Surface preparation for stick on veneer

[Steve Soldo]

Repairing A surface that had cracked veneer. I removed all of the old veneer with a chisel.

I have cut the new pieces of veneer to size. Any advice on how to prepare the surface to ensure that the new veneer will stick properly? I think the substrate is plywood.

[ruffcutt]

Exactly what is stick on veneer? something like what they call peel and stick?


http://www.monsterwoodshop.com/psainstructions.aspx

[fredhargis]

You might consider using contact cement. Don't laugh; I picked this trick up in a book on refacing cabinets with PSA veneer. The coat of contact cement (your choice, flammable and the non flammable versions work) really gives the PSA grab. Proper alignment is crucial as it doesn't give once touched together. You might try a little test on scrap if this sounds as nuts to you as it did to me when I first read about it. You simply put a coat of the contact on the substrate, let it tack up as you usually would, then apply the PSA veneer.

[Steve Soldo]

Yes

[Steve N]

I like this stuff You can brush, roll or spray it on, since it's water based cleanup is easy. The one thing I will caution with this, or any adhesive and veneer is they don't like each other worth a darn when it comes to finishing the veneer. Keep what ever you use off the show surface of the veneer. You'll never get a consistent finish if you get the adhesive on the veneers show side.

As Far as prep for PSA veneer I have seen most places selling it say that the sticky side needs to go down on a finished surface, paint is usually suggested to get good adhesion. I can't say I have seen anyone advocate gluing the PSA veneeer. I would take a piece or two of scrap and play around so you don't learn by messing the entire thing up.


Veneer factory how to page


Joe Woodworker on PSA, and paper backed veneers.

[Steve Soldo]

Thank you, these links are excellent

[ruffcutt]

I have used Peel and stick a number of times over the years. Mostly in connection with building cabinets.

I've used it to re-face complete kitchens and many end panels on cabinets. Most of in on Melamine or pre-finished plywood.

When I did my blood wood kitchen I couldn't get blood wood plywood for the oven and refrigerator cabinet. I had Monster Shop custom make some blood wood peel and stick veneer for those. See pictures.

I have never had a problem with P&S. Follow the install instruction and you be golden.







The heat from using the self cleaning feature of the oven has never been a problem either and I've use the P&S on several oven boxes over the years.

[mike4244]

Steve Soldo said:

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Repairing A surface that had cracked veneer. I removed all of the old veneer with a chisel.

I have cut the new pieces of veneer to size. Any advice on how to prepare the surface to ensure that the new veneer will stick properly? I think the substrate is plywood.

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Steve,why did the original veneer crack?Could be several reasons,and could crack new veneer too.If the original veneer was installed over plywood with the grain in the same direction as the plywood,this can cause the veneer to crack.Then cross grain veneer with an inexpensive veneer first.Then install new veneer.
Carpenters glue if used with the old veneer might creep,thus cracking the veneer.These are the two main reasons I can think of why the old veneer cracked.
I use hot hide glue for veneer.I brush out the glue on the substrate and let it cool.Then position the new veneer and clamp,pin or whatever to hold it in place. Then I use a heat gun and laminate roller to adhere the veneer to the substrate.
There is another glue that I have not used that does not creep like white or yellow glue.Do a search for veneer glues.I know that some people swear by yellow glue,I swear at it when it comes to veneer.
mike