jgourlay
Member
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 6231
Loc: Houston, Texas
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Gents: please refresh me on the advantages of 1" vs 3/4" vs .5" bandsaw blade width for resawing/ripping. My BS can properly tension all.
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JGrout
member
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 16710
Loc: Grand Junction CO
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the deeper the beam section the less deflection in resawing. 1" blade will in practice cut a straighter line with less deflection that a 1/2" wide blade. To me the more important factor is the fewer teeth per inch the easier the cut providing the power is there.
Joe
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FJS
"a man with experience is never at the mercy of one with only an opinion. "
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jgourlay
Member
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 6231
Loc: Houston, Texas
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Does fewer tpi mean you have a rougher surface and thus lose more to final thickness planing/sanding? Or that difference minor?
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MAKE: Void your warranty, violate a user agreement, fry a circuit, blow a fuse, poke an eye out... www.makezine.com
No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
The meek. It's what's for dinner.
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Howard Acheson
Registered: 08/07/01
Posts: 15809
Loc: Southport, NC USA
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Beam strength increases with width and thickness of the blade.
That said, it's probably best not to exceed the manufacturer's specifications. The unfortunate part is that some manufacturer's have responded to competition by somewhat arbitrarily stating a wider blade is usable. For example, most 14" Delta clone BS were traditionally limited to 1/2". Part of the reason was that the crowned tires on these saws do not properly support wider blade. Frequently, there is more wander when using the wider blade than when using the 1/2" blade on 14" saws.
So, what is the size of the blade that the saw manufacturer says can be used?
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Howie.........
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jgourlay
Member
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 6231
Loc: Houston, Texas
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Yeesh...back to the owners manual.
Howard Acheson said:
Beam strength increases with width and thickness of the blade.
That said, it's probably best not to exceed the manufacturer's specifications. The unfortunate part is that some manufacturer's have responded to competition by somewhat arbitrarily stating a wider blade is usable. For example, most 14" Delta clone BS were traditionally limited to 1/2". Part of the reason was that the crowned tires on these saws do not properly support wider blade. Frequently, there is more wander when using the wider blade than when using the 1/2" blade on 14" saws.
So, what is the size of the blade that the saw manufacturer says can be used?
--------------------
MAKE: Void your warranty, violate a user agreement, fry a circuit, blow a fuse, poke an eye out... www.makezine.com
No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
The meek. It's what's for dinner.
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JGrout
member
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 16710
Loc: Grand Junction CO
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The surface can be rougher but there are blades that account for that (Laguna resaw king is one). That and a good setup in my situation leaves me with a surface that I can sand out in no more than 3 passes per side.
The kerf is .045" (less than 1/16") generally, so it is pretty easy for me to get 5 usable flitches 3/32" thick out of 13/16" final sanding makes them 1/16" ready to veneer.
Joe
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FJS
"a man with experience is never at the mercy of one with only an opinion. "
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MstrCarpenter
Member
Registered: 02/28/08
Posts: 625
Loc: New Hampshire seacoast
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I don't want to steal the thread, just expand it a little. I'm new to resawing, so any knowledge or experiance Woodnetters would care to share is appreciated. Personally I was under the impression that a finer blade gave a smoother cut, but for resawing the first criteria is to make sure the blade can remove the chips fast enough. That would translate to coarse for wide hdwd., and really coarse for wide softwood. I thought a wider blade would be for a straighter cut and/or flatter re-saws due to the increased beam strength/tension.
I need to finish at 3/8" x 2 1/2", so I'll be ripping to rough width before re-sawing. Then I'll joint, plane, and shape one edge, before going back to the T.S. for my final width. Got any suggestions? I need 300+ lin.ft..
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Sign at N.E. Voc. Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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JGrout
member
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 16710
Loc: Grand Junction CO
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first question: what saw?
14" clone? 20" industrial ?
that is the first thing to figure out.
Joe
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FJS
"a man with experience is never at the mercy of one with only an opinion. "
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MstrCarpenter
Member
Registered: 02/28/08
Posts: 625
Loc: New Hampshire seacoast
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Just a little bigger, it's this one; http://www.owwm.com/mfgindex/imagedetail.aspx?id=895 . I'm spinning it with a 5H.P. at, I think, about 400 ft./min.. After asking around here I purchased two 18'-6" x 3/4" x 3 t.p.i. Timberwolf blades. I also got a 1/2" and a 1". I didn't get a chance to start on that project today. Setting up the Parks planer took longer than expected. I have to be on it tommorow though (actually later this morning).
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Sign at N.E. Voc. Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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JGrout
member
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 16710
Loc: Grand Junction CO
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I will be very interested in the life of those Timberwolf blades in this situation.
The 2 1/2" thickness is not really any harder than a deep TS cut. You have the power so the only factor left is blade longevity. I know for a fact that a carbide blade would easily do several times the amount of stock you need, probably way more than that.
Keep us informed.
Joe
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FJS
"a man with experience is never at the mercy of one with only an opinion. "
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