I'll definitely make the measurement so that I'll know. Hopefully, by then, I should be able to afford a replacement, especially a good used one, with help from Craig.
THANKS!!!
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David in San Antonio
“Each time a piece goes out,
I start on a new piece,
so there is renewal after renewal.
It's like picking a flower:
Each time you pick one,
a new one blooms.”
- Sam Maloof -
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Rickbaro
Member
Registered: 07/17/07
Posts: 832
Loc: Flower Mound, TX
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I've read accounts of guys using razor blades on the cast iron to clean rust. I finally tried it and I like it. I find that it’s not the end of the process, but rather, the first step.
I'll use the razor and some lubricant (WD40 is good, or a penetrating oil). The blade gets the surface somewhat uniform. Then I'll use sandpaper in my palm sander. If I don't use the blade first, I’ll spend too much time sanding out the stubborn spots, and clog the paper with whatever it is that caused the spot.
So the razor helps the paper, and the paper helps the Scotchbrite.
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It wouldn't be the first time I was the last one know!
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Sawdustd
Member
Registered: 06/21/08
Posts: 270
Loc: Burke, VA
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Very first question. Does the motor run? Lift up the motor, loosen the mounting bolt, remove the belt, spin the motor pulley by hand to remove some of the corrosion on the armeture and turn on the saw. The motor should run. Hopefully the motor runs. San Anton has a relatively dry climate but since you have rust on the table top, who knows.
Assuming the motor runs, lubricate the motor bearings with 3-1 oil. The are small red or yellow caps at the end of the motor. Pry them off and squeeze in 3 or 4 drops of oil.
Replacing the belt is a must do. The old belt now has a permant wrap. Link belt is best but Sears can provide a replacement. Lesson learned. When the saw is not in use, remove the belt from the motor pulley and let it hang from the arbor pulley.
Check to see if the blade rises and tilits -- crank the wheels. Concern is that there is rust on the two threated shafts. Only way to take a good look at those shafts are to remove the throat plate and or crawl under the saw with a flash light. A good dose of WD-40 and a small wire bruse should free them up/ clean up the threads. Once free and turning smoothly, wipe off the WD-40 and spray on a Silicon lubricant. Silcone won't collect sawdust like WD-40.
Once you remove the rust from the table top, apply a coat of paste wax and buff by hand. I use Johson's floor wax -- just cause I have it on hand. Does a great job of preventing rust.
You can make or buy a mobile base for the saw. Forget casters on each leg. That was Sear's orginal solution.
May the "force" be with you. You are going to need it.
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Bullethead
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 2456
Loc: West Temple, TX
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Good advice already given.
Check the motor for corrosion and also you may want to get a new switch, and those contacts are small, thin and easily corroded.
Link belt also a must do.
The rust will come off. I have used the WD-40 and Scotchbright routine myself and like it. For really tough spots I have used naval jelly and a wire brush too.
I know on the Ridgid web site, there was a short run of arbors with a groove by the flange that caused issues with dado blades. some replaced the arbor, but many put JB Weld in the groove, sanded it flush with the rest of the arbor and were good to go.
That is a good saw and when you get it spruced up, it will be a tool you should enjoy using.
Post some before and after pics... 
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Conservatism is incompatible with democracy. It is a destructive system of inequality and prejudice that is founded on deception.==Philip Agre
My shop:
http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915
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Bullethead
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 2456
Loc: West Temple, TX
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BTW...you can see pics of my 1996 Craftsman saw on the link.
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Conservatism is incompatible with democracy. It is a destructive system of inequality and prejudice that is founded on deception.==Philip Agre
My shop:
http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915
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DarkFlame
Member
Registered: 05/08/09
Posts: 226
Loc: San Antonio, TX
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Sawdustd,
Thank you for the very specific instructions. I do know that the belt is permanently shaped, and it's a lesson learned for removing the belt when the TS won't be used for a while. Plus, that's a HUGE safety factor - kids can't saw off fingers (or worse) when the blade won't turn! Plus, it'll be unplugged when I'm not using it, so that's also good.
The first order of business for the TS is to get it out of the enclosed carport. It's so crowded in there that I can't move around the TS. And, moving stuff around in there is like the Chinese puzzle that's a 4x4 matrix with 15 squares and 1 blank space, trying to get things in order. But, I made some progress on Thursday, and expect to make more today.
The hard part is going to be MOVING the TS. I'm pretty sure we can drag it across the concrete. We can even get it over the threshold of the sliding glass door and into the driveway. But, getting it around the house & onto the porch is PROBABLY going to require lifting that thing up into one of the trailers. I
'd PREFER the lawmower trailer because that's closer to the ground and easier to maneuver pulling it with the lawnmower.
But, the truck-bed trailer is much sturdier, will carry the weight better, and probably won't blow the tires out from the weight  - BUT, it's higher off the ground (further to lift the heavy table), and much more difficult to maneuver pulling it behind the Grand Caravan (I can do it, but it's tight space).
But, dragging the thing around 2 sides of the house - ON THE GRASS, also isn't an option. We'll figure it out once we get the TS into the driveway.
The good news is that the time it's taking me to get it movable has provided time for so many great people to respond with ideas & techniques for getting the TS back in working condition.
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David in San Antonio
“Each time a piece goes out,
I start on a new piece,
so there is renewal after renewal.
It's like picking a flower:
Each time you pick one,
a new one blooms.”
- Sam Maloof -
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