18 Pieces of Flair
Member
Registered: 07/21/03
Posts: 196
Loc: Malvern, PA
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I posted earlier that I'm new to turning and anxious to keep learning. On my drive home from work today, I heard the buzz of the chainsaws in my neighborhood went to investigate. Traded a six pack of Guinness for this stack of freshly cut wood.
Biggest one was about 16" wide:
Smaller pieces came in around 8-9"
Can't really tell what type of wood it is. Tree guy thought it was "Chestnut/Oak."
How'd I do? And, more importantly, what's next?? I think I'm supposed to cut the smaller pieces right down the middle and seal the ends, but how about the larger ones? And is it enough to seal with latex paint, or do I need to find Anchorseal? And how long do I have before I have to seal them?
Thanks for all the help!
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clovishound
Honored Veteran
Registered: 03/01/06
Posts: 7051
Loc: summerville SC
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Quote:
And how long do I have before I have to seal them
You haven't sealed them yet? Seriously, the sooner you seal them, the less trouble you will have with cracking. I have had better luck with thinned PVA glue than latex paint. If you have some old woodworking yellow glue around, just thin it and brush it on the end grain. Cutting them lengthwise and getting rid of the pith is a must as well. Anchorseal works well, but you may have trouble finding some locally depending on where you live.
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I long for a world where the feline search for knowledge is not met with deadly consequence.
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MichaelMouse
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Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 8126
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Chestnut oak Quercus prinus is a good name. A "white" oak in the lumber trade. You can see the long white rays in the third photo.
At your latitude you can expect the sapwood to spalt up before summer's end, so use anything you want to show off the heart/sapwood contrast early. Don't get crazy while you search for wax emulsion sealers. Out of the sun, plastic bag over and under will keep the cuts fresh.
Look to the heart carefully before you take them up the middle. Oak is prone to heart checks, and having one at 35 to 90 degrees to your prospective rim is a losing proposition. Cut through them if possible, slab a center if impossible. Any at <35 will probably open a bit, but won't run to depth.
Cover all iron in your shop carefully before you spin that corrosive stuff. Clean surfaces that get wet and look for any shavings that might get away. Guaranteed corrosion.
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Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Arlin Eastman
Honored VeteranBronze Medal with Valor Purple Heart x2
Registered: 03/11/09
Posts: 3825
Loc: Council Bluffs, IA
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+1 on what Mouse said. For future get a gallon of Anchorseal so you can apply asap with in the hour.
Arlin
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It is always the right time, to do the right thing!
Loving Hands Memory Boxes
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AnthonyYak
slightly skewed
Registered: 10/13/03
Posts: 6977
Loc: Collegeville PA
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Ya know, you have to come to some club meetings
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If it don't hold soup, it's ART!!
https://picasaweb.google.com/Anthonyturns/Turnings
My Pics
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18 Pieces of Flair
Member
Registered: 07/21/03
Posts: 196
Loc: Malvern, PA
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I thought I had at least a couple days to get them sealed  ! Of course, I hopped on the phone and tried Woodcraft but they're closed for the night. I bagged the ones I could and put them all under a tarp out of the sun. Hopefully they'll be OK until I can get the anchorseal tomorrow.
Mouse - thanks for the info but I'm afraid it's a bit over my head. Can you recommend a newbie's guide to heartwood and how to handle it?
Anthony - I'll check the Keystone Turners site for the next meeting date. Limerick is not too far...
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iclark
Member
Registered: 01/08/10
Posts: 2334
Loc: southeast VA
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To answer your question: yes, that was a fair trade.
Sometimes you can do better but not very often.
I currently owe a bunch of bowls for the wood that I have received this month. You got off cheaper.
If you use a chainsaw to split them, you will likely notice that the standard chains are filed for crosscut. Ripping with them can be slow going. I am having a hard time with the cut drifting to the right as I cut. I hope that you are better than I am.
Depending on the size of you lathe and your interests, you may want to cut some of the wood into 3x3's with the grain and seal the ends. In a few years, you should have some very nice stock for peppermills.
Part of the cutting advice above, I would condense to: if there is already a significant heart check before you split the wood, align your cut with that check.
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"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
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MichaelMouse
Member
Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 8126
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iclark said:
Part of the cutting advice above, I would condense to: if there is already a significant heart check before you split the wood, align your cut with that check.
All heart checks are significant, but sometimes they're tough to see. Wet the surface and see if one wicks in moisture. Then align and eliminate if possible, or leave it at <30 degrees slant from the cut. If you can't do either, take a slab out of the center of the log that takes the whole "star" with it.
If you turn it heart down it won't open much and you can fill it.
Really a radial check, which originated at the sapwood, but a heart check would do the same if the bowl were turned heart out. BTW, the bowl is beech, which is one screaming PITA to cure.
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Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Jim Pilsner
Member
Registered: 02/17/11
Posts: 111
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What a score! I'm so jealous! I'd say you did pretty well 
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robo hippy
Member
Registered: 03/31/06
Posts: 989
Loc: Eugene, OR
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Oak for sure, but which type is a guessing game as there are many types. Normally I would give the person I got the wood from, a bowl or two. The 6 pack of beer would do as well. Do get them out of the sun, and if you store them on the ground, tarp over and under, and completely covered all the way down to the ground. Seal the ends. Tite bond glue works fine. a couple of layers of paint will work as well, Thompson's water seal, or anchor seal. Also keep out of wind and any direct sun light. I generally rip my logs length wise, through the center, and try to line the cut up with any cracks that are usually coming off the pith/center of the logs. Have fun turning when you can. Oak will blacken up the ways of your lathe instantly, so you might want to paste wax them before turning. If you get metal stains on the wood (chuck jaws, metal filings from sharpening) concentrated lemon juice will cut them in seconds if they are fresh, and minutes to an hour or so if the wood is dry. Oak does tend to split more than some other woods.
robo hippy
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