Bandsaw blades
#11
I know this has been discussed to death, but here goes.

I have a Jet JB16 bandsaw and i need a new blade for resawing. I recently ruined my Timber Wolf 1" blade (don't ask). I liked the TW blade a lot, but was wondering if there have been other innovations since I last investigated.

Igot the TW about 15 years ago, used it only recently. My new shop in NY state has access to a lot of wood through tree felling. I have resawn some great spalted maple and sycamore,.

Maybe i need a variety of blades, one for green wood turning blanks, one for resawing. Let me know.

Roger
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#12
I used Iturra designs in FL (904-642-2802) as he will listen to what you plan to do and recommend the right band for your use. He turned me onto the Starrett blades for rough work in logs on a 18" Rikon and it worked incredibly well. He is an independent fellow and does not have a web page as best I can tell but he will answer the phone. Ask him for a catalog when you order as it is a bible of information on bandsawing.
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#13
Can't say I know of any innovations in bands saw blades in the last 300 years or so but you may like to try a bi-metal blade. They cost more but last much much much more.

If you divide the higher initial price by the longer cutting life, I'd say bimetal blades like Lenox actually cost about 1/2 as much.

The biggest complaint most folks here have with T-wolf blades are dodgy welds. Of the 4 T-wolf's I've had, 2 of them cracked at the weld so maybe the rumors are true. Thats not to say that the other two may not run forever. In my case, a 50% failure rate is pretty poor.

My $0.02
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#14
My preference is for Lenox bands.

For rough milling of trees I like to use the C-Sharp 1-1/4" band in 1.1 tpi since I cut up to 16" thick material. wet stuff particularly needs an aggressive blade.

for resawing dry stuff with minimal post machining I've used the woodmaster CT, but destroyed it milling african blackwood. I recently purchased their tri-master, but have not tried it out yet, but it has gotten good reviews for performance. Not cheap, I think I paid $240 for it.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#15
I'd also recommend you look at bi-metal blades. Timberwolf blades cut well for me but both of them broke after not that much use, and not at the welds either. I moved on to Olson MVP bi-metal blades and got really good life out of them, but had to resharpen one of them when it was brand new because it wouldn't cut straight. So now I'm using a Lenox Diemaster 2 and it cuts well - and straight. It also cuts somewhat smoother than the Olson but that's probably because it's 4 tpi whereas the Olson's were 3 tpi. Apparently, Lenox does not make a 3 tpi band in 0.025" gage, you have to be able to run the 0.035" gage to get 3 tpi. You may be able to do that on your saw. If so, it will be a faster cutting blade and better able to handle thick cuts.

I'm not sure the Lenox is going to be as long lasting as the Olson blade, however, as it's showing signs of some dulling after far less use than the Olson MVP's.

If you decide on Lenox I highly recommend these guys. Perfect welds and good service.

John
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#16
I like the wood slicer blade from Highland Woodworking. It does a good job and doesn't brake the bank.

But then it depends on how much re-sawing one does.

Tom
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#17
The Wood Slicer is $30 for my 14" with riser block The bi-metal Lenox Diemaster 2 blade is $39. The Diemaster lasts a LOT longer than a Wood Slicer, easily 3X, making it a lot cheaper in the long haul.

The only advantage I found with the Wood Slicer is that it cuts extremely smoothly. Nothing I've yet used comes close. But there is a very large downside to having so little set in the teeth in order to create such a smooth finish. If the wood closes up just a fraction it pinches the blade and the saw comes to a screeching halt. I had that happen repeatably when I tried a Wood Slicer. Very frustrating in trying to get the blade loose when that happens. It didn't take long before I gave up on it.

John
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#18
tablesawtom said:


I like the wood slicer blade from Highland Woodworking. It does a good job and doesn't brake the bank.

But then it depends on how much re-sawing one does.

Tom




+1

I also really like their 3/16 blade for general band saw work.
Peter Brown

I can fix that...

shop-time.net
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#19
Lennox carbide 3/4" blade for me for resawing. Lasts a long time and can be honed.
John T.
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#20
The three blades I use most often are:

1) the 1/2" 3 TPI Olson MVP (as mentioned above, bimetal with a thinner band than the Lenox 3 TPI) for general straight ripping and some resawing,

2) Lenox 1/4 6 TPI bimetal (diemaster) for general curved work, and

3) only for straight cuts in stable dry stock, a Woodslicer or its equivalent. It cuts with a very smooth surface and a narrow kerf, most important when cutting veneer or thin strips for lamination, where the thin kerf is less wasteful, and there is no problem with closing onto the blade.

For green wood, you want the opposite of the woodslicer: a blade with a large kerf, and a narrower band for curves. Highland sells one they call a woodturner's blade.

The larger tooth blades are easily resharpened in various ways, demonstrated on youtube by various people. I use a diamond burr in a rotary tool, while the blade remains on the saw.
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