MT-2(SS) said:

---

Just FYI,the funny looking washer is a Belleville washer.






A much larger version is used in the shock absorbers that are mounted to the missile support ring on a ballistic missile submarine. That where I first learned what they were.

More info than you want to know about Belleville washers.

---

MT,

Thanks for putting a proper name to the part.


Well I made it back. What a trip this one was. 3800 miles selling lumber and buying saws. Two breakdowns!

But my 7 year old daughter got to see a real light house and walk on a beach of the Atlantic Ocean.

Here are some of the Uni's that came home.



Look what else I saw at one of my stops.

A Fay and Egan Lightning! Got to run it and everything.



There was another big Powermatic sitting next to the Fay and Egan. You can see the green motor. But the camera was full. Seems like my daughter took 20 pictures out of the window in Ohio. Oh well, I did get a picture of two of the smaller planers.




Let's get back to rebuilding that arbor bracket.

We need to clean the parts. Remember that nasty arbor?



Don't do anything drastic with it. I just walk over to a common, cheapo bench grinder. I have removed one of the grinder wheels and replaced it with a Grizzly brass wire wheel.

It polishes quickly as you can see here.



We do the same wire wheel cleaning on the arbor flange. Normally this part would be on the arbor, but it's off so the gloves go on and we clean it.



This is the final cleaned product.



Worth $45 on eBay, $90 new, we are able to save it for pennies.

Notice the two different spacers on the arbor. They are just on here to show you the different thicknesses or widths. The one on the left is the newer style, the right the older spacer that are used with the earlier design of bearings.

See the bearings here. Note the how the inner raceway is thicker on the older style bearing. (on the left)



The middle bearing is a new bearing with an extended raceway. The bearing on the right is a standard 203 bearing that is readily available.

Here is your choice. Use the newer style, flat sided bearings. I buy them for $7.00 AND buy new spacers at $15.00 a pair.

or

You can reuse the older, thinner spacers and get bearings with extended raceways. I have to have them ordered in and they run about $23.00 a piece.

It's a wash on this changeout, but I usually prefer to change to the new style bearings and the thicker spacers.

So you need two arbor bearings.

Here I have selected two Timken/Fafnir 6203 bearings. These are still made in America and seem to be of good quality. I have also had good luck with Czech made ZKL's and the NTN brand (I forget what country they are made in). Essentially, here there is no reason to save $5.00. Stick with American, German, Portuguese bearings etc.

Even Tawain bearings, but don't bother with the Chinese ones.




We still need to get a pulley or sheeve ready

Here is a picture of two arbor pulleys. These pulleys are machined steel, have one or two set screws and a keyway to secure them to the arbor. They are usually balanced with a couple holes drilled opposite the set screw(s) hole(s).

The one on the left is the pulley that came out of the bracket we have been working on. While it is very rusty and we had to work pretty hard at it, we could still save it. Here is how I evaluate pulleys for life. I feel the edge of the peaks between the belt slots. See the red arrows?



As the pulley wears, these ridges get sharper and sharper. I have seen ones that would actually cut you. Those pulleys need to be changed. The pulley on the left is a bit worn. Lets face it, this pulley would probably last another 50 years in most of our shops, but I will be selling this saw eventually so let's do it right.

We'll use the pulley on the right.

After powderblasting it looks like this, we'll polish it on the wire wheel in a minute.



While we were blasting the pulley, I also hit the arbor bracket. I like to powderblast the teeth to get adhesives, caked material out of the teeth. I then mask the teeth and the bearing pockets prior to paint.

Don't get to agressive with the bearing seats. They need to be clean, but you don't want to remove any extra casting material.




Off to do some painting and we'll be back pretty soon.

Don't change that channel ( always wanted to say that.)

--------------------
I may be wierd now, but I'm saving to be eccentric.

Post Extras