Mark R
Member
Registered: 05/15/12
Posts: 8
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Hi All,
I've been considering a regular mineral oil as finish for a maple desk, would that be a good choice? From what I understand it would need to be re-applied regularly. Considering it's an office desk and not kitchen use, how often would I have to reapply it? It's a nice natural look, it adds no yellowish hue to the red-brown maple, and I like how it feels to the touch after a month of drying.
Thanks a lot!
Mark.
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jteneyck
Member
Registered: 01/24/10
Posts: 3201
Loc: Western NY
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I think it would be a poor choice. MO offers no real protection and any excess would soak into your papers if you left them on the desk. If you like the feel of MO, then consider a wiping varnish or oil/varnish mix. Two or three coats of that will offer far better protection, have a nice feel, and when you're done, you're done. If you really want a great feel, rub it with steel wool or the synthetic stuff after the last coat has dried.
John
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daveferg
member
Registered: 02/19/02
Posts: 39806
Loc: Cloverdale, CA, USA
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jteneyck said:
I think it would be a poor choice. MO offers no real protection and any excess would soak into your papers if you left them on the desk. If you like the feel of MO, then consider a wiping varnish or oil/varnish mix. Two or three coats of that will offer far better protection, have a nice feel, and when you're done, you're done. If you really want a great feel, rub it with steel wool or the synthetic stuff after the last coat has dried.
John
+1 And MO will darken the wood when first applied. I'd also agree about MO possibly soaking up into your papers, etc.
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Dave
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JR1
Member
Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 6642
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
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++1on the above. MO would need to be reapplied monthly if not more frequently and would render the desk unusable for a day or two after application. I'd go with three coats of Tried and True Danish Oil . It is pure highly polymerized Linseed oil. It cures to recoat in ~10 hours at 70º. It will impart a depth to the wood. like MO but will not mess up papers on it nor require periodic recoating. It will not do much to protect against hot cups or spills. I'd be inclined to topcoaat it with either crystalac (2001 if you spray or Poly-ox if you don't) or general finishes high performance . They are waterborne and much easier to apply than an oil/varnish mix. They will not change the appearance and will protect against scratches, dings, water and hot stuff.
BTW be sure to dispose of the rags you use to wipe on the Tried and True carefully to prevent spontaneous combustion. Also Woodcraft carries GF and so do a couple other WW stores around here. They also carry Tried & True.
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homo homini lupus
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Howard Acheson
Registered: 08/07/01
Posts: 18918
Loc: Southport, NC USA
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IN addition to never drying or curing, mineral oil provides absolutely no meaningful moisture or abrasive protection no matter how often it is applied. An oil/varnish mixture would be a much better choice.
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Howie.........
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Mark R
Member
Registered: 05/15/12
Posts: 8
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Thank you all for the advice. Too bad - MO looks very nice, but not a long-term solution..
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Richard D.
Off his rocker
Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 6358
Loc: Los Angeles
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Mark R said:
Thank you all for the advice. Too bad - MO looks very nice, but not a long-term solution..
Not even for constipation, but the results would be similar!
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RD
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FS7
Member
Registered: 08/23/09
Posts: 670
Loc: Springfield, VA
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Tried and True Danish Oil is a good easy finish for simple things that will not see extensive handling, but a desk is a poor application. If you like the feel of mineral oil, then try two coats of a water-based poly followed by a Scotch-Brite pad lubricated with mineral oil once the poly has fully cured. It will cut down the sheen and soften the feel of the finish. Clean the surface with a paper towel or two and you will be good to go.
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JR1
Member
Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 6642
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
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That's why I said to topcoat!!
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homo homini lupus
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