Anyone made a fence with a slider for their miter gauge?

[handi]

I created one for Wood Magazine. It was in the Dec 2011/Jan 2012 issue.
You can buy just the plan, too.

The body is two-part so milling a T-slot in the top and the square channel along the length for the sliding stop is easy to do. It mounts to a block screwed to your existing gage so the aux fence can be adjusted side to side.

Wood owns the rights or I would simply send the plans to you, but if you have questions about the design, I will be happy to answer them.

Ralph

[Steve N]

You can buy the whole enchilada Just the track to attach to your gauge, or both the track and the stop blocks. The stop blocks are really simple to make from wood. The track not so much, at least with the accuracy this offers. The miter gauge is awesome if the one you have is questionable.

[Guest]

Kreg sells a nice extruded aluminum track you can attach to the top of your fence for use with their flip-up stop. I built this fence for a tablesaw sled using the Kreg track and stop. As you can aee, it has a sliding section you can extend for repeat cuts up to 36" using the flip stop. While this was built for a sled, there's no reason you couldn't use the same design for a miter gauge. Just inset some track and use t bolts through your miter gauge to attach/adjust it.







You might want to rethink using solid hardwood for your fence. Solid wood will change dimension with humodity changes. That might - or might not be - a problem keeping the fence square. I've built several of these fences by laminating several pieces of baltic birch plywwd together to arrive at the thickness I needed. The BB ply is easy to work with and very stable when laminated.

My $.02. Good luck with your project.

Hank

[mike4244]

I attached two hold down clamps to the fence that clamps a stop block at the dimension needed.Most of the time one clamp of any kind to hold a stop block will do. I rabbet the stop block so saw dust does not collect on the fence and screw up the cut.
mike

[handi]

So, what have you decided?

Ralph

[Dumb_Polack]

Well...

This past Saturday I milled up a piece of hard maple. IIRC, it is about 54" long, maybe 3" tall (too lazy to go down and measure it) and maybe 1" thick. I cut the slot (towards the top) where my stop will run and then centered a few sawblades-width groove that goes all the way through. This will allow for the threads for my "T" stop (which I haven't built yet) to slide almost the whole length of the track. I did the "drop the wood over the spinning blade trick" to start this cut a few inches in from the end and stopped it a few inched form the other end. Bumped the fence over a repeated this process. I then cleaned up the curved part at the beginning of the cut and the end with my hollow chisel mortiser.

I did rough out a block that'll eventually be my stop out of another piece of hard maple, but that's as far as I got.

I might wrap it up some night this week. The all I will need to do is buy a glue down/stick down ruler on the top and calibrate it to the proper distance from the blade.


One thing I thought of though....this fence will only be good for cuts perpendicular to the fence. Need to think about how I can use it to make 45 degree cuts and such.