Aram
Member
Registered: 01/04/04
Posts: 2938
Loc: Danville, CA
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I'm making veneered panels for a bed. I've done this before, but I wonder if I'm making my life too hard:
1. When I saw, I alternate between the jointer and the bandsaw. So each piece of veneer (1/8" thick, maple in this case) has a jointed face, and a face with saw marks.
Can I run them through my planer? I've always been too chicken -- figured they get blown to pieces. If it matters (probably not), my power planer has a Shelix head.
If the answer is no, then....
2. After I edge glue the veneer pieces, I clean up the joints and get them mostly flat. This is a lot of work with hand planes and scrapers. Then I glue them to the plywood. I always glue the jointed side, which leaves the bandsawn side showing -- which means another round of hand planing/scraping to get rid of saw marks, clean up, etc.
Second question is, can I just glue to the bandsawn side? Assuming that I've gotten it reasonably flat first. I use Unibond 800.
Thanks!
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Best,
Aram
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
Edited by Aram (05/28/12 11:33 AM)
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DonJuvet
Hasn't learned
Registered: 06/03/08
Posts: 1692
Loc: Northern Cal
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or.... drive to Placerville and run it thru the Timesaver 
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Woodwork... It's what I do for a living.
(well, such as it may be, It's my job)
((cept my boss is a @#!*&))
I think I'm gonna fire myself for that
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rayknight
Member
Registered: 12/12/07
Posts: 783
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You can run thinner stock through a standard 15" planer, if you build a melamine table/sled. Cleat under the front to hold in position, eliminated the bottom rollers, allows the thin stock to ride on the smooth surface, I've gone to 1/8, nothing lost trying to go thinner, just go slowly. and wax the melamine, and put smooth side down. Good luck. Ray
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fredhargis
Member
Registered: 08/21/03
Posts: 5621
Loc: Waynesfield, Ohio
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I've never been able to plane anything that thin, but you can always try with one piece and see what happens. I wouldn't try gluing the bandsawn side down...you will be really unhappy with the result. You might be able to plane after you glue it to the substrate, if it's of a size that will fit through your planer...but a better solution (of you do a lot of this) would be to use a drum sander. I suppose you could also use a hand plane after the veneer is glued to the substrate as well.
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Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy...(Benjamin Franklin)
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Aram
Member
Registered: 01/04/04
Posts: 2938
Loc: Danville, CA
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DonJuvet said:
or.... drive to Placerville and run it thru the Timesaver
Dude. I wish! 
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Best,
Aram
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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Aram
Member
Registered: 01/04/04
Posts: 2938
Loc: Danville, CA
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rayknight said:
You can run thinner stock through a standard 15" planer, if you build a melamine table/sled. Cleat under the front to hold in position, eliminated the bottom rollers, allows the thin stock to ride on the smooth surface, I've gone to 1/8, nothing lost trying to go thinner, just go slowly. and wax the melamine, and put smooth side down. Good luck. Ray
Thanks, that should be easy enough to try.
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Best,
Aram
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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daveferg
member
Registered: 02/19/02
Posts: 39668
Loc: Cloverdale, CA, USA
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First off I don't think alternating between the jointer and band saw is a waste time---good practice.
Depending on the size of the panels, you could always glue the jointed side down to the substraight and then run it through the planer---or as suggested, you could build a sled.
But, if you plan to do a lot of home made veneer work, I'd think seriously about getting a drum sander. I bought one because I got sick and tired of being over-charged for crumby veneered plywood. A drum sander can give you much thinner pieces than a planer.
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Dave
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Aram
Member
Registered: 01/04/04
Posts: 2938
Loc: Danville, CA
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daveferg said:
First off I don't think alternating between the jointer and band saw is a waste time---good practice.
Thanks. To clarify, I'm not questioning this step. Just the rest of the process.
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Best,
Aram
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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John Fry
Member
Registered: 05/06/03
Posts: 4625
Loc: Acton, CA
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daveferg said:
First off I don't think alternating between the jointer and band saw is a waste time---good practice.
Depending on the size of the panels, you could always glue the jointed side down to the substraight and then run it through the planer---or as suggested, you could build a sled.
But, if you plan to do a lot of home made veneer work, I'd think seriously about getting a drum sander. I bought one because I got sick and tired of being over-charged for crumby veneered plywood. A drum sander can give you much thinner pieces than a planer.
Yep! A drum sander is the key to great shop sawn veneers.
BUT, I disagree with going back to the jointer if you can avoid it. If you use the "joint-slice-joint" method and try to beat the work of smoothing by gluing either the rough side down to show the smooth sides, or glue the smooth side down and joint after the fact, you remove all possibility of perfect bookmatches. I'd rather make sure my veneer is oversized and clamp or glue the ends down and use a belt sander to smooth it.
I have a drum sander so;
As far as the jointer goes, I NEVER go back to the jointer between slices, it wastes too much material. I joint one face and both edges and then I slice away without ever stopping.
I can resaw at 3/32" thick and take my veneers to the drum sander and make two passes on each side, at 1/128" with each pass, removing material (and the sawmarks) and end up with beautiful, smooth, 1/16" thick veneers.
I know, I know! It's true, I have expensive equipment, but before I made that investment, I sliced a lot of shop sawn veneer on my old Griz 14" BS with 6" riser. After I bought my first Performax 16 - 32 drum sander, I was off and running!
If you don't care about bookmatches, and you don't see a drum sander in your future, I think the glue down the smooth, and plane the rough is the safest method. Especially if you don't have any snipe problems. Be very careful to read your grain directions and patterns.
Good luck!
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John
Chisel And Bit
Custom Crafted Furniture
www.chiselandbit.com
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Aram
Member
Registered: 01/04/04
Posts: 2938
Loc: Danville, CA
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Thanks, John! I was hoping you'd offer up a post.
A drum sander is not in my immediate (or not-so-immediate) future. It would be nice for this, I admit. I could fit one in my living room...
I dislike the jointer waste too, but for now it sounds like I should keep doing what I've been doing. Luckily, for this particular project book matching is not an issue.
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Best,
Aram
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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