Bibliophile 13
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Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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I'm on Spring Break this week, and I'm taking time to finally put together a tool chest that will hold most (not all) of my frequently used hand tools. Schwarz's book tipped me over the edge.
Here's the quarter-sawn cherry in the rough that will make up much of the carcase:
Yes, cherry, not pine. The first chapter of The Anarchist's Tool Chest is titled "Disobey Me." So I did.
Most tool chests don't need to look like fine furniture, but because mine will be stored in the dining room, mine does need to look nice. Plus, I had some good cherry boards on hand, so that settled it. However, I don't have quite enough cherry to make up full panels plus do all the trimming. I do, however, have lots of pecan that I've been gradually sawing out of a log. But pecan is very heavy, much too heavy for a tool chest. My solution: ditch the dovetails and use a frame-and-panel construction with cherry frames and pecan panels. The panels can be relatively thin, which will make for a lighter chest.
After a day and a half, I've gotten this far:
The dry-fit went together well.
I dimensioned and surfaced all the stock by hand. The plow plane got a good workout, though I think I'm ready to add an auxiliary fence for better registration on the workpiece. I cut 16 mortise and tenon joints mostly by hand, though I used a drill press to hog out much of the waste. But I didn't blow out a single mortise wall, so I consider it a success.
Tomorrow I start dimensioning and gluing up panels.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2603
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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I think you broke the rules in fine fashion. Keep us updated, it's looking fabulous so far. 
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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cputnam
Member
Registered: 01/28/03
Posts: 3731
Loc: Southern California
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When I built the chests for my young grandkids, I specifically rejected frame & panel construction because of what I perceive to be a strength issue. If what you are using finishes out to a nominal 3/4" then your grooves are 1/4" and the sides around the grooves are 1/4" and the panel tenons are 1/4". Granted, you aren't a wild young child but you clearly think 1/4" will provide sufficient strength for a hard working chest to last through the vicissitudes of a lifetime. Would you please elucidate your thoughts as to why?
I'm not arguing, nor will I. I just need some education.
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Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
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Wilbur Pan
Member
Registered: 01/26/07
Posts: 3503
Loc: East Brunswick, NJ
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Joined chests have frame and panel construction for the sides, and are plenty strong. The panels may theoretically be weaker than a solid board, but the frame will be bearing the vast majority of the stresses that the chest will endure. And you could argue that the frame and panel construction makes the chest less prone to problems down the road due to seasonal wood movement.
Here are a series of articles by Peter Follansbee that will show how robust this method of construction really is way better than I can.
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Hail St. Roy, Full of Grace, The Schwarz is with thee.
Blessed art thou among woodworkers, and blessed is the fruit of thy saw, dovetails.
Holy St. Roy, Master of Chisels, pray for us sharpeners now, and at the hour of planing.
Amen.
$300 is a lot of Money!
giant Cypress: Japanese tool blog
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TucsonLawrence
pot stirrer
Registered: 03/11/10
Posts: 1799
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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please keep the pictures coming as I am very interested (and so far impressed) at this piece.
Thanks for sharing, you're off to a spectacular start
Lawrence
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my portfolio
http://s171.photobucket.com/user/ldr_klr/slideshow/portfolio?sort=6
The "he" is always lower case - Steve Martin
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Skip J.
Member
Registered: 12/08/06
Posts: 2683
Loc: Sugar Land, Texas
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Hello Steve;
That cherry planed up very well.... a local source I presume????? You have done so much with pecan, I can't wait to see the results...
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Skip
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mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
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Nice looking start!
I will be doing this road later this year so I am anxious to see what you come up with.
Wilbur Pan said:
Joined chests have frame and panel construction for the sides, and are plenty strong. The panels may theoretically be weaker than a solid board, but the frame will be bearing the vast majority of the stresses that the chest will endure. And you could argue that the frame and panel construction makes the chest less prone to problems down the road due to seasonal wood movement.
Here are a series of articles by Peter Follansbee that will show how robust this method of construction really is way better than I can.
I think he is more worried about the chest being struck by an itemand moved with 150lbs of tools in it. If he does a standard 1/4 inch panel I can see the concern. If on the other hand he makes the panels in the same way as Chris makes the lid in his book it will likely be plenty strong.
Also this chest will be in a house so it is much less likely to be hit with the tablesaw when its pushed across the room.
(Some comments not a direct reply to wilber)
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Brad
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JustinTyson
Tree guru
Registered: 01/06/11
Posts: 1334
Loc: McComb, MS
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It's looking good! I love quartersawn cherry. It's a highly underrated wood, IMHO. I remember a QS cherry side table in FWW a few years back that Garrett Hack built that was a knockout beauty. Keep the pics comin'!
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"If I had eight hours to cut down a tree, I'd spend six hours sharpening my axe." -Abraham Lincoln
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Nerd Magic
Member
Registered: 03/16/11
Posts: 121
Loc: Atlanta, GA
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Steve,
I particularly like following your projects because I have similar working conditions and considerations. I'm very excited to follow this one and your work looks great so far. I'm sure it will be unique and beautiful.
What have you been doing for tool storage thus far? It's a real problem for me.
I made some posts last year about my rather awkwardly sized small tool chest -- I bought it already built, but with no interior. In the interim woodworking feel by the wayside -- among other things I've been doing a moderate remodeling project for the last few months.
But when I've had time I have been using it with makeshift tills, playing around with it in sketchup, etc. and my most urgent project is to fit out its interior to hold the majority of my tools. So I'm very interested to see how you fit yours out. 
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"But before you come to use your Planes, you must know how to grind, and whet them, for they are not so fitted when they are bought, but every Workman accomodates them to his purpose..."
-- Joseph Moxon
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Ah Steve not fair you broke the rules, what color Milk paint you going to use  .
Only kidding seriously that will be a nice combination and looking forward to you chest. Those woods along with walnut are my favorite. That should be a nice contrast.
Steve
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Thanks for the encouragement, guys. I got one panel glued up yesterday, and today I'll start assembling another panel and hopefully gluing up some frames with panels in them. I'll try to take a few process pics, but my projects go a lot faster when I'm not stopping every ten minutes to take pictures.
@Nerd Magic: I've been storing my tools all over the place. I have a smaller metal toolbox with a couple drawers that holds my joinery planes, my smoother, my chisels, files, and layout tools, but it's getting pretty crowded. My saws and boring tools are hanging on the wall. But several tools, including my jack plane, my jointer plane, and three mallets have no permanent storage space and merely sit on the bench. I really needed some permanent storage for those workhorses.
@Cputnam: You raise a valid question about the strength of the carcase. In theory I agree with Schwarz that 1" thick pine, dovetailed at the corners, would be ideal. However, there are many frame-and-panel structures that have lasted a very long time, so I'm not particularly worried. The pecan panels are about 1/2" thick, and pecan does not split easily. (I know because I split the billets out of a log, and nearly killed myself in the process.) The grooves are a regular 1/4" wide, which I think will be strong enough in the long run, though I admit that if there's a weak spot in the chest, it's the groove in the cherry. I suppose only time will tell, though.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Today was productive. I got the front and back panels glued up and assembled.
This pecan is not exactly easy to work, even with sharp edges. The strength of the wood will be worth it in the long run, I hope.
My resawing job on the bandsaw was, um, irregular to say the least. The jack plane saw a LOT of action. I'm starting to wish I had a surface planer, just for rough thicknessing.
On some edges I had to get really aggressive.
As you can see, some bugs got into the bark side here. Fortunately they didn't get in very deep, so the board was salvageable.
My fancy glue-up job. The only clamps I had on hand for the battens were the handscrews. Awkward, but effective.
Here's the back panel all assembled and glued up. The floating panel is 14"X28" and is made from four boards glued up. They are all perfectly quarter-sawn, so I don't think movement will be much of an issue. I drawbored the joints on the panel, so glue probably wasn't necessary, but I put it in out of sheer habit.
And the front panel. This floating panel is made up of only three boards glued up. The glue lines have a couple very small gaps, but the figure on the wood makes them invisible. Got to love that strip of heartwood running across the middle.
Planing spalted wood is like slowly unwrapping a Christmas present. Each shaving you take reveals something a little different. I'm saving the boards with the wildest spalting for the lid.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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cputnam
Member
Registered: 01/28/03
Posts: 3731
Loc: Southern California
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It's gonna be gorgeous! Your family is going to have beautiful furniture in the dining room after all.
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Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
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MMDon
Member
Registered: 01/14/12
Posts: 487
Loc: S. E. Idaho
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Bibliophile 13 said:
Today was productive. I got the front and back panels glued up and assembled.
This pecan is not exactly easy to work, even with sharp edges. The strength of the wood will be worth it in the long run, I hope.
My resawing job on the bandsaw was, um, irregular to say the least. The jack plane saw a LOT of action. I'm starting to wish I had a surface planer, just for rough thicknessing.
On some edges I had to get really aggressive.
As you can see, some bugs got into the bark side here. Fortunately they didn't get in very deep, so the board was salvageable.
My fancy glue-up job. The only clamps I had on hand for the battens were the handscrews. Awkward, but effective.
Here's the back panel all assembled and glued up. The floating panel is 14"X28" and is made from four boards glued up. They are all perfectly quarter-sawn, so I don't think movement will be much of an issue. I drawbored the joints on the panel, so glue probably wasn't necessary, but I put it in out of sheer habit.
And the front panel. This floating panel is made up of only three boards glued up. The glue lines have a couple very small gaps, but the figure on the wood makes them invisible. Got to love that strip of heartwood running across the middle.
Planing spalted wood is like slowly unwrapping a Christmas present. Each shaving you take reveals something a little different. I'm saving the boards with the wildest spalting for the lid.
That panel is as pretty as a landscape painting!
Sweeeeeeeeeeeet!
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Turning big pieces of wood into small pieces of wood
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TucsonLawrence
pot stirrer
Registered: 03/11/10
Posts: 1799
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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Man, that is a GREAT start and I can't wait. IMHO, Those draw-borne joints should be plenty strong once all four sides of the frame are supported.
Lawrence
psst-- we all always need more clamps- no matter how many we have!
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my portfolio
http://s171.photobucket.com/user/ldr_klr/slideshow/portfolio?sort=6
The "he" is always lower case - Steve Martin
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JustinTyson
Tree guru
Registered: 01/06/11
Posts: 1334
Loc: McComb, MS
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Great job on the grain matching in that second panel! You must really be a glutton for punishment for thicknessing pecan by hand. If I didn't have a surface planer, every board that came through my shop would be white pine/sassafras/basswood/clear cedar or some other ridiculously soft wood 
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"If I had eight hours to cut down a tree, I'd spend six hours sharpening my axe." -Abraham Lincoln
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Skip J.
Member
Registered: 12/08/06
Posts: 2683
Loc: Sugar Land, Texas
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Bibliophile 13 said:
Today was productive. I got the front and back panels glued up and assembled.
This pecan is not exactly easy to work, even with sharp edges. The strength of the wood will be worth it in the long run, I hope. And the front panel. This floating panel is made up of only three boards glued up. The glue lines have a couple very small gaps, but the figure on the wood makes them invisible. Got to love that strip of heartwood running across the middle.
Planing spalted wood is like slowly unwrapping a Christmas present. Each shaving you take reveals something a little different. I'm saving the boards with the wildest spalting for the lid.
Hello Steve;
I had a feeling that you had something special in mind for the pecan......, looking forward to seeing the rest...
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Skip
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SeanA
Member
Registered: 03/19/10
Posts: 576
Loc: Northern VA
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Looking fantastic! Keep up the good works (and pics!)
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"Yes it works in practice, but will it work in theory?" (Roy Underhill)
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Looking good Steve, I really like the contrast in the wood. Anxious for more follow ups.
Thanks for sharing !
Steve
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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JustinTyson said:
You must really be a glutton for punishment for thicknessing pecan by hand.
Um, yeah. I guess I am. 
Normally I wouldn't go to the trouble with a wood this tough, but since it's a special project for me, and since the wood has all the properties I want (nicely figured, very tough, not prone to splitting) I decided to bite the bullet. I'm going to have bullet-shaped indentations in my teeth by the time I'm done.
Anyhow, spring break is now over, so progress will be slower from here on out. Got to do the panels for the side next, and then I'll assemble the carcase, nail on the bottom, and put on the skirt. Then I'll get started on the lid.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Bob-Jones
Member
Registered: 12/26/10
Posts: 162
Loc: Hernando, MS
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Nice work! I am confused by one point, you said you drawbored the joints on the panel, so glue probably wasn't necessary. Did you mean the frame?
Thanks for posting, it's nice work.
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that you also aspire to lead a quiet life, to mind your own business, and to work with your own hands, as we commanded you...
1 Thessalonians 4:11
my blog - thechristiantoolcabinet.wordpress.com
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mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
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Bibliophile 13 said:
My resawing job on the bandsaw was, um, irregular to say the least. The jack plane saw a LOT of action. I'm starting to wish I had a surface planer, just for rough thicknessing.
Find one like this- http://sarasota.craigslist.org/tls/2898576029.html
They are usually cheap on craigslist. They have cheap disposable blades but do a decent job. I had one of these before I went bonkers and got a full sized 15" cast iron planer. I milled a lot of wood with it. Best thing for you is it can be stored in the garage and used with just the deflector and no dust collector. Also works on regular 110.
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Brad
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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@Bob: Yes, I did mean the frame. The panel itself is a glue-up, but floats in the grooves like normal.
Anyhow, progress!
I glued up the side panels the other day. I'll let you in on a little secret and show you where the glue lines are:
Now that the panel is planed down, the glue lines are invisible. I really like sprung joints.
Here is a picture of the back of the carcase dry-fit:
My apologies about the dark photos, but I didn't have time to get good light set up.
Here's the front and the other side:
Again, sorry about the bad photo. Once the cherry gets a suntan and I put some Danish oil on it, the colors will really pop.
Now to nail on a bottom and start on the skirt and the lid.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Steve that is going to be one  looking chest. I have a question and please excuse if it is a dumb question or I missed it in your posts, but how are you tying everything together ??
It is early and I haven't had my 1st cup of Joe yet, so I am not clicking on all 8 cylinders yet  .
Steve
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Brian K
#2
Registered: 03/27/08
Posts: 1408
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
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I'm not steve, but it appears to be through mortise and tenon near the corners.
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"Mark my words......blood will flow as a result of this MSM bias." -- MountainWood 04/07/12 10:34 AM. We shall see....
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Brian is right. Through-M&T up near the corners. I've been practicing haunched tenons to go into the gaps left by the grooves. If anyone has a consistent, foolproof way of getting the haunch exactly the right height, I'm all ears.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Thank You Brian and Steve for your answer I understand it now. Looking forward to more of you progress pictures.
Thanks again !
Steve
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Just a small amount of progress. I got the bottom nailed on last night:
You will notice that not all the boards are the same thickness. That's intentional... sort of...
It all kind of came together serendipitously. I had a fairly wide 5/4 cedar board that I wanted to use for the bottom, but I didn't have enough to cover the whole bottom. I did, however, have a couple 4/4 poplar off-cuts from a previous project that just fit into the gaps. The casters I have are 2" tall, so I decided to put the thin boards on the ends, where the casters would be attached, and put the thick boards in the center. And now my tool chest smells like a cedar blanket chest inside.
FWIW, shiplapping boards of uneven thicknesses is an added challenge. But between my Veritas plow and my Stanley 78, I got everything fitted okay.
Now to make the lower apron, which will be dovetailed around the bottom. It should add a little rigidity to the carcase, which feels just a little bit delicate. Once the skirt and the dust seal are on, though, it will feel plenty beefy.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Harlan Barnhart
Member
Registered: 05/10/09
Posts: 213
Loc: New York City
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Patiently waiting for another update....
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cputnam
Member
Registered: 01/28/03
Posts: 3731
Loc: Southern California
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Looking good so far. Just as with Derek's bench, love the pics and wait impatiently for them.
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Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
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woodworkerswife
Member
Registered: 05/03/11
Posts: 40
Loc: misplaced Hoosier
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Sorry, I'm hogging the workbench right now.
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(to my daughter) "NO! Don't eat the woodshavings!"
my husband's response: "A little fiber won't hurt her."
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Finally, I get to do some dovetailing in this project.
The skirt is dovetailed around the bottom of the carcase. I laid my skirt boards around the carcase and marked them with knife lines so they would fit snugly and precisely.
I'm getting better at dovetailing. In hardwoods, I like to saw out my waste with a coping saw:
Two tails and three pins should hold everything together nicely. There's a little sapwood at the bottom all around, which should provide a nice color mirror to the light colored panels.
All my dovetails fit right off the saw, though you can see a little gap in this one. I shimmed three other little gaps.
I glued the skirt on and nailed it on from the inside for good measure. I'm putting casters on the bottom eventually, so the skirt needn't support any weight, but it could if it had to.
I planed a small chamfer all around the skirt. I started planing on the tail boards and then planed the pin boards so as to clean up any break-out on the exit side. To my eye the chamfer is too small. I'm going to make it bigger.
And that's as far as I've gotten. I have some nice stock picked out for the lid, but first I'm going to start installing the guts. I'd rather install the guts without having to work around an open lid. The plan is a chisel rack on the front, a saw till for four saws, and an open area on the bottom for planes. I'll also put in two levels of sliding trays. The rails will get put in now, but I'll build the trays later.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
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Nice work..... I really like your tool chest. I cant wait to see it with the finish on. That is going to just pop!
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Brad
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Looking Good Steve, keep it coming.
Thanks for sharing !
Steve
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Blacky's Boy
Moderator
Registered: 06/17/07
Posts: 8976
Loc: Buck's County PA USA
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looking good my friend! Looking good! Nice job on the dovetails. When cutting dovetails I also like to saw out the waste with a coping saw.
I like the addition of the skirt around the base. I also like the idea of putting wheels on it (I think CS did that with his).
In regards to casters, have you picked them out yet? If not I would recommend getting a set of good ones. I built a number of mobile cabinets for my shop and learned the hard way to always get good quality casters.  (Stay away from the ones at Home Depot!!   ) Nothing is more annoying than a set of casters that won't do their job because they are so badly made.
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See ya around,
Dominic
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak
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Skip J.
Member
Registered: 12/08/06
Posts: 2683
Loc: Sugar Land, Texas
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Blacky's Boy said:
looking good my friend! Looking good! Nice job on the dovetails. When cutting dovetails I also like to saw out the waste with a coping saw.
I like the addition of the skirt around the base. I also like the idea of putting wheels on it (I think CS did that with his).
In regards to casters, have you picked them out yet? If not I would recommend getting a set of good ones. I built a number of mobile cabinets for my shop and learned the hard way to always get good quality casters. (Stay away from the ones at Home Depot!! ) Nothing is more annoying than a set of casters that won't do their job because they are so badly made.
+1...
I rehabbed an old toy chest into a tool chest - well my son did most of the work - and wanted it to be sturdy enough for roughing around the garage... so I put heavy duty casters at each corner and in the middle. Had to go to a specialty hardware store to get good ones.... HD's were minimalistic to barely passable.....
Very nice chest Steve, well done!
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Skip
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beginningwoodworker
Future cabinetmaker
Registered: 08/19/02
Posts: 9044
Loc: Montgomery Alabama USA
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Nice job, I need to build me a tool chest!
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My Boss is a Jewish Carpenter!
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Peter Tremblay
Banjo Pickin Priest
Registered: 10/29/07
Posts: 18218
Loc: Kensington, CT
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Wow that is beautiful.
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Peter
Do you want a better world?
Then, forgive those who didn't ask for it.
Love those who dislike you.
Show patience and kindness to those that you disagree with.
And allow others to disagree with you.
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2603
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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Nice dovetailing, and that chest is going to be an absolute showpiece!
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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I bought some 2" casters at...
wait for it...
Harbor Freight.
I know, I know, not the best source for most stuff, but compared to the casters available at the bigger home improvement centers, the HF ones actually looked pretty substantial and well-built. Time will tell, I suppose, but if there's anything that's easy to replace on this tool chest, it's the casters. Unlike Schwarz's tool chest, the skirt on mine drops down well below the bottom of the chest and will conceal the casters almost entirely.
Last night I cut out the pieces for the lid's frame and started planing them. I broke the tote on my jointer, and that put a stop to everything. It was a pretty clean break, and the epoxy should be fully cured by the time I pick the plane back up this afternoon. In the meantime, I need to resaw some SYP to 1/2" for a lot of the guts, such as the chisel rack and saw till.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
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make sure those casters are non skid....
Woodcraft and now lee valley sell some nice polyurathane casters that might work and roll better once that thing is loaded.
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Brad
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Tonight I was working on the guts of the tool chest, which I'm making from SYP. No fine joinery here. It's just dimentioning stock and sticking it on with nails and screws. For the record, it's easier to sink pilot holes into pecan than it is to drive wire nails into it. In case anybody was wondering.
The chisel rack is complete. It's simply two long bars with a spacer on each end. The wide, bottom board is really to protect my hands when I go fishing down in the saw till. If I get really crazy, I might install some spacers between the chisels after the fact, but this works great right now. I already love how accessible each chisel is.
The saw till was the really challenging part. First of all, how to space the saws? I guess I could have paced it off, or I could have done some fancy fractional measurements, but this is what I came up with:
Use the tenon saw to saw a kerf across a piece of scrap and set in your first saw. Stick one saw into the kerf. Then decide (by eye) how far apart you want your saws. Saw another kerf next to the first one, and so on and so forth, until you have your saws set out. Mine are pretty tightly arranged--four saws squeezed into three inches of width.
In The Anarchist's Tool Chest, Schwarz suggests making each kerf 1/8" wide. He doesn't say how he did it, though. With a table saw? Carefully on a band saw? I didn't feel like running down to my band saw, so I just decided to rip them by hand.
Very carefully. I used my big rip saw to cut a kerf on each side of a line, and then used a coping saw to knock out the middle piece. It worked pretty well.
Here is the saw till placed in front of the chisel rack:
My dovetail saw is small enough to fit into the chisel rack.
And the saw till fixed in place. I screwed battens into each side to keep the till in place. Low-tech but effective.
Next chance I get, I'll be putting in rails for the two tool trays, and then I'll build the lid.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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MauleSkinner
Member
Registered: 12/31/06
Posts: 1861
Loc: Wichita, KS
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I like the chisel rack...simple and effective!
David
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Dave Arbuckle was kind enough to create a Sketchup model of my WorkMate benchtop: http://www.arbolloco.com/sketchup/MauleSkinnerBenchtop.skp
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Isaac S
Member
Registered: 05/27/09
Posts: 838
Loc: Doe Run, PA
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You are really making me want to build one now. I'm a sucker for spalted wood, and those panels you made are just gorgeous.
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Isaac
Blackburn Tools - woodworking tools old & new
Blog
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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This project is taking a lot longer than I thought it would.
I've had the frame made for a week, and the other day I got the panel stock dimensioned and glued up.
That's made of four pieces of 7/8" pecan edge-glued together. With figured wood, you have to be very careful with grain matching, otherwise your glue lines will visually pop where the figure abruptly shifts. (Much as I like the look of curly woods, I don't like curly panels glued up from several pieces, since the curls never match up.) With the spalting, it was relatively easy to hide the glue lines.
A frame-and-panel lid for a tool chest should use a different kind of floating panel. Schwarz explains it in his book, but so does Roy Underhill in one of his. It's not tongue-and-groove construction; it's groove-and-groove. The bottom lip of the groove in the panel fits into the groove in the frame. It's a pretty cool visual effect when put together, I must say.
It does, however, mean plowing a groove in the end-grain of the panel.
In a hard wood like pecan, you have to take thin shavings, but it works really well. These are all end-grain shavings.
When planing end-grain, it's always a challenge to prevent blow-out on the exit side. Here's a simple way to prevent it:
(1) Start plowing your grooves in the long grain, just enough to define your groove along the whole edge.
(2) Use a chisel the same width as the plane iron to cut a chamfer inside the end of the groove, like this:
And with the waste removed:
Go down far enough that the groove in the end grain will bottom out before the chamfer disappears.
(3) Now plane the end grain, and you'll get little or no blow-out.
(4) Finally, finish planing the long grain.
For groove-and-groove construction, set your plow plane's fence exactly the width of your iron. When plowing the grooves in the frame pieces, reference the fence on the face of the stock. Then, without changing the setting of the plane, plow grooves in the panel referencing from the bottom. If the plane was set accurately, the grooves should match up perfectly. Mine were pretty close. 
And here's the lid assembled:
I drawbored the M&Ts, and while the glue was probably superfluous, I glued the joints as well, just for good measure. The drawbore pins are made of pecan heart wood, and are extremely tough. The dark color should blend in nicely with the cherry once it darkens.
Next up: the dust seal.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Scoony
Honored Veteran
Registered: 01/28/06
Posts: 3241
Loc: Kentucky
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That lid is looking really nice.
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mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
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Sooo nice.
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Brad
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Jonathan S
Member
Registered: 08/14/06
Posts: 2345
Loc: Anchorage, Alaska
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Wow, that spalted pecan is spectacular!! Gonna be the best looking chest around. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
Jonathan
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My New Blog:The Alaska Woodworker
“Think about it: Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge
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shoottx
Member
Registered: 06/25/08
Posts: 1247
Loc: Plano Tx
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Steve
I have been watching this from the start, very impressive! I really, really like the top, it is gorgeous! It will add a spectacular finishing effect to a great chest.
The only question I have is, why no dividers between the chisels? I would have guessed a couple of small extra dividers would have added a little more stability for keeping them upright.
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Often in Error, Never in Doubt
Mike Jury
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Blacky's Boy
Moderator
Registered: 06/17/07
Posts: 8976
Loc: Buck's County PA USA
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Nice!
I really love the look of the spalted pecan panel.
And I know exactly what you are talking about when you say it' easier to hide a glue line on spalted woods rather than curly variety. The coloration is so busy that the joint line almost gets "lost in the sauce"
That tip about working the straight grain first and adding the chamfer when plowing the groove is worth it's weight in gold! I wish someone had told me about that before I attempted to do the same operation back last year. But now I know and fore warned is fore armed!
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See ya around,
Dominic
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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I will be adding a couple dividers between the chisels, but I wanted to try out the chisel rack as-is first. With so many chisels wedged in there, the whole rack tends to bow out slightly. I don't need dividers between each chisel, but two or three to separate different sets are definitely in order. After all, I want to be able to replace individual chisels (or even whole sets) without having to change the rack.
The saw till just lifts out, giving me quick access to the chisel rack to modify it. It won't be but a few minutes' work.
Says the guy who took a month to build a frame-and-panel lid... 
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Steve ....... You have done a really nice job and like others have mentioned your splated Pecan ROCKS. Great job on what you have so far and looking forward for the finished project.
Thanks for sharing !
Steve
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AndyM
Member
Registered: 11/07/09
Posts: 978
Loc: Grants Pass, Oregon
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Steve,
If you are like me, you will rearrange your tools several times as you gain experience working from the chest. It's good that you are making it to be modified.
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Andy Margeson
My blog
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2603
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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What's in a name? That which we call spalted pecan
By any other name would look as sweet.....
Ok, I butchered it, but it's kinda like Shakespeare.... I thought you might enjoy that, Steve.
I have several comments about this build. First, you seem to have lots of spalted pecan. Has anyone besides me noticed that Steve is the only one on woodnet that has this?? C'mon, give it up - how do you get this stuff? My brother has 60 acres of river bottom covered in pecan trees. I ask him what it is good for, and he says "Firewood, if you burn it fast - otherwise it rots" (he's not a woodworker). What's your secret?
Second, you mention this is taking a long time - so what? You are going to enjoy this for years to come.
Third, you talked about cutting the kerfs for the saw till by hand to get them wide enough. That was impressive. I just did a saw till for the garage wall, and I used the "Power Bowsaw" (as AndyM calls it). In my defense, I was doing 40 of them, but still that is nice work cutting to a line that you did.
Really enjoying your posts on this build.
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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Toscageoff
Honored Veteran
Registered: 07/11/07
Posts: 747
Loc: Ipswich ENGLAND
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Greetings
Looking good so far , however with just a 3 inch space for the saws and the "bar" across the top front of the saw till can you access each saw easily without removing the till from the box?
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Regards
Toscageoff
Work Safely
WTH is an assignation?? WM 01/08/08
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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BaileyNo5: it's okay. People have been butchering Shakespeare for centuries now, and since Romeo & Juliet is just about my least favorite of his plays, by all means chop the lines up for dog food.
As to all the spalted pecan, well, it's a long story. Most of it looks like this:
Those are 5' sections of pecan buried under 4' and 3' sections of walnut log. (I am SO glad I got myself a froe.) The pecan spalted entirely by accident. A neighbor was having a tree taken down, and I asked the tree service guy if I could have a log. He was kind enough to drop it in my front yard, where I proceeded to attempt to split it up. I managed to split the log into thirds, and then I strained my back and had to let the pieces just lie there for three months. By the time I got the rest split up and under cover, there was some serious spalting going on. I've been slowly sawing it up on the bandsaw and stacking it up.
Toscageoff: The saw till is a very tight fit, and no, it's not particularly easy to reach in and grab a saw. But since I have a saw till on my wall above the bench, I don't anticipate storing many saws in the chest most of the time. It's mainly for traveling with them, should that become necessary. It's much easier to keep my most regularly used saws up on the wall.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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More progress, finally!
School is out for the summer, so I now have a little time to get this thing finished.
It's going to be mostly pics tonight. I'll do a full write-up of this stage on my blog later on.
Attaching the dovetailed dust seal to the lid. Not real proud of the dovetailing job, but they'll hold. Shims work wonders with appearances.
How to get the dust seal on just right. Turn the whole chest upside down on top of the lid and set the pieces on the protruding lid so as to get a reasonably tight fit. It doesn't eliminate all human error, but it beats trying to measure the stuff.
Attaching the dust seal to the carcase. Yes, the sides bow in a little bit under the clamping pressure. They sprung right back when I removed the clamps.
The finished product:
Tomorrow I will install the hardware--hinges, latch, and casters. Then I'll do a final scraping of the show surfaces and put a finish on it.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Wow that looks spectacular, beautiful job Steve. Thanks for sharing your journey. I hope to get mine started before long, but it won't be as pretty as yours since I will be using pine and poplar with a Milk Paint finish.
Steve
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John's Woodshop
Honored Veteran
Registered: 11/13/02
Posts: 4216
Loc: Racine, Wisconsin
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Steve......
Outstanding Tool Chest. Great wood selection!
John
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"Woodworking, it's not just a hobby, it's an adventure."
John's Woodshop
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Blacky's Boy
Moderator
Registered: 06/17/07
Posts: 8976
Loc: Buck's County PA USA
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Wow, that looks GREAT!!!
What kind of finish were you thinking? Some kind of oil/varnish, right?
Yeah, I can see it now. Covering up all that beautifully figured wood with MILK PAINT!
Personally I think "tradition be damned!". Nothing that spectacular should ever be covered up by paint.
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See ya around,
Dominic
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Well, as much fun as it would be to paint it and then let a future generation "discover" the figured wood when they attempt to refinish it, I think I'm going with a home-brew Danish oil this time. It will be the same thing I use for tool handles and wooden spoons, and I like what it does to the color of these woods.
I am SO GLAD to be FINALLY near completion. It's been driving me crazy seeing it sitting there half-finished for a month.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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BaileyNo5
Member
Registered: 11/29/09
Posts: 2603
Loc: Calgary but confess I'm Okie
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Very nice work and beautiful results. An heirloom piece, for sure.
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True power makes no noise. Albert Schweitzer - It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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Skip J.
Member
Registered: 12/08/06
Posts: 2683
Loc: Sugar Land, Texas
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Bibliophile 13 said:
Well, as much fun as it would be to paint it and then let a future generation "discover" the figured wood when they attempt to refinish it, I think I'm going with a home-brew Danish oil this time. It will be the same thing I use for tool handles and wooden spoons, and I like what it does to the color of these woods.
I am SO GLAD to be FINALLY near completion. It's been driving me crazy seeing it sitting there half-finished for a month.
Hi Steve;
I have been following your progress almost every day and I must say that you really have done it all here.... looking forward to the finished chest!
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Skip
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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As promised, I did actually do a fuller write-up of the dust seal attachment here on my blog. Apologies about the material repeated from this thread.
I have since put on the hinges and am about to go cut the mortise for the latch. Wish me luck.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Phil S.
Member
Registered: 04/24/12
Posts: 393
Loc: 58.4° N 134.5° W
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Aha! The truth comes out. I thought you were being pretty tight with only four slots in your saw till. Now we know that most of them are hanging on the wall. I was disappointed for a bit there.
Phil
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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It's finally finished!
But before I jump ahead to the glamor shots, I need to look at hardware installation. Hinge installation was straightforward. I REALLY like the butt hinges from Horton. I thought about getting three but settled on two because, well, they come in pairs, and what would I do with an extra hinge? I later found out that you can easily order a half pair of hinges--i.e. a single hinge--from Horton. Oh well.
I got a 3" half-mortise box lock from Horton Brasses. Perhaps I should have gone with the larger chest lock, but this one worked out fine. I've seen quite a few tutorials online for installing half-mortise locks, and to be honest, I've not found them very helpful. Here's how I installed it.
Installing a lock is a challenge because the carcase is already assembled, so you have limited clearance above the latch when the box is on its side. There are special drawer lock chisels for people who do this kind of thing frequently, but I found another way.
Layout is pretty simple, but precision is crucial. I drilled the keyhole first. Everything centers around that. A combination of knife lines and gauge lines puts everything in place. Now it's time to cut the mortise.
Taking a cue from Roy Underhill who demonstrates mortise chisel use by clamping a piece of plexiglass to one side of a board, I decided to do something similar. I clamped a board to the inside of the carcase, turning a half-mortise into a full mortise.
Now I'm on familiar turf. Just drill out the bulk of the waste with a brace and bit.
With the board removed, it looks like this:
Clean it up with a chisel...
And it looks like a proper mortise. A router plane trues up the wall. Quick, simple, and no special tools required.
I scored the outside lines deeply and used a router plane to carefully remove the rest of the waste. That was delicate work, but not difficult.
Installing the catch on the underside of the lid was a bit trickier because of the dust seal. The router plane won't fit in there, for one.
I was able to use a cutting gauge with the blade extended to score two of the lines. The other two were done carefully with a knife and square. Then I slowly excavated the waste with a chisel.
It all came together in the end, though.
Meanwhile, on the outside I used a #13 auger bit to make a space for my escutcheon in the dust seal, which wasn't quite wide enough to seat it alone. I squared the sides of the hole with a chisel and tacked on the escutcheon.
A couple screws and an old shoelace make for a fine strap.
My daughter helped me apply the Danish Oil finish.
I'm pretty pleased.
Edited by Bibliophile 13 (05/23/12 10:55 PM)
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Oldtoolalf
Member
Registered: 04/05/04
Posts: 902
Loc: Cornwall, UK
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Bibliophile 13 said:
I'm pretty pleased.
No kidding! Splendid result.
Cheers, Alf
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"Geez, I got a dozen nailguns. ...I just huff-n-puff on the end of a short hose to make 'em fire off. That's how much a galoot I am." MikeW, 03/08/07
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Steve ......... You should be pleased ah heck take a bow you deserve it. That turned out beautiful and obviously it will be very functional as well. I love your wood choice and your homebrew really pops the grain.
When I get around to mine it will be pine and poplar with a milk paint finish. Yours is a piece of furniture, well done.
Thanks for sharing your journey and enjoy your new tool storage. What next ? I can't wait to see what you come up with.
Steve
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cputnam
Member
Registered: 01/28/03
Posts: 3731
Loc: Southern California
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"pretty pleased" indeed! Very well and nicely done! I'm going to have to re-read the whole thing on your blog.
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Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
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Blacky's Boy
Moderator
Registered: 06/17/07
Posts: 8976
Loc: Buck's County PA USA
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Holy crap that's stunning!!!
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See ya around,
Dominic
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak
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AztecKing
Member
Registered: 08/10/04
Posts: 411
Loc: Winfield, KS
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That is beautiful!! Thanks for the write-up.
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It's time for the patriots to stand up!
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shoottx
Member
Registered: 06/25/08
Posts: 1247
Loc: Plano Tx
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Yup, you should be pleased on a couple different fronts.
The chest is stunningly beautiful, and you have a gorgeous model helping with the stain. She sure is growing up!
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Often in Error, Never in Doubt
Mike Jury
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Ace Karner
Honored Veteran
Registered: 09/25/04
Posts: 911
Loc: Royse City, Texas
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Great work Steve, That chest is so nice it would look out of place in my living room.
Hard to believe that is the same little one that I met at Dowd's before you guys moved from Texas. They grow up so fast.
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If you can't find the time to do it right the first time,
When are you going to find the time to do it again?
Ace
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Corneel
Member
Registered: 12/28/07
Posts: 1693
Loc: The Netherlands
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Nice nice nice!
And good to see you have such a splendid helper.
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seekelot.blogspot.com
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Jonathan S
Member
Registered: 08/14/06
Posts: 2345
Loc: Anchorage, Alaska
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WOW, that is spectacular! I love the spalted pecan. Nice job.
Jonathan
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My New Blog:The Alaska Woodworker
“Think about it: Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Ace Karner said:
Great work Steve, That chest is so nice it would look out of place in my living room.
Hard to believe that is the same little one that I met at Dowd's before you guys moved from Texas. They grow up so fast.
Ace, it's not the same one. That's my second daughter in the picture above. The one you met in Texas is even bigger now!
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
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Okay, last update.
Now that I have made the dovetailed sliding trays, the chest is complete. I built them from southern yellow pine that I sawed out of a 2X6. The sides came out to about 3/8" thick and the bottoms, which are nailed on, are about 1/4" thick. Chris Schwarz used oak for the bottoms because of wear resistance. I don't think my sliding trays will get quite the mileage that his will, though, so I opted for pine because I had it to hand.
[digression] Funny story about the pine for the bottoms, though. You know how some boards will cup badly right after planing? After I planed down the bottoms, I left one on my bench but tossed the other one inside my tool chest. The one that I left out did develop a major cup in a matter of hours. The one in the tool chest didn't cup at all. I managed to flatten out the cupped one with a couple of hand screws, but it had me worried for a minute there. It also got me thinking. I've noticed that tools kept in a wooden box tend to develop less rust than tools kept in a metal box. My theory is that the wood in the box acts as a humidity regulator, absorbing excess moisture before it can condense on the tools. I suspect that the wood movement issue is related. One more reason to store tools in a wooden box. [/digression]
Anyhow, the trays are both 7" wide and hold most of my smaller tools.
The top tray is relatively shallow–about 3" deep–and holds my layout tools and my sharpening kit. There's also a block plane and a few other items in there.
The bottom tray is deeper–about 5" deep–and contains files, card scrapers, gauges, and a couple joinery planes. The drawer sides and runners are waxed with paraffin so that they slide smoothly. As with regular drawers, the more snugly they fit, the easier they slide. I may add some pulls or knobs to the bottom tray later.
The top tray is just a little longer than the bottom tray, so as to make both trays easily removable. The top runner also serves as a guide for the bottom tray, which runs neatly over the top of the saw till.
Underneath you see my bench planes, mallets, and a few other larger items. I'm still deciding on where different tools will go permanently. My hammer and hatchets need to go in the bottom, too, and my plow plane may move up into one of the tills. We'll see.
The front rack holds chisels, gouges, and a few other tools of similar shape. My joinery saws go in the till with saw sharpening tools and spare tool parts underneath.
Now it's time to quit building stuff for my tools and start building stuff for my family again.
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Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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Bozz
Member
Registered: 12/31/07
Posts: 1051
Loc: Above Los Angeles
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Again, just an AWESOME job!
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Window Guy
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/03/01
Posts: 10244
Loc: St. Cloud,Fl., USA
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Steve that chest turned out very nice and not only does it look fantastic it is very functional, great job.
I have enjoyed your build along very much, thanks for sharing.
Steve
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