This time, it's for us. The missus is due July 4, and she wants a moon cradle. I've spent some time searching the web and have found some basic plans for the idea. Seems super simple, and since she wants to paint it silvery, I can build it from poplar.

Has anybody else here built one, and if so, have any advice that I haven't already read?

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&c...YJlyxZayZA

I was given a 220V, 2hp, 3ph mirror that fits my Delta BS (56 frame). I already have a phase converter, so that's not an issue.

I do a lot of resawing (with a proper blade, of course). It currently has a 3/4hp motor.

Is there any reason I *shouldn't* use a motor with this rating? I know it's overkill, but free is free, and if it's an upgrade, well, it's free.

Here it is, version 2 after some tweaking. I found that it seems to do well at roughing raised panels, or the one test panel anyway....Something I was not thinking about but I will take that as a win. Questions if you like.
           

Thanks for looking.
Ag

I have a Shark Guard splitter on my PM66, and I take it on and off a lot. This nut like to get a little loose. Is there a spanner wrench that would fit? If not I'll have to make one.

Thanks.

I’ve been looking at various hollowing systems for turning vessels and curious whether anyone has experience with the Crown Revolution Turning System (https://www.hartvilletool.com/product/35...ing-system). I’ve been using the Sorby Hollowmaster for a while. Also curious as to recommendations/opinions on alternative hollowing systems.

Thanks,
John

I'm re-assembling my 16" Walker Turner bandsaw after a refurbishment. This saw weighs 500 lbs.+; lots of cast iron so it's pretty heavy. Thinking about picking up this one from Shopfox. The footprint needed is approximately 12 1/2" x 24 1/2". This model is a little large footprint-wise but supports up to 700 lbs. according to the specs.

Looking for recommendations, suggestions and comments, please.

Thanks,

Doug

Well, I got the new fence delivered earlier today. Unfortunately, although it was a bit flatter than the original fence, it wasn't perfect. I still tried, though, and I could get it to within a bit less than .004 of straight (and that was only at one spot). Still, when I checked for square (both directly and through cutting), it wasn't much more up to par than before. I made a discovery though, which just so happens to be, I believe, the MAIN culprit, which actually is NOT the bowing of the fence: the orientation of the fence in relation to the blade (compounded by the design of the screws and screw holes, as discussed in my other thread).

Here's how it happened: I tried loosening all the screws, thinking that maybe the fence overall wasn't mounting properly. I noticed A LOT of play in the fence on the right side of the table, so I tried screwing just the endmost screw on the left in and pushing the fence on the right side back as far as it would go. Then, I checked the right side of the saw for squareness...it was pretty much perfect! 

Of course, the screw design that I brought up prevents any type of adjustment more than a few thousandths, and this would require at least 1/16" or so (pics below of where the fence sits with the screws all the way in vs. how the fence NEEDS to be (the one with my hand pressing against the fence is this one)). I've made my final decision about this: As much as I wish the stock parts were up to par, I'm gonna have to get my own screws and washers and use that method to hold the fence in place. 

As my and Stwood jointly discovered in my first thread on this issue, the mounting screw designs seem to have changed on these DeWalt miter saws recently. I actually spoke with a DeWalt technician earlier today to ask about it, and although it took some searching on his part, he did find the previous generation screws. Unfortunately, they're discontinued, so that confirms the key design flaw here: the mounting screws and their holes. I let him know on the phone about the lack of being able to adjust the fence with this new design, and he saw my point and said he'd pass the word on. I'm still going to send a formal e-mail to them, though, once I get the issue fixed (with pics) just to make it stone-cold crystal clear that this new screw (and screw hole) design was a HORRENDOUS idea. 

Here's the thing, though...I know I need a washer that would be a tad bigger than the upper lip of the holes (DeWalt technician specified this as well), but would I need to put one or two smaller ones underneath just so there is some additional support? Also, in looking up how to re-align a dovetail jointer, I found a video by Grizzly Industrial that said you can take small metal shims and insert them where needed. I think it might make the fence fix more permanent if I could find something to put in the track in my miter saw's table that would help hold the fence tightly in its rightful position. I'm glad this will be a dirt cheap fix rather than something expensive, and even though it's technically a mod, it's not something major or surgical in nature.

I REALLY hope DeWalt either takes my advice straight to the top or gets a BUNCH more complaints about the screw design from others. It's a BAD, BAD design, and it certainly is not up to the caliber of the rest of the saw.

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I've had a SuperMax 19-38 for a few years and decided after building Christmas presents for my family, I'd like to build something for my shop.  I want to build storage in the base for sandpaper sheets, rolls, pads, and other accessories.

I'm looking for ideas, anyone here build storage in their SuperMax base?

Thanks,

Gary

Update:  At this point I will only say that it really helps if you use a straight reference edge. 


I used a sheet of 3/4" melamine covered particle board that apparently has a curve from being stored on edge. 


Checked outfeed table and it is low on the outboard end by about the thickness of a piece of paper so I think I can take care of that.

Thanks for the help! 


Original post:
What causes a dip in the middle of a board when you're jointing it?

I haven't used my 8" jointer to make a joint in several years and when I tried to get some 6" maple ready to glue together for some work table tops (45" square) it left a 1/8th inch or so gap between the boards in the middle so I know something is out of adjustment -- but what?

I think it's a Delta but all plates have been removed in the restoration process and I can't find them right now.  It has adjustment wheels under the beds.  

I'm at the "domino" stage of moving into my new shop -- I need to finish the tables and storage racks to get the rest of the stuff moved in, but the things I need to work on those things either are in town or need to worked on -- and the tools/parts/etc are in town. 


So getting the jointer working will be the first step in getting to the next step.  Looked online and found manuals, but they were for models using a lever adjustment, not the wheels mine has.. 

Any help will be appreciated.


Here's what it looks like

Well this is weird!

A table saw turned into a cannon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fnx3ipM-rqA