SDB777
Member
Registered: 11/09/11
Posts: 201
Loc: Cabot, AR
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Fella contacted me through his son(local firefighter), seems he's been needing someone to make some big logs into 2" and also some 2-1/2" thick slabs! The logs were dropped off on Friday night(8/24), and I love the thought of making some slabs! So I got started on them first thing yesterday morning(8/25).
The mill is a Woodmizer LT-10 with the upgraded power(from the standard 7hp to the 10hp). Everything is pretty much manual on this mill, everything! If you need to turn the log, grab a cant hook. If you need to load a log, guess what...grab a cant hook. Push feed through the log - yup, the slower you go, the smoother the cut(equals less planing). And yes, those houses in the photo's are my neighbors. They can barely hear the engine on the mill during the day when I'm running it...therefore, no complaints on the noise(cause I've asked them if they can hear it).
The temps weren't too bad in the early morning, but after a few hours and a few small rain showers, it go muggy!!! The hardest part about cutting slabs, has to be the moving of the logs....at least for me. I don't own a tractor/forklift/whatever....I am the tractor. But when you step back and think about what you need to do, a simple cant hook and some thick chunks of wood for ramps can be all you need.
Noone wants to hear me ramble on about that stuff, where are the photo's? Here's the log on the ground next to the mill:

And here's the same log on the mill:
 (Of course, the magic of digital photography makes it look pretty easy. From on the ground to on the mill was approximately 8-10 minutes) What you missed out on seeing was me trimming the cracked ends with a Jonsred 2086 wearing a 32" bar, and then washing the grit and grime off(keeps the blade sharper longer).
This log turned into this:
 (The fella is going to sand these slabs down and make bookend table(s) out of them. Hope he doesn't need to move them around too much...them tables would be mighty heavy!)
Who says White Oak can't be purty?:




Hope you enjoyed the woodporn? I know I get a kick out of being the first to see what the inside of a log looks like. A little sorer, oh yeah....those slabs weigh around 150-200 pounds a piece(the 2-1/2" by 10'6" laying on the ground next to the mill will require the help of a young fella to get into the trailer. The fella is suppsed to be here this afternoon to pick them up....hope he likes them(he got a pretty good deal on the cutting)!
Any questions? Feel free to ask.....love talking about milling.
Scott (can you say sunburn little guy) B
-------------------- Introducing PR acrylic blanks!! Just added - STAMPS blanks!!!!!!
Don't forget the Crosscut Cherry and Sweetgum/Redgum pen blanks cheap!! www.slabsblanksandboards.com
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ZoltanO
Member
Registered: 04/03/10
Posts: 106
Loc: Morehead, KY, US
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Great pics!
You must be a real Hoss to manuver those logs with only a cant hook. Even if it was the most awful noise, I wouldn't complain to a man wielding a 32" chainsaw and throwing around huge logs 
Do you keep the mill set up there or put it away when not in use? Is tear down and set up much of an ordeal?
Thanks again for the great pics!
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SDB777
Member
Registered: 11/09/11
Posts: 201
Loc: Cabot, AR
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Actually the only thing about me that is considered big, is my gut! The older you get, the harder it is to get rid of that spare tire.
Moving logs is a 'lever thing'. My cant hook is 5' long, and you can get a good bite and roll a lot of weight. The ramp just needs some spare 'blocking' to hold the log in order to reposition the cant hook to roll it some more.
The mill could be made portable, by mounting it on a trailer. I wouldn't want to have to put it together and take it apart, as the engine/mast section weighs about 300lbs(just guessing, never actually weighed it, just know it took three people to lift it onto the rails). Although I take it apart once I have a framed structure around it, and then pour my slab to anchor it down for good....
Thanks for looking! And I'l try to put up more photo's from time-to-time!
Scott (fella was all grins just awhile ago) B
-------------------- Introducing PR acrylic blanks!! Just added - STAMPS blanks!!!!!!
Don't forget the Crosscut Cherry and Sweetgum/Redgum pen blanks cheap!! www.slabsblanksandboards.com
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LongLook
Member
Registered: 04/12/04
Posts: 283
Loc: Eastern TN
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Great post. In my younger days I milled a lot of cherry and maple from my NH woodlot using a RipSaw manual rig. It is good to see someone take a tree and make lumber and eventually furniture from it.
One way to minimize the cant hook labor is to buy a cheap winch and use it to move the logs. I would take 3-4 turns of winch cable around the middle of the log with the winch bolted to my lawn tractor or Gator and you can roll the log several feet. Redo the cable thing and do it again. Saved me a lot of backache.
Are you going to rip the pith from those slabs before you stack them for drying? In cherry and maple, the pith degrades pretty rapidly and can cause the stack to move.
Again-nice haul.
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Tim Becker
Honored Veteran, Plane Valet
Registered: 11/13/02
Posts: 40543
Loc: Vail, Arizona
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You want pretty white oak? Test your skills, quarter saw it.
-------------------- “As a result of your posts, you now have convinced me of agreeing to your point of view”
- nobody....ever
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Tapper
Member
Registered: 10/12/99
Posts: 7855
Loc: Helena, MT USA
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Tim Becker said:
You want pretty white oak? Test your skills, quarter saw it.
My question precisely - are you going to have any quartersawn?
Doug
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SDB777
Member
Registered: 11/09/11
Posts: 201
Loc: Cabot, AR
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Tim Becker said:
You want pretty white oak? Test your skills, quarter saw it.
Quartersawn timber isn't that hard to make, it's all in the way it is sitting on the bunk of the mill. And if the customer had wanted it cut that way, I would not have had a problem doing it for him, but he wanted 'em cut like this.... I think the difference in grain structure is awesome when the boards/slabs are just taken straight off the log. They do need some more attention when drying, and I explained that all to him....so he wouldn't end up with a 2" thick cupped slabs.
Scott (customer is always right) B
-------------------- Introducing PR acrylic blanks!! Just added - STAMPS blanks!!!!!!
Don't forget the Crosscut Cherry and Sweetgum/Redgum pen blanks cheap!! www.slabsblanksandboards.com
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Wudworkah
Member
Registered: 06/15/07
Posts: 1482
Loc: Just north of Beantown
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I'm curious if he's going to air dry those? Wondering how many years to get the inside of that oak dry enough to work?
JeffD
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SDB777
Member
Registered: 11/09/11
Posts: 201
Loc: Cabot, AR
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Wudworkah said:
I'm curious if he's going to air dry those? Wondering how many years to get the inside of that oak dry enough to work?
JeffD
The instructions I gave him were to seal the ends with latex paint(he had that), and to get them stickered and out of the sunshine. Also to put either a bunch of block(weight) or to strap them together, and then check the straps every once in awhile to make sure they are still tight.
My best guess since the tree had been standing dead for two/three years before being cut down and brought here, is another 1-1/2 years on the really thick slabs, and less then a year on the thinner ones.
Scott B
-------------------- Introducing PR acrylic blanks!! Just added - STAMPS blanks!!!!!!
Don't forget the Crosscut Cherry and Sweetgum/Redgum pen blanks cheap!! www.slabsblanksandboards.com
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Phil Thien
Member
Registered: 07/23/06
Posts: 1793
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I think that is some beautiful grain. I've never seen plain sawn white oak with such a dark color. That stuff is gorgeous.
I've used plain sawn white oak. I had a friend with a mill, and every once in a while he give me some because he only wanted the red oak. I never had a problem finding a use for the white oak, and prefer it to red oak.
If I was your neighbor, I'd not only not complain about the noise, but I'd sit in a chair nearby until you needed my help loading/unloading the unit. Two backs are better than one!
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