WoodNet Forums: Re: Anybody want to build a UniSaw?

Okay lets deal with that arbor.

That bugger was tight with a capital T. I soaked the assembly all night last night and off and on today I sprayed it more. I tried to press it about noon and no joy.

So I bagged the arbor bracket up and put it the freezer. Left it there all afternoon. We'll get back to it hopfully. (The bag was just to keep grease off of the wife's hamburger packages

)

Let's get back to the base that we were working on. I left it unprimed so you can see how aggressive deep seated rust can be.

This area had been sandblasted a couple days ago and the rust comes right back into the pits. If an item is deeply pitted I will leave the item unprimed for a few days so I can see the rust spots again.

This allows a fresh pass with the sandblaster and hopefully a more effective job of rust removal.

So I cleaned that up again using 4030 silica and then hit it with the rattle can right away.

I like to use Krylon products and have just fine luck using the spray cans rather than using the spray booth and having to clean up the guns.

So anyway back to that arbor bracket

After freezing the item, I put it back into the press and heated the pulley with a torch. And heated it and pressed and heated it and pressed.

All we accomplished was bending the 1/8" thick steel plates supporting the press procedure.

There is a little bit of 'slack' in the overall arbor assembly that is taken up by a bearing spring. This slack began to show up as the bearings moved up and down in their 'seats' in the bracket.

So I decided to move the slack to the up side and support the pulley instead of the arbor bracket. Then I pressed again. Note the bracket is now in the press upside down.

This press was possible only because I removed the arbor blade flange prior to the press. If you have solid steel bar stock tall enough to support the pulley without placing the weight on bracket itself, you can try this 'right side up' or without removing the blade flange.

The goal here is just to break the bond between the pulley and the arbor.

I was fairly confident that the problem was with the pulley, because I was able to drive a thin blade screwdriver between the arbor spacers and the arbor pulley, moving the spacers ever so slightly.

The bearings are usually so tight on the arbor that you don't get rust underneath them. Plus I felt that the inside raceway would separate from the outside sleave on the bearing under the forces I was applying. To be sure I picked the side wall's off one of the bearings to allow it shear more easily if necessary.

After doing all that, it still came back to pressings the arbor backwards. It finally let go with a very loud bang. You can see the one bearing coming out in the bottom of the picture.

One more press left

After the arbor is pressed out it will have one bearing still on it. Back to the press.

The bearing and the spacer came right off.

Here is the arbor out and on the bench finally

You can see the blade flange is removed. The coarse threads on the left are where the blades seats. The fine threads just to the right of those are where the blade flange threads on.

The bearings are not fully pushed back on. For obvious reasons.

Note these bearings have an extended inner raceway. The bearing is wider or thicker at the inside or center.

This is important for you to know about if you choose to replace your saws bearings.

The two solid spacers on each side slide up to the bearings raceways. The pulley sandwiches between the two spacers.

When you go to buy new bearings for your rebuild, the extended raceway bearings are going to set you back some extra money. Somewhere betwen $15 and $30 more.

If you want to use a standard 6203 bearing, then a wider spacer is going to be required. I usually do that. The spacers are going to cost $15.00 from Delta, about the same as the difference in bearing price, but once you get the new spacers, you will be able to use the cheaper style bearings every time to rebuild.

As a side note I am looking for a supplier of these spacers. If anyone has any ideas for me, please PM or email me.

Finally a look at the arbor.

That's not Patina that's PITA!!!

The relatively clean spots on each end of the arbor are where the bearings were seated. The rusty area in between is what had the pulley bonded to the arbor.

For all the force we applied though, the arbor feels straight, isn't scored and we didn't flair either end. It should clean up fine.

And that's what we will tackle tomorrow if time allows.

Nite all,

Chris

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