Fix2Relax
Member
Registered: 03/28/01
Posts: 577
Loc: Washington, DC, USA
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Quick question--I am using connector bolts for some furniture assembly, the bolts with the large, flattened heads. Question is whether I should countersink the surface so they are flush, or leave them a bit proud. I prefer not countersinking them because I plan to install them in slightly oversize holes to allow them some leeway in mating with the cross bolt connectors--the oversize holes give me a bit more latitude in the final assembly. The countersink plan really locks me into a precise position, but I am curious if someone has given this some though already.
Many thanks, David
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JGrout
member
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 23285
Loc: Axial CO
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Any particular reason the counter sink holes cannot be over sized slightly as well?
IMO that solves the problem
Joe
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Ingjr
Member
Registered: 06/29/07
Posts: 3325
Loc: Spring Hill, FL.
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If it's the bolts I'm thinking of, I can't ever remember seeing them countersunk. I've used them and never countersunk myself. HTH
-------------------- The older I get the faster I was.
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Routerman
Member
Registered: 10/15/99
Posts: 2906
Loc: Escondido/CA/USA
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************************************ Precise hole location x guess & x golly, is indeed a hit & miss proposition. Even very careful layout won't do it. Skill in end grain, face or edge drilling all required. Sharp good drills are essential for accuracy. If you're drilling on a press, it must be well calibrated to hit the cross-centers. A smart way to hold stuff togrther and supply kits in a KD config. but a tough drilling challenge unless you oversize the holes. SO I've fixtured for the drilling. (Using drill bushings and adjustable slides to accommodate location and screw lengths.) As such, my yield is 100% whether I use real flat head machine screws, buttons or whatever. The rolled thread, copper plated and miserably undersized 1/4 - 20's supplied with these x-dowels are an embarassment. Bottomline, I like the heads of polished SS flat head caps so they are my screws of choice.
Back to your question. If you're using the bizarre .230" 1/4-20' pan/flats I would probably counterbore to the head depth and call it a day. Studies drilling.
-------------------- Pat Warner
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Bill Schneider
Member
Registered: 03/10/11
Posts: 144
Loc: Athens, OH
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I've used many of them, but mostly with counterbores. If I'm remembering correctly, I believe that a 3/4" counterbore (done with a Forstner bit) still provides a little wiggle room for them.
Even if you don't counterbore, the edges are beveled and the head is shallow. They shouldn't cause a problem snagging clothes, etc. even if left proud.
I'd say that you have choices here, and just take your pick.
-------------------- Bill Schneider
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John Mihich
Honored Veteran
Registered: 06/08/01
Posts: 15322
Loc: Munster,Indiana
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I made several DVD boxes for my kids that were a square box. The boxes had holes so they can be attached in many configurations. I countersunk the holes so they wouldn't take up any space. Thinking back I probably didn't need to do that. The heads are pretty thin. If I build any more I won't be countersinking them.
-------------------- John
07/29/2011 Retirement Date
Always use the right tool for the job.
We need to clean house.
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MichaelMouse
Member
Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 8137
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You're going to see them in either case. Leave them proud. I don't use cross dowels. The right-angle piece is bored for a threaded insert. That way I can use the outside piece, clamped in position, to bore the initial 1/4" (or whatever) hole. I then use my step drill to concentrically enlarge for the threaded insert. Quick, and as long as you remember to wax the inserts, easy. Use the coarse thread type into endgrain, BTW.
-------------------- Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Fix2Relax
Member
Registered: 03/28/01
Posts: 577
Loc: Washington, DC, USA
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Good advice all! Thanks, MM, what you described is exactly what I will be doing--
David
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Routerman
Member
Registered: 10/15/99
Posts: 2906
Loc: Escondido/CA/USA
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Unsolicited advice = 0?: **************
One word. Whilst the pull strength in threaded inserts is substantial when used in a tee-nut config., in end grain, maybe not. I would not use a threaded insert in a bed or chair for example. The steel x-dowel is the KD connector of choice whence pull strength is paramount.
-------------------- Pat Warner
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