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lscraig
Member

Registered: 04/02/02
Posts: 4232
Loc: Douglasville, GA
Waterlox v/s Tru-oil
      #6479796 - 08/24/13 12:27 PM

Anybody ever use Waterlox for a gun stock? Even at $34/qt it is WAY cheaper than Tru-Oil. It smells exactly the same and is almost identical in appearance on the wood. Since they use Waterlox on floors I thought I would try it.

That way I can have one less can around the shop and save a little cash. Don't get me wrong, I can get 2-3 guns out of a little bottle of T-O, so $8/bottle is not so bad. At that same $8/3 oz jar it equals $80+/qt vs $34/qt.

Any thoughts?

--------------------
Thank You,
Shawn Craig
My Home Page
http://lscraig.blogspot.com/

"I used to know a lot of things before I lost my mind." Sylvia Stoner 1993


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fredhargis
Member

Registered: 08/21/03
Posts: 7023
Loc: Waynesfield, Ohio
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: lscraig]
      #6479821 - 08/24/13 12:51 PM

I have not, but your comparing different types of products (at least if you mean Waterlox Original). Tru oil isn't much more than a danish oil, comparable to Watco Danish (maybe, it's just varnish, MS, and linseed oil). Waterlox is a phenolic resin varnish using tung oil (I think) as the drying oil in the formula. Personally, I wouldn't use a film finish like Waterlox on a gun stock; any damage is going to be much harder to repair. Besides, Tru Oil has stood the test of time. But if the cost bothers you, mix your own. I, too, think Birchwood Casey is cleaning house with the price on the stuff. What's less clear to em is that at one time I though Tru Oil was polymerized linseed oil, but the current MSDS indicates it isn't.

--------------------
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.


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JR1
Member

Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 7821
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: lscraig]
      #6479829 - 08/24/13 01:07 PM

Tru oils advantage is its viscosity which is near ideal for curved surfaces. Having said that I don't know why you can't make your own. It will likely take some experimenting, time and testing.

--------------------
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats


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lscraig
Member

Registered: 04/02/02
Posts: 4232
Loc: Douglasville, GA
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: JR1]
      #6479849 - 08/24/13 01:29 PM

Thanks Folks. Nah, the price doesn't bother me. I was just noticing the similarities in the look and feel of the material. I knew that Tru-Oil is a linseed oil based resin etc, but I had forgotten that Waterlox is a phenolic resin.

Besides, my dad would probably whip my tail if I used anything but T/O on a gunstock.

Thanks

--------------------
Thank You,
Shawn Craig
My Home Page
http://lscraig.blogspot.com/

"I used to know a lot of things before I lost my mind." Sylvia Stoner 1993


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Richard D.
Off his rocker

Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 7164
Loc: Los Angeles
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: lscraig]
      #6479890 - 08/24/13 02:24 PM

Based on an article by Bob Flexner in the Feb. 2013 issue of Popular Woodworking....... every response to this thread has misinformation.

Tru-Oil doesn't have resin, it is cooked without oxygen to make it thicker. Good luck trying to follow JR1's advice to "make your own". Tru-Oil and Danish oil (which does have varnish/resin added) are completely different.

Waterlox is used to build up a very hard finish and takes some time (weeks) to fully cure. It does leave a very nice golden tone to the wood and is very durable. It isn't very appropriate for gun stocks.

--------------------
RD
------------------------------------------


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jteneyck
Member

Registered: 01/24/10
Posts: 4987
Loc: Western NY
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: Richard D.]
      #6479903 - 08/24/13 02:47 PM

Richard, why do you say that Waterlox would not be appropriate for gun stocks? My Remington 1100 is about 35 years old and used to see a lot of use, though not much any more. Anyway, it was finished with some type of film forming finish on the walnut stock and forearm. Back in the day, I would often spend all day out in the rain or snow, or walking through brush, weeds, what have you. The finish on the gun has a few minor dings on it, but no actually chips or damage that has allowed water to get underneath. So clearly a film forming finish can work, at least if you don't use your gun for a shovel, and if Waterlox is as tough as everyone claims it to be it seems to me that it should work too.

John


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lscraig
Member

Registered: 04/02/02
Posts: 4232
Loc: Douglasville, GA
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: Richard D.]
      #6479908 - 08/24/13 02:49 PM

Thanks All:

I am using the Tru-Oil that I already had. I know how to use it. It must be the driers in solution that make it smell similar to WaterLox.

IIRC the last time I used WL it dried ok, but when doing small pieces like stocks, the quart can didn't get used up very quickly, so it skinned over pretty quick. Also working on guns usually means some sort of schedule and a guy isn't going to want to wait an extra two weeks while waiting on the finish to cure.

I will stay with the tried and true stuff for now. If I have several to do at once, I may try it one day. T-O is working out well even here in the humid GA summer.

--------------------
Thank You,
Shawn Craig
My Home Page
http://lscraig.blogspot.com/

"I used to know a lot of things before I lost my mind." Sylvia Stoner 1993

Edited by lscraig (08/24/13 02:56 PM)


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JR1
Member

Registered: 09/09/10
Posts: 7821
Loc: Teller country, Co, USA
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: Richard D.]
      #6479952 - 08/24/13 03:45 PM

RD check the Tru-oil MSDS yes it doesn't have resin. (The MSDS can be retrieved via clicking on MSDS on Tru-oil product details page. .)
Modified oil is the main interesting ingredient. Back in the '60s my father and I found that we could make a good approximation by boiling pure linseed oil for a long time. This is potentially dangerous, and should only be done with caution and the awareness that fire can likely result. Once the BLO got very thick we let it cool and added a little MS. Looking at the MSDS I agree that making your own really near substitute is not possible. The only reason that we did it was that Tru-oil became unavailable in our area in the mid '60s.

--------------------
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats


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Richard D.
Off his rocker

Registered: 01/28/07
Posts: 7164
Loc: Los Angeles
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: JR1]
      #6480000 - 08/24/13 04:56 PM

So you are recommending someone try a process that you watched your dad do 50 years ago?

Being an online woodworker with no hands on experience is one thing. Giving advice based on what you have read and learned to repeat without getting contradicted seems to be your general behavior lately. When you encourage others to try something that is down right harmful and potentially dangerous is really when you become a detriment to Woodnet.

I guess your hobby is pretending to be a woodworker which unfortunately isn't against the rules here. I hope most people can see through the B.S. and not take what you say as something based on experience. With your post count and a lack of people exposing you as a wanna be I fear many occasional readers will get the wrong impression. I, like many other members, get tired of having to contradict your bad advice.

--------------------
RD
------------------------------------------


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lscraig
Member

Registered: 04/02/02
Posts: 4232
Loc: Douglasville, GA
Re: Waterlox v/s Tru-oil new [Re: lscraig]
      #6480113 - 08/24/13 07:17 PM

Guys:

I didn't mean to start an online argument about varnish on a gun stock. I was just curious. I used the tru-oil because I had it and I know it works. I have also used Waterlox on furniture and knife handles and I know it works.

Thanks for the healthy debate.

--------------------
Thank You,
Shawn Craig
My Home Page
http://lscraig.blogspot.com/

"I used to know a lot of things before I lost my mind." Sylvia Stoner 1993


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