FS7
Member
Registered: 08/23/09
Posts: 665
Loc: Springfield, VA
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I'm in the middle of a changing table and fortunately I have a habit of staining and finishing prior to assembly. I picked up some GF Black Cherry Water-Based the last time I was at Woodcraft thinking it would look nice on the oak. I started on the bottom of the bottom (it won't ever be seen unless you turn it over) and it was a disaster. It was very dull and it blotched all over the place. It was noticeably worse on the plywood, though the hardwood edging was very dull also. Fortunately, I don't care about the plywood, and the hardwood just got sanded down (which removed most but not all of it).
Has anybody else used this and had good results? I looked a little bit online and it seems like it might be unusable without a dry time extending agent. I'm using Minwax to finish this project now and it's been great.
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JR1
Member
Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 6545
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
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I have tried both the GF and the Crystalac water-based stains and have never had good luck with them. I don't know any one who has been successful with them. I use either the GF Gel stains for things that are irregular and which tend to blotch badly e.g. pine or where I need an opaque cover; or I use transtint either as a dye or as a tone coat in shellac.
An acquaintance of mine who has a high end furniture and cabinetry business has tried a bunch and in his opinion they are all crap.
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homo homini lupus
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Richard D.
Off his rocker
Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 6298
Loc: Los Angeles
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JR what was the last project you used the Gel Stain or dye on? How long ago was it finished?
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RD
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JR1
Member
Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 6545
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
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Gel stain on some shelves for a client he picked them up this morning, he had a bunch of pine he wanted dark red. GF Antique Cherry did just fine.
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homo homini lupus
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rschissler
Member
Registered: 02/24/06
Posts: 1577
Loc: San Diego, CA
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I wouldn't use a water based stain on anything except small projects. It dries much too fast. You can't wipe the excess fast enough, so you end up with lapmarks.
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JR1
Member
Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 6545
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
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That and I can't seem to get an even predictable color. There must be some technique that allows you to use the water based stains easily—they seem to sell well.
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homo homini lupus
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Howard Acheson
Registered: 08/07/01
Posts: 18887
Loc: Southport, NC USA
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JR1 said:
That and I can't seem to get an even predictable color. There must be some technique that allows you to use the water based stains easily—they seem to sell well.
If you apply them as per their instructions, they can work. However, the apply and immediately wipe off and even out is almost impossible for one person to do. Those that are successful turn it into a two person job. The second person follows immediately behind the applier evening out and wiping off the excess.
When it's all said and done though, it's not a very user friendly product. But, it's low VOC and is the coming thing in pigment based stains. Much better to learn to use water based dye stains.
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Howie.........
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FS7
Member
Registered: 08/23/09
Posts: 665
Loc: Springfield, VA
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Glad to see it isn't just me. I wonder how these things even sell.
The idea of staining inside is nice, but the stain just looked horrible.
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bhh
Member
Registered: 08/19/11
Posts: 218
Loc: Cincinnati, OH
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You can sometimes get a retarder for w/b stains. I have some that is the same line as some of the stains that I have (unfortunately, no longer available). The one I have (from its MSDS) is primarily Propylene Glycol .
To be sure, check with mfr of your stain to ensure compatibility.
But yes, keeping a wet surface and wiping on with one hand and wiping off with the other (or team approach) helps.
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bigbob
Member
Registered: 01/22/06
Posts: 166
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Try Charles Neil's blotch control . Works like top. Water base stain after it dries. I have used it on aspen which is the most blotchy wood I have ever used . Makes it look like cherry or walnut depending on the stains used. bob
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www.bobkloes.com
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