This vintage bit came in a group tool buy. It needs an adjustment screw/bolt. The slot has been severely abused. Any ideas as to where I can obtain one?

Thanks

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What species of wood do any of you use and like in making game call blanks. I promised my neighbor's son that I was going to make him a deer grunt call for this fall's hunt. In return after a couple of days, he brought over a 2# package of venison burger and a nice shoulder roast. I guess what goes around comes around. Anyway, I am cutting up some 1 1\2" X 1 1\2" game call blanks and was wondering about favorite choices of wood to use. I have already cut up some 1 1'2 " Black Walnut, Semi-Spalted Maple and Beech. I have ready for the table saw Red Oak, Red Cedar and Honey Locust for now. I have other woods I have that I can cut up but would want some opinions if any of them would be better suited than others. They are going to be subjected to harsh weather in the late Fall and Winter. Any and all opinions would be welcome.
Tim.

Hi,

Recently competed a small box about 10" x 8" x 4" high.

Inside are two trays that stack on top of each other. They lift out.

Finish is shellac. It was applied weeks ago and is cured.

When lifting the top tray out the bottom tray keeps sticking to the top one, so they come out together. I need to sort of snap them apart.

I'm guessing the shellac is binding them together.

No wax was applied, but do you think a bit on the bottom of the top tray would eliminate this?

Thanks, Mike

Both are priced around $500 and both appear to be in good condition. The General has a 220v 1.5 hp motor, and I'm not sure which motor the PM has, other than it is 220v.

a couple questions -

Which are known to be better machines?

Which (if either) would be easier to modify to run with a vfd, as I want to be able to reduce the speed to 100rpm or so? Both currently have 220v motors.

If it is a tossup, then what would be your tie-breaker as far as other characteristics? Condition? Previous maint? How hard it was run?

Thanks!

Ok, I came across some very worthy tools lately, some crisp, and at the end some Barn Fresh, so let's get started.


First up, a Stanley 923 10" throw brace, in excellent condition, nickle all intact, for heaven's sake the jaws in the chuck still have the factory blueing on them, very little use, zero, zero apologies, excellent example that will make a good user for someone, they just don't make 'em like this anymore, if I had the box it would be NOS if not for the scratches on the top knob; yours for $35 plus shipping, pics:










Next up are some bits, "short" set of 6 vintage Craftsman bits from the 50's, early 60's, ## 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16, most commonly used sizes.  All have good flutes and lead screws are not buggered up, Irwin pattern, most likely made by Irwin for Sears, they spec'd em well back in the day; Yours for $30 plus shipping, and if you buy the 923 brace, package deal is $60 shipped, so if you've got a hankering for a very nice brace and bit set, pull the trigger before someone snags either one.  Pics:






Next are some very nice vintage chisels and gouges from excellent makers; all will make great users, in sizes not regularly found, nice condition, front and back, I don't find nice ones like this too often; from right to left:

1 1/4" Sargent bevel edge, great shape, $22 plus shipping; 1 1/4" Stanley Everlast, lots of guys want a complete set and this is often missing, $35 plus shipping; James Swan 1/4", $15 plus shipping; now for the gouges, a 5/8" Mix, a 3/4 Mix and a 7/8 Witherby, take your pick for $15 plus shipping or take all three, which would make a nice user set, for $40 plus shipping; Pics:











As always, first PM with an unequivocal "I'll take it" gets priority, and please include your full shipping address so I can quote postage and print up mailing labels; I don't have paypal, so payment by USPS money order please, unless I know you from the forum then checks are just fine.

Tools that I've given the once over and would own myself, priced reasonably.  Thanks for looking.


EDIT:  I HIT THE PIC LIMIT, LOOK BELOW FOR MORE STUFF.

This'in sports a 1 11/16'' A2 blade, bedded at 50 degrees.  The sole is 6 3/8''.  It's made with Bocote.  $485 gets it to your doorstep (within the US).
200 2 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 11 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 6 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 8 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 10 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 13 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 14 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 16 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr
200 15 by Lazarus 13, on Flickr

Our local woodworker's guild decided on Glen Huey's Connecticut Lowboy from a 2014 Poplar Woodworking article for a group build in January. I decided on walnut (basically because I had the 12/4 necessary for the legs) although we also had members use cherry, sapele and mahogany. Fortunately, we have a talented woodworker that served as our mentor through the build process. Build went fairly well and we followed Mr. Huey's plans pretty closely although we changed the legs slightly at the point where they connect with the bottom molding and we didn't angle the sides as he describes in the article. This was my first attempt at cabriole legs and really any amount of carving in a project. Pretty happy with the results. This furniture style is not really my style but I wanted to try it at least once and it fits in with the foyer in the house. Walnut with poplar secondary wood, finish is BLO followed by a wiping varnish and a coat of black wax. 

Comments and critiques welcome -













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It seems like I can go years without finding early Disston saws, today I find two.


Both came from the same flea market, two different vendors though. I believe both are late 1840's to early 1850's. The first medallion is a full sized saw, the second is a backsaw.

I read that one cannot joint a stock with just any disk sander. To joint with a disk sander, it has to have a slight shallow cone shape, about two degrees.

So one mounts such a disk on the table saw and tilts the arbor two degrees.

I understand the mechanics of this but I am not sure that this is practically important.

In a plain (plane) disk sander, one must avoid jointing more than the radius to avoid upward spin of the disk. One can readily avoid this without any cone shape of the disk.

One joints with a slight angle, as much as 5 degrees off. One accepts the "coving effect" in jointing, that is hollowing in the middle of the edge of a stock for jointing. Cosine 5 degree is 0.996. 4 thousandths out of a one-inch stock, 3 thousandths out of 4/4 stock.

Moreover, one mostly  joint 4/4 stock for a wider board. One can set the table 3/8 inch lower than the center point of the arbor of the disk. This way, both faces of the stock will be the same and the deepest hollow of the stock will be at the center of the edge of the stock. When gluing,  the pressure will seal the 0.003 inch.

I hope I am right.

15 year old roof ventilation fan's motor died, got replacement motor specific to the originally installed motor. Dead motor had electrical connection with BX cable which served as a ground, replacement just has hot and neutral wires. Do I really need to jury rig up a ground, as anyone going up to the top of the  roof to work on it will cut the power, I put in a cutoff switch when installed.