Uncle Ben
Member
Registered: 06/14/07
Posts: 1671
Loc: Southern California
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If you're looking a plunge router, or just your first router, consider this deal at Woodcraft for a Freud 3 1/4 horse power, variable speed, plunge router. I bought this router a while back when they were going for this same price and I definitely don't regret it.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=148513&FamilyID=20403&refcode=09INCATA
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Howard Acheson
Registered: 08/07/01
Posts: 15809
Loc: Southport, NC USA
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I would jump on it at that price. In 1995 I bought two at $225 which was a big discount from their over $300 price at the time. Can't believe the current price.
One has been in my router table since I bought it and the other is my "go to" hand held. Best routers I've ever used.
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Howie.........
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thallikar
Member
Registered: 05/18/06
Posts: 852
Loc: Naperville, IL
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how does this compare to Hitachi M12V? Can we do above table router bit height changes easily without using router raizer or some type of lift?
Thanks.
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Stonehead
Member
Registered: 07/26/05
Posts: 1469
Loc: Dutchess Co., New York
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Is this a worthwhile upgrade from a PC 895 (Type II Base)? I'll definitely use it in a Leigh FMT. Is it permissible in a router table? (I thought I was told long ago never to use a plunge base in a router table.)
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"Three things in human life are important. The first is to be kind. The second is to be kind. And the third is to be kind." Henry James. Actually, four things are important. A good heating system is important.
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ChrisR
Up 4 Title Change
Registered: 11/17/00
Posts: 10409
Loc: Fairfax, VA
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They're very similar. Similar enough, that I suspect that Freud took some design cues from the Hitachi.
Neither is, IMHO, a **GREAT ** plunger. But they're both serviceable, well built, and the Freud's a steal at that price.
No above-table adjustments out of the box, but the included oversized height adjustment knob is useable if you have access under your table while the router's in place.
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knotscott
Member
Registered: 06/14/03
Posts: 10459
Loc: Rochester, NY
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My biggest beef with the FT2000/FT2200 models is the small throat opening....otherwise it's a strong router often at a bargain price. Not sure that the Hitachi's throat is much larger, but it's very easy to clip the tabs out on the Hitachi, which opens up the throat...much harder to do with the FT2200.
Note that the FT2200 is very different from the newer FT1700 and FT3000 which both have large openings and several advanced above table features.
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Malta
Member
Registered: 12/14/07
Posts: 503
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Thanks for the link!
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JJTC
Member
Registered: 11/12/08
Posts: 252
Loc: Minneapolis
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I can and do live with the minor "beefs" and can highly recommend this devil at this price. IMO it's a steal and a no brainer if one wants a plunge for the table.
Pretty big for freehanding IMO but can be done.
A nip on the tabs and done - never done it on the Hitachi so can't say how they compare.
The newer models got more bells and whistles but you pay for them too.
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kurt18947
Member
Registered: 04/17/05
Posts: 284
Loc: SE PA
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knotscott said:
My biggest beef with the FT2000/FT2200 models is the small throat opening....otherwise it's a strong router often at a bargain price. ....
I have the FT2000E, very similar machines. True statement about the throat opening. There are at least a couple ways around this in addition to doing surgery on the base. The problem is primarily with 3"+ panel raising bits. One method is to set the bit as close to the base as you feel comfortable with and set the fence to take less than the full width cut the first time around. Second pass reset the fence to take a full width cut then raise the router as required. This is what I do and no complaints. The second method is to make a temporary top out of hardbard or other slick sheet goods. Cut out for the bit and butt it up against the fence. This reduces the amount of cutter exposed. Make the first pass with this subtable in place then remove it for subsequent passes. I initially substituted a crank in place of the knob to move the router up and down. This works but the crank turned too easily and the router would move as it was cutting if I didn't lock the plunge lock. I installed a Router Raizer which has enough "drag" built into it that the router doesn't move with the plunge lock unlocked and is adjustable from the table top. Lotsa bang for the buck. Oh, don't take the springs out when mounting it in a table. I did take the springs out when I did the homemade crank. That might have been why the router moved when running-not enough load on the threads. I also found without the springs when I locked the plunge lock, the bit tilted a little. That doesn't happen with the springs in place. I did remove the plunge rod boots and so far that hasn't been a problem.
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Howard Acheson
Registered: 08/07/01
Posts: 15809
Loc: Southport, NC USA
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I don't know whether the Freud or the Hitachi came first. Both were out about the same time. I doubt there was any copying. Mine two router were made in Spain as I recall.
As I said, I have had one in a router table for it's whole life of almost 15 years. I've never had to remove the router to change bits and I have the dust collection shield installed. I have no router raiser either as the router is easily and accurately adjusted using its depth adjustment knob.
I've used up to 3" bits and not had a clearance problem. My router plate thickness is about 3/8" thick and allows the bits to be lowered below the surface of the plate top.
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Howie.........
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