crokett™
On his own list now
Registered: 11/03/04
Posts: 16670
Loc: Central NC
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My FIL has volunteered to build the driveway pillars this fall when they get back. I need to provide the design. I am going to pour footings, then the construction will be concrete block with brick veneer. I will put rebar in the footings and have my FIL set the bottom course of block over the rebar then fill the centers with concrete. For the bricks, should they be attached to the block with anything more than mortar? Maybe those corrugated metal straps at the mortar joint? Also, how to keep the pillars level across the driveway? I will make sure the footings are poured level and level to each other as best I can. I want to include a planter in the pillars. What is the best way to get drainage holes for water? Add PVC pipe? Leave weep holes at the mortar joints of the brick?
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It is as bad as you think, and they are out to get you.
My blog: http://wcwoodworking.blogspot.com/
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JR_
Honored Veteran
Registered: 03/13/09
Posts: 15845
Loc: Rhode Island
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My neighbor put a couple brick pillars at the end of his driveway. One sits one course lower than the other. Drive me nuts 
I can't help but look at it when I drive by. Sticks out like a sore thumb.
I would thing a string level would help maintain their symmetry.
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thooks
Moderator
Registered: 04/05/01
Posts: 47620
Loc: Marietta, GA
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A real mason would use a laser level to get the footings the same elevation. Then he would put up some batter boards, at least one set that stretches across the driveway to establish coursing and correct height.
He would also use the proper brick ties from each mortar course on the block.
And yes, weep holes would be the correct procedure.
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We continue to hear how WN is not like the rest of America...but then you click on a link, any link and it seems that after you read the comments, we are no different. - Knotty Cracker, 5/1/13
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woodturner9
Member
Registered: 08/06/09
Posts: 841
Loc: centre county, PA
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crokett™ said:
For the bricks, should they be attached to the block with anything more than mortar?
BIA has a number of tech reports that explain in detail how to do all these things. This one discusses brick veneer over wood framing , which is similar to what you want to do.
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daveferg
member
Registered: 02/19/02
Posts: 39823
Loc: Cloverdale, CA, USA
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What about putting in brick ties between your concrete block as constructed---that should give you ties to the mortar lines of the brick, every few courses. Pretty simple---essentially just metal strips.
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Dave
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GHR
Member
Registered: 12/16/03
Posts: 2369
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Perhaps you could go out and examine similar work in progress.
A lot of walls are put up around here with cinder block cores and rock or brick facings. I never paid much attention to the datails, but just driving by and paying attention I am sure would show common practice.
I am not sure if ties are necessary. Not even sure they need to be the same elevation.
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Economics is much harder when you use real money.
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blindrid
Member
Registered: 11/07/03
Posts: 4788
Loc: Castle Rock CO
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daveferg said:
What about putting in brick ties between your concrete block as constructed---that should give you ties to the mortar lines of the brick, every few courses. Pretty simple---essentially just metal strips.
Exactly what I would do. Why make it difficult?
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crokett™
On his own list now
Registered: 11/03/04
Posts: 16670
Loc: Central NC
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daveferg said:
What about putting in brick ties between your concrete block as constructed---that should give you ties to the mortar lines of the brick, every few courses. Pretty simple---essentially just metal strips.
I'm not a real mason. I was either thinking string or a laser level. I will use the laser level to get the footings level with each other. After that I am thinking build one of the pillars then use string and stakes to keep the other one level to the first one.
That's what I was thinking. I didn't know the name of them. I have some brick ties somewhere. I have no idea why I have them, more than likely I got em for a project I planned but never did.
for the planters I will do weep holes and have concrete at the bottom sloped towards the weep holes.
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It is as bad as you think, and they are out to get you.
My blog: http://wcwoodworking.blogspot.com/
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theeviltwinn
No Action Here but not for lack of trying
Registered: 08/08/01
Posts: 9526
Loc: Royersford Pa
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Brick and block mortar joints don't always line up. Not all brick are modular. They make ties, both adjustable and non adjustable, for tying brick and block together
http://www.h-b.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=93_77_2
They are usually spec'd every 16" or 24" verticle but it wouldn't hurt every course.
Twinn
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NO COP FOR YOU!
Edited by theeviltwinn (08/13/12 07:19 PM)
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JR_
Honored Veteran
Registered: 03/13/09
Posts: 15845
Loc: Rhode Island
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Learned a new word today, thanks...
Quote:
Wythe
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For other uses, see Wythe (disambiguation).
A wythe is a continuous vertical section of masonry one unit in thickness. A wythe may be independent of, or interlocked with, the adjoining wythe(s). A single wythe of brick that is not structural in nature is referred to as a veneer.
A multiple-wythe masonry wall may be composed of a single type of masonry unit layered to increase its thickness and structural strength, or different masonry units chosen by function, such as an economical concrete block serving a structural purpose and a more expensive brick chosen for its appearance.
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