BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2598
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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mattsworld said:
I swear by Citristrip....you can get it at the borg. Its a low VOC biodegradable stripper that uses citrus extracts instead of Xylene and all the carcinogens. It smells nice, works fast, and you just rinse it with water to clean it up.
Thanks, Matt. I used a little biodegradable RemoveAll stripper to take off a few paint drips, and it left blotchy spots. I'll have to look for the Citristrip.
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2598
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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The finish is stripped off the four handles and now I have two repairs to make. But I'm kinda scratching my head a little right now, trying to figure out how to handle a couple of things. First, the D-42 handle, in the picture below, with the D-112 handle next to it for comparison purposes.
The D-112 on the left looks like apple to me, but I haven't figured out the D-42. When it was stripped, it had this odd reddish tinge to it, almost like a really faded red milk paint. Most of it has been scraped away, but a little remains, as you can see in the picture. The grain looks like rosewood, but it's a really light rosewood if that's the case. Much lighter color than the D-15 handle, which is very dark. Anyway, I'm trying to find a match to this wood, and suggestions would be appreciated. The Disstonian Institute says the D-42 had walnut handles (during WWII), but the red tinge has me puzzled.
The part that needs repair is shown below.
And then the second question, related to the D-112 handle. See pic below. Part of the handle has a dark stain to it. I've tried removing it by scraping, but it persists. Also tried mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, and lacquer thinner. Again, suggestions would be appreciated. Bleach?
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7070
Loc: South Alabama
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The reddish tote isn't mahogany, is it? Aside from rosewood, it's about the only commonly-used wood in saw totes that has a natural red color. I don't know that it was ever used for the 112, though.
The black streak kind of looks like a stain from rusting metal. You know how, if you leave a piece of iron on damp wood, it will stain the piece quite a ways down? (Not that this has ever happened to me...) Kind of looks like that. In other words, it may not be a surface-only stain.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2598
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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Bibliophile 13 said:
The reddish tote isn't mahogany, is it? Aside from rosewood, it's about the only commonly-used wood in saw totes that has a natural red color. I don't know that it was ever used for the 112, though.
Thanks Steve. The reddish tote is from the D-42, which the D.I. only mentions having rosewood and walnut handles. And the grain doesn't look mahogany-ish. I've been out rummaging thru the scrap box, looking for woods that might match. Of those two woods, rosewood is the only possible match as far as I can tell. Maybe the "faded red milk paint" look was a by-product of the lacquer thinner used to strip the old finish.
Quote:
The black streak kind of looks like a stain from rusting metal. You know how, if you leave a piece of iron on damp wood, it will stain the piece quite a ways down? (Not that this has ever happened to me...) Kind of looks like that. In other words, it may not be a surface-only stain.
Yeah, that would be discouraging.....but these will be users, so I suppose I can live with it if I have to.
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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MarvW
Member
Registered: 08/27/07
Posts: 2411
Loc: Northern California
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I think I'd try going a little deeper on your darkened handle. It being a user saw, it wouldn't hurt for it to be .015 thinner. 
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Catchalater,
Marv
I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better.”
― Maya Angelou
I'm working toward my PHD. (Projects Half Done)
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Daryl Weir
Professor Sawboy
Registered: 01/01/06
Posts: 1142
Loc: Knoxville, IL
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I've got a couple of D-42's, the first one I stripped with lacquer thinner and I thought it was mahogany and not walnut. The color and grain was just different than walnut and I've worked with quite a bit of walnut. The Disstonian Institute had mahogany down at one time and then switched.
The second D-42 still needs some work as the finish is crazed with some flaking off. It looks like mahogany also and not walnut. That's what I'm thinking at least.
If it is some type of rosewood it's not Brazilian as the weight just isn't there. Atkins used a rosewood on their No.400 and 401 that was lighter in weight than Brazilian but it still didn't look like the grain in the D-42 handle.
I know oxalic acid has worked for some people on bringing out iron stains on oak. The tanic acid in oak reacts with iron. I'm not sure if the oxalic acid would work on apple if it's an iron stain or not. Since I haven't used it, I'm not sure what it will do to the rest of the color on the apple. I've seen some bleached apple handles and it isn't pretty.
If it were mine I'd probably just let it go and put some garnet shellac on it.
Take care,
Daryl
Old Saws Restored
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Take care,
Daryl
Old Saws Restored
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MarvW
Member
Registered: 08/27/07
Posts: 2411
Loc: Northern California
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I think you can reduce the amount of darkened wood by doing some sanding. It probably won't all come off but some of it will and it will be less dark than it is now. I would sand the entire handle and expose the original grain. Then give it several coats of BLO. The BLO will darken the Applewood and will allow that darkened area to blend to some degree.
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Catchalater,
Marv
I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better.”
― Maya Angelou
I'm working toward my PHD. (Projects Half Done)
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2598
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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MarvW said:
I think you can reduce the amount of darkened wood by doing some sanding. It probably won't all come off but some of it will and it will be less dark than it is now. I would sand the entire handle and expose the original grain. Then give it several coats of BLO. The BLO will darken the Applewood and will allow that darkened area to blend to some degree.
Marv, thanks for the suggestion. I went at it a little harder with the card scraper and noticed some improvement. Then I took a smoothing plane and gently worked it with a very light setting. Got rid of most of it, and it looks much better.
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2598
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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Daryl Weir said:
I know oxalic acid has worked for some people on bringing out iron stains on oak. The tanic acid in oak reacts with iron. I'm not sure if the oxalic acid would work on apple if it's an iron stain or not. Since I haven't used it, I'm not sure what it will do to the rest of the color on the apple. I've seen some bleached apple handles and it isn't pretty.
If it were mine I'd probably just let it go and put some garnet shellac on it.
I'm a little leery of the bleach and acids as well. I was able to physically remove most of it (see my response to Marv), then I'll do BLO followed by shellac on the apple D-112 handle.
Thanks for the comments on the rosewood, mahogany and walnut. I did not know that mahogany might be a real possibility. But what the heck, it's really pretty wood no matter what we call it!
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2598
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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Making slow but sure progress on the handles. Here is the D-42. I've decided this is rosewood, as a piece of bubinga from my scrap box matches pretty good for the repair area.
Here's the original as received:
After stripping off the old finish and a little touch-up with a card scraper.
Note the damage on the upper horn, which I repaired:
And after a coat of BLO, with just the right light  , you can barely see the repair:
Here's the D-15 handle, I've decided it is walnut. It's just to dark to be rosewood. It wasn't in to bad shape to start, but the lacquer finish was flaking/crazing pretty bad.
After stripping the lacquer, cleaning up, and a couple of coats of BLO. This was an already dark wood that got darker.
This side shows the grain a little better:
These will both get a few coats of shellac next. Thanks for the help, and thanks for looking and commenting!
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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