Blacky's Boy
Moderator
Registered: 06/17/07
Posts: 3184
Loc: Buck's County PA USA
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Thanks to the tip I received here, and finding (2) REAL No12 scraper blades in my arsenal (bought them at a flea market a while back and then forgot about em'!), I was FINALLY able to get nice whispy shavings out of my No12.
The edge was not beveled like this scraper blade "should" be. Rather I stoned the edge with a file then raised the burr with my hock burnisher. After setting the clearance I was able to clean up a knarly piece of bubinga quite nicely.
I may end up grinding a bevel on one edge just to see what kind of shavings it takes. But that will be later on. I'm just happy this scraper finally works. Now what the heck do I do with this Hock scraper blade? 
Thanks again for the help guys!
-------------------- See ya around,
Dominic
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Wesley Snipes in Blade: "Some ***** are always trying to ice skate uphill."
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Kansas City Fireslayer
Member
Registered: 04/02/03
Posts: 3341
Loc: Kansas City, MO...MMM BBQ
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I think it's easier to get really nice shaveings from a thinner blade that you can turn a hook on and camber than it is from one of the thicker LN or Hock blades. The thicker blades are more finicky and less forgiveing, IMO.
For the thicker blades--45 degree angle and polish the bevel or micro bevel along with the back as you would a normal plane blade.
For the thinner blades, go through your grits like you would a blade or iron and polish the cutting face and the edge before rolling your hook. This made a really big difference for me.
If you don't want to risk damaging your high dollars stones, pick up some cheap or flea market oil stones for this purpose. Even the small natural stones made for knifes will work by useing the stone on the thin scraper blade instead of vise versa.
-------------------- Damon
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If a bear is chaseing you and your friend through the woods, you don't have to out run the bear, you just have to out run your friend.
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Derek Cohen
Member
Registered: 08/20/04
Posts: 3033
Loc: Perth, Australia
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Hi Dominic
For years I used my Stanley #112 (just a longer #12) without a hook. I almost gave it away in disgust.
This is the result with a hook ..


Here is an article of interest: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTec...e%20blades.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
-------------------- Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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Steamdonkey
Member
Registered: 06/14/05
Posts: 532
Loc: Portland, OR
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I'll second what Damon is saying about the need to polish the blade... including the back just like you would on your smoothers. After taking mine to 8000 grit I get great results with thin and thick blades. I purchased the LN blade and it works great. You can also fit the blade in the MK II guide which makes honing easy.
After honing to 45 deg. I use a light hook, otherwise the shavings get pretty thick.
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Blacky's Boy
Moderator
Registered: 06/17/07
Posts: 3184
Loc: Buck's County PA USA
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Derek, I appreciate the link to your article. I read it during my lunch break today. I'll give the Hock blade another shot.
-------------------- See ya around,
Dominic
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Wesley Snipes in Blade: "Some ***** are always trying to ice skate uphill."
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2beast
Member
Registered: 01/26/05
Posts: 4614
Loc: Central Ill
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Saved for another year
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Greg
In 1988 I told a guy that his girlfriend was cheating, then I told him how I knew. Then I went to the emergency room to get my broken leg set.
Snipe Hunter 5/23/2010
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DW Pgh
mean spiriteD
Registered: 04/16/07
Posts: 9503
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Funny to see old stuff. I watched charlesworth's video about sharpening the scraper blade like a plane blade and then making a jig to be consistent with the angle, and I wish I had the hock blade I talk about previously back for my scraper.
I gave it to a buddy, and I know he hasn't touched it - probably never will.
Oh well, the rest of the scrapers run like Derek's pictures - you can just use them like planes. Of all of the scrapers I've gotten, the recent LN 212, or whatever the small bronze one is - I'd buy that again twice if I had to.
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