New kitchen cabinets... some assembly required
#11


A semi from Edensaw arrived today with my materials for my new kitchen cabinets... lots of work to do over the next few weeks... wish me luck!

Lawrence
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- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

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#12
Have fun. I don't build boxes anymore unless they are very odd. I just buy them from a cnc shop or other supplier. Don't like making boxes.
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#13
"A semi from Edensaw..." I can only wish.
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#14
Look forward to seeing your progress. Who made the cabinet parts? And did you buy just the boxes or everything?

John
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#15
I was just joking about the some assembly required- they are just 3/4 sheets of melamine for the cabinets. I'm making the boxes myself. The plan is Dominos to align and pocket holes to hold together. 3/4 for the boxes and 1/4 melamine for the backs. I'm using the adjustable plastic feet for the fronts and resting the backs of the cabinets on ledger boards leveled and attached to the walls.

Adjustable Shelf holes will be routed in with a jig, and I'm going frameless with painted Alder door frames (mortised with dominos), painted MDF Beadboard panels, and cherry drawers. Toe kicks will clip onto the adjustable legs.

I looked into getting the boxes made but couldn't find them for a reasonable price when compared to just buying the melamine. Total price for all the basic materials (11 sheets 3/4 melamine, 3 sheets 1/2 melamine, 5 sheets 1/4 melamine, 5 sheets of MDF, 75 bf of alder, 50 bf of cherry came in at about a grand - delivered to my shop. This was cheaper than even non-custom boxes alone from IKEA, let alone boxes and edgebanding in custom sizes.

I have the space to build, and am fortunate to have the space to store (100 x 66 foot barn + outbuildings) while I build in batches.

I'll post pics as I go along, but it is looking to be quite an adventure

I am going to do as some suggested, though and build BEFORE I tear out the old cabinets
Lawrence
Shazam!! You could be right!!!!!!!
- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

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#16
Thanks. That sounds like a good plan. And, yes, definitely build the new ones before tearing out the old. Otherwise, the stress level will take all the fun out of it, if there is any fun to be had in moving all that Melamine around. But I hear you, building yourself is definitely cheaper, and I'm cheap which is why I built mine.

John
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#17
TucsonLawrence said:


The plan is Dominos to align and pocket holes to hold together.


I have built quite a few frameless cabs with melamine. I would advise against pocket screws in particle board. Plus, you will have the issue of keeping the edges aligned when screwing. I just wouldn't use them.

Standard technique in most shops is screws from the outside straight in spaced about 6" apart using Confirmat (or similar) screws specifically made for particle board. There also will be a special drill and bit.

Dominoes are not necessary either. All you need are 90 degree clamping blocks and a few clamps to hold while drilling and screwing. You're just making more work than it needs to be. Trust me by the time you get to the 7th or 8th box you will see what I'm talking about.

I can assemble a bottom in less than 20 minutes and a top in about 25 and that's taking my time.

I strongly recommend Danny Proulx's book worth a look before you get started.
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#18
Thank you for the advice- it is greatly appreciated and Danny's book is my next-to read book- my plan was dominos and pocket screws for a couple of reasons...

1- I have the tools already
2- I hope to use the dominos as alignment guides while the pocket screws pull things together. If this doesn't work well Confirmat are my backup plan

Thanks again, please keep the inputs coming- it is appreciated and being very much considered

Lawrence
Shazam!! You could be right!!!!!!!
- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

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#19
I second the use of confirmat screws if you are building with melamine. It really works well. No need for alignment aids much either. For lots of panels, I've made purpose built 90 degree fixtures to hold parts while the first couple of screws are run home.

The big deal is the screws are visible in end cabinets, so you need to either use a secondary panel or use different jointery for the end panel.
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#20
Thanks again guys- Confirmat screws and bit ordered and on the way- I look forward to giving them a try.

Next question, do you put shelf adjustment holes in your uppers, or in both your uppers and lowers and do you use 5mm or other hole sizes

Lawrence
Shazam!! You could be right!!!!!!!
- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

my portfolio
http://s171.photobucket.com/user/ldr_klr/slideshow/portfolio?sort=6
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