Sparetime
Member
Registered: 01/12/05
Posts: 452
Loc: Rochester, MN
|
|
I looked for an answer to my question first, but didn't find it. I think it's out there somewhere, anyway.
I have been trying to get a sharp edge on an A2 plane iron for a BUS. I get a great edge on a hock blade I have for a No. 7 stanley, but don't seem to be able to produce the same results on the A2.
I've tried both water stones and the scary sharp method. Both methods followed by stropping on MDF with green rouge.
I believe my water stones are 1000 and 4000, and the finest sandpaper is 2000 grit.
Any suggestions? Is A2 just that much more time consuming than O1? Getting ready to order the O1 blade just to see, but thought I'd get some opinions first.
Cutting in Oak, the No. 7 works great. The BUS just doesn't seem to sing, and it's taking a lighter cut.
I'm going to give the A2 the ruler trick tonight, maybe the back of the blade isn't as flat as I think it is.
BTW, I've flattened the stones and work on plate glass for Scary.
--------------------
The more you know, the less you need
|
Bibliophile 13
Moderator
Registered: 09/08/06
Posts: 7079
Loc: South Alabama
|
|
Approximately what bevel angle are you using? My A2 plow plane irons like a higher bevel than softer tool steels. Something between 30* and 35* seems to be about right for A2, in my limited experience.
If you're getting a good wire edge on the back of the blade when you hone the bevel, then you're doing things right. If you can turn the whole wire edge over on your finest stone, then there's no need for a back-bevel. The back is flat enough to be serviceable. (The problem with back-bevels is that if you ever want to go back to a regular bevel, you have to remove a lot of metal to do so, usually by grinding the bevel back past where the back-bevel was.) If you can get yourself an even finer abrasive for polishing, that will help. An 8K waterstone will work, though a leather strop is just as effective and a lot less expensive.
--------------------
Steve S.
--------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
|
Aram
Member
Registered: 01/04/04
Posts: 2938
Loc: Danville, CA
|
|
Sparetime said:
Any suggestions? Is A2 just that much more time consuming than O1?
In my experience, yes. Big time. I sharpen my blades freehand (mostly) and I am always rudely reminded how long it takes to hone the final edge on A1. But boy, does that edge last! O1 is cake.
--------------------
Best,
Aram
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
|
Mtobey
Sharpening Guru
Registered: 02/11/06
Posts: 4512
Loc: iowa
|
|
When this happens to me, and it does, I get out the loupe` because I find that I have missed the "intersection:" it can only be off by a couple-four thousandths inch and with A2, D2 and similar steels, it takes forever to take off enough steel to get the intersection. Look at your edge magnified. I don't use magnification as a rule, but I do when this happens.
|
Mtobey
Sharpening Guru
Registered: 02/11/06
Posts: 4512
Loc: iowa
|
|
Though I am an ignorant hayseed compared to Charlesworth and several other experts, I do not ever use the "ruler trick." It is, in fact, a trick. I believe that one intersection is enough to take care of.
My apologies to all of the trick stalwarts.
|
RonB1957
Member
Registered: 02/15/11
Posts: 944
Loc: IL. near St. Louis
|
|
I am no expert by any means. But I go all the way up to 8000 with my irons and chisels. A2 especially. I flatten the backs also but without the ruler. Best of luck.
--------------------
Just living and learning
|
Mike Brady
Member
Registered: 12/07/06
Posts: 2731
Loc: Batavia, IL
|
|
If you have been noticing the various forums' threads about the Kato study and its influence on setting up planes and their cutters, the " ruler trick" has been effectively negated since the chipbreaker needs to be within a few thousanths of the cutting edge, where the ruler trick back bevel "used" to be.
--------------------
Help stamp out "galoot" and "neander" in our time.
|
mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
|
|
Sparetime said:
I'm going to give the A2 the ruler trick tonight, maybe the back of the blade isn't as flat as I think it is.
Please dont do that. The blade ships on your bus plane from lee valley pre flattened to .00005 or something ridiculous. Its flat unless you screwed it up.
--------------------
Brad
|
mongo
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 4592
Loc: Largo, FL
|
|
A bit more question answering. A2 is harder to sharpen that O1. It also must have a bit higher angle30-35 degrees or higher as has been mentioned. A smother also genrally has a cambered blade which on a BU plane will need a stronger camber than on a BD smoother. But still nothing like a Jack plane. At 2000 grit sandpaper you should have a decent edge(could be better but serviceable).
--------------------
Brad
|
closed for business
Invalid Declaration
Registered: 02/17/07
Posts: 7305
Loc: South of Columbus OH
|
|
i had a machinist make a bunch of A2 blades for me. He used a grinder to put a deep hollow on the bevel (1/4" thick blades) I spent probably 50 minutes sharpening 4 blades on a worksharp and probably a total of 10 sheets of paper. They are mirror shiny. I think the key is a good hollow grind so you don't waste time removing a lot of material.
--------------------
My Day Job
Good spin, but I didn't conveniently ignore anything. I addressed what I chose to address. ~CharlieD 9/15/11
|
Previous
Index
Next
Threaded
A2 Sharpening Question
Edit
Reply
Quote
[Re: 