Remote for 3HP Dust Collector
#71
fredhargis said:

Two things: the 240V connections are fine. So are the 120V, if there's connectors on each. So it looks great. If you want to test your set up, wire the lamp cord (or whatever) to the coil, and then trigger it with your remote (before any 240V wires are connected). You should hear it click, and again when you turn the remote off. While the coil is closed, if you touch the 240V terminals with an OHM meter (W to W, or B to B), you will see them continuous, and obviously not when you switch the coil off.




Ok, I ill wire up the switch circuit first to the contactor and see if it behaves as you said. Unfortunately, I don't have an Ohm meter. Almost embarrassed to admit that. I just never saw the need. Of course, this is the second or third time I could have used on in about as many years. many it's time to breakdown and order one from Amazon. Got any recommendations for a down and dirty Ohm Meter that'll be used only occasionally?

fredhargis said:

What did you decide about the manual switch you wanted?




Oh, forgot to tell you about that. The remote has a manual override switch built right in. So I'm good for now. But I still plan on looking into making my own manual over ride switch. I just think it makes sense to have one.
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#72
Very Nice Dom!

John
Formerly known as John's Woodshop
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#73
The suggestion of using the Ohm meter was just to make you feel a little more like the mad scientist , as well as provide some comfort to the process. I think you're good to go, but testing the coil first will insure you it's working. I've got 3 Ohm meters, and the ones that get used the most are the cheapo jobs that cost $10 each. Even one like this would work for this kind of stuff.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#74
Thanks for the link. I just added that to the rest of the stuff in my cart. (I got a 2Tb Sata drive and some other stuff there for my Media Server )
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#75
I mounted the contactor into the enclosure and started wiring it up. It went together like an erector set. (Legos for you younger guys) IMHO drawing out everything first really helped me do this so easily.






I was going to tie all the grounds into a common lug on the chassis but figured wire nutting them together would do the same thing. Right?

BTW, on the 125 V line, the black (hot) line is going to the top terminal of the connector. It looks like it's tied into the wire nut. But it isn't.

I would have probably been able to finish tonight it I hadn't purchased the WRONG style 220V plugs! I got the kind with one prong vertical and one horizontal. I need them both horizontal! Good thing I hold onto receipts.

But I did test out the remote and 125V connection. It works just like it should.

I just need to wait until I can get back to Home Depot and but the correct plugs. I'll do that if we aren't snowed in tomorrow

Once I get this all buttoned up and working properly I plan on formerly writing it up and publishing it on my web site (www.tgiag.com). That way the sources for all the pieces and parts as well as the wiring will be saved somewhere.
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#76
That looks great! I'm going to file this away in case the remote on my Oneida SDG ever goes out.

One thing: You should probably run a ground wire to the metal box, also.
Bob
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#77
I'm confused. In my breaker box black is hot and white is neutral. At least I THINK that is what it is. Am I wrong?
Ken
Carolyn "Kscott & GDay, can I come sniff you?"
Timberwolf "You ARE WHO you eat"!!!!!!! "
Spokeshave "You're swallowing someone else's DNA right now."
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#78
kscott said:


I'm confused. In my breaker box black is hot and white is neutral. At least I THINK that is what it is. Am I wrong?
Ken




You are probably right. Remember, ...me no Sparky. Me MECHANICAL.
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#79
The plugs you have might be OK. Look at the outlet. The 20 amp outlets accept both the 15 amp plugs (what you think you need, also called Nema 1-25) as well as the 20 amps plugs (what you have, Nema 2-20). So if your outlet is 20 amp, the plugs will work. If not, then you'll need to exchange them.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#80
fredhargis said:


The plugs you have might be OK. Look at the outlet. The 20 amp outlets accept both the 15 amp plugs (what you think you need, also called Nema 1-25) as well as the 20 amps plugs (what you have, Nema 2-20). So if your outlet is 20 amp, the plugs will work. If not, then you'll need to exchange them.




Trust me,...I tried. They don't fit. I KNEW I should have taken a picture of the existing plugs before I went shopping!!

What's REALLY maddening is that this is the SECOND time I've done something like this. When I was wiring up the DC several months ago I pulled the same stunt. Lucky for me I bought both styles and was able to return the incorrect one later.
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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