jgourlay
Just Promoted to troublemaker
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 9851
Loc: Houston, Texas
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Gents, I have a problem I'm hoping someone else has conquered.
I have two skews, and get basically the same thing with both. If I have the handle on my right, and am coming to do the left side of a bead, it works great. I can get the skew to 'bite' and shear off whisper then shavings all the way to the point where the skew is normal to the work.
But I struggle mightely when the handle is on the left and I'm trying to turn the right side of the bead. 'Bite' is very inconsistent, and more often than not it will 'kick' throwing my hand back toward the chuck  .
The 'handle is parallel to the work' portion is not so bad. But as I start to get around the curve of a knob/ball, it gets progressively much harder to get the thing to bite, to the point were I am pushing the skew really hard into the work and can feel the friction heat before it will bite.
I don't know if I'm somehow sharpening incorrectly, using it, both, something else. By the way, I know the skews are sharp because they can both shave hair....
But 'sharp' and 'proper geometry' I know are not necessarily the same thing.
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iclark
Member
Registered: 01/08/10
Posts: 2341
Loc: southeast VA
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Are you changing hands when you change edges? If so, are you shifting your stance so that you are doing the mirror image with your body relative to the cut?
Are the two bevels ground with the same profiles?
Are you honing such that their is no burr on either side?
Those are the first 3 of my standard areas of mistakes that might contribute to what you are getting.
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Arlin Eastman
Honored VeteranBronze Medal with Valor Purple Heart x2
Registered: 03/11/09
Posts: 3841
Loc: Council Bluffs, IA
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iclark said:
Are you changing hands when you change edges? If so, are you shifting your stance so that you are doing the mirror image with your body relative to the cut?
Are the two bevels ground with the same profiles?
Are you honing such that their is no burr on either side?
Those are the first 3 of my standard areas of mistakes that might contribute to what you are getting.
+1
Arlin
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It is always the right time, to do the right thing!
Loving Hands Memory Boxes
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MichaelMouse
Member
Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 8155
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Mostly it's the point. You have to coordinate carefully with both hand and eye if you're using point up. As you try to work the heel, that point grabs where you're not looking. It can do it because you feed straight in and grab the opposite side, most often. Old boys had a quick way around that problem - straight chisel. They called it a beading tool, and it worked great. I prefer a long bevel so I can keep a bit of clearance at the heel, but you can go too far with a single-bevel type and get into a grabby situation.
It's the tool in the upper pair this photo. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Shoulder-Peeling.jpg No surprises with a straight tool, while even a radiused Lacer design only goes half way from the skew design.
Big tool cutting bead here. Couldn't get the body into position for best symmetry without aggravating an unwilling videographer, so just remember if you can step up, symmetry will follow. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view¤t=Bead.mp4
Also a great "roughing" tool that leaves a finished surface. You can see the fine curlies near the end of this video. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view¤t=CylinderRough.mp4
Any skew is you with a straight chisel, so give it a try.
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Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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NCPaladin
Member
Registered: 06/22/09
Posts: 481
Loc: North Carolina
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I am not a skew expert so take with a grain (or box) of salt.
First, you state “handle is parallel to the work”. For planning cuts that is true, not for beads (or coves with a spindle gouge). Look at the two videos Michael posted, for beads the tool is perpendicular to the work, for the planning cut it is almost parallel.
IMHO, if you are trying to roll beads and the tool is almost parallel then it is probably almost impossible.
It is best to use both right and left hands. The handle in both cases should be close to the body so the handle will move away from the body as the cut is made. The more stretched out your arms are the less fine control you have.
You can roll a bead on the left with the handle on your right but what happens is your body gets in the way and you have to lean far to the left to complete the cut. Often the left side of the bead will have a flat look. By turning left handed, the tool is rotated away from you body. A lot (most?) do turn from with the tool on the right but they have to start will the tool a longer way from the body and arms are much more stretched out (losing fine control) or they have to lean a lot to an uncomfortable position to complete the cut.
A lot of people tell you to align your pointer finger with the tool. Try this.
Place the broad side of the skew on your tool rest as in starting a cut, grasp it normally and roll to the right. You probably started with the back of your hand about 1:30 or so.
If you watch your wrist you will see it pull towards your body about 2/3 of the way through. That’s how our bodies are made.
Now place your finger on the flat of the blade, back of hand 12:00. You can now rotate you hand the necessary 90* and your hand/wrist will stay straight with your forearm.
When you start in the wrong position it is almost impossible to rotate smoothly 90*, so 2/3 of the way through the cut your hand movement may force a loss of bevel and you never know why.
When rolling the left side the opposite is true, start with your hand about the 3:00 position in order to roll the tool smoothly to 12:00.
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All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.
Thomas Jefferson
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jgourlay
Just Promoted to troublemaker
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 9851
Loc: Houston, Texas
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Wow....
I have a beading tool. I thought it was supposed to be used like a little short scraper. So I put a burr on it. Oops....
And, thanks.
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MAKE: Void your warranty, violate a user agreement, fry a circuit, blow a fuse, poke an eye out... www.makezine.com
No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
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jgourlay
Just Promoted to troublemaker
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 9851
Loc: Houston, Texas
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Paladin, thanks. I was rolling the tool incorrectly. My left hand was (is) improperly 'calibrated'.
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MAKE: Void your warranty, violate a user agreement, fry a circuit, blow a fuse, poke an eye out... www.makezine.com
No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
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