I have a Bailey #3 type 11 flat bottom plane for sale. The sides have been precision ground square to the bottom, and the bottom has also been precision ground and is flat within .001.The japanning for the most part is in excellent condition. it was a little dull and some missing at the toe and heel. I touched it up with a coat of paint. The top of the blade has also been precision touched up so no lapping is necessary. I also sharpened it. The tote is stained cherry and the knob is walnut. The knob and tote were made by me. Yes I am prejudice but this is one of the nicest little plane to come along in quit a while.

Asking $110 shipped conus.

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

I am working on a walnut project.  I want to dye or stain the lighter areas to reduce the contracts with the darker areas - I am not trying to match just want to get the lighter areas a little darker and I need to fill some holes, cracks, etc.  I need a filler that will take the dye/stain.  I will be using Watco Danish Oil and poly to finish it after everything is filled and dyed.  The Watco will make things a little browner, but it doesn't really darken the lighter areas that much.  Suggestions?  DAP has a wood filler that matches Walnut surprisingly well but you can't really dye it and it doesn't take the oil, so it always looks lighter than the rest of the wood.

Did woodnet change how their counting users browsing, the numbers are an order of magnitude higher then a couple of weeks ago.

I have a husqvarna pressure washer that I picked up on clearance from Lowes a few years back its model 020711 which is a 2.5gpm 3100 psi model.

I started it up yesterday and the motor runs fine, but it wont pump water, I’d like to replace the pump with a Cat brand pump, I know I would need to keep similar pump ratings, and match the shaft size, but if I do that, will the bolt pattern line up?

Nobody local carry’s the pumps, and I’d like to know before I order it.  

Or if I can find a measured drawing of the Cat pump, I could measure my bolt pattern.

Thanks 
Duke

Even with a 10% discount...
   
That Stanley 2-3/8" iron was $12..but..
   
Was $90 + tax!  Union No. 41...from BEFORE Stanley ground off the "UNION" labels...

Has both 5/16" cutters.

Asking price was $100....got the 20% off Offer cut to 10%...
A bit of chipping at the base of the knob...otherwise it is in fine shape..


Was that kind of a day, yesterday..
   
And..OUCH!
   
Could have gotten a wooden Match set...
   
But, went with the Union #41 instead...

Simple rule:  IF a tool is in one of these..
   
And they have to come and unlock the doors...$$$....a very late model Stanley #4-1/2 (post WW2 era) was $125+tax?
Saws?
   
There was a saw hanging just above this one...
   
Road Trip was a bit expensive....

(Not exactly woodworking but related).  Over the years I have always wished for some way to join two metal pieces without resorting to screws or bolts or figuring out how to do the project with wood (for example, installing a small cleat on a tubular steel bar).  Mind you, I am no machinist!

HValley Tools, AKA MLCS, is advertising a small handheld welder for a reasonable price (currently on sale for $135):

https://www.hvalleytools.com/product/z52...er/welders

Does anyone have any experience with this device or something similar, or have any thoughts about how useful the tool might be for light welding?

Gary

I needed to make some off angle parts the other day.  That is not as easy with a RAS as it is with a CMS since the RAS only has detents at 90 and 45 degrees.  Yes, the angle gage I made helps for standard angles, but for other angles it's suck and seek.  That started me thinking about a better way.  Around the same time, I watched a YouTube guy demonstrate the Duby Sled.  Eureka, I can adapt that idea to the RAS.  And here it is:



It's just about exactly the size of two Duby sleds, side by side, 38" wide by 27" deep with 30" fences.  It uses the same pivot system concept that I use on my shooting boards, which keeps the edge of the fence exactly at the edge of the blade no matter the angle.  The miter table is held in place by a cleat on the bottom at the back that goes into the space normally occupied by the fence in the normal setup.  It slides in and out easily.     

You can cut any angle up to 50 degrees w/o moving the saw arm and the fences never need to be replaced because the saw always travels the same path. For 90 degree cuts, leave both fences in place.  Angled trim cuts also can be made with both fences in place by rotating one fence.  For angled cutoffs, however, one fence needs to be removed.  This is easily done by removing the holding knobs and lifting the fence off.  



The above photo also shows the stops behind both fences, which are used to calibrate the fences to exactly 0 degrees.  

There is an angle scale on both sides of the table for setting the fence at the correct angle.  I put lines on it for 4 sided (45 deg) to 20 sided (10 deg) frames, plus a couple of other angles.  



This has nothing to do with the miter table, but cut quality of this saw/blade is outstanding. 

 
The miter sled is going to make it much easier to produce high quality miter cuts for angles besides 45 degrees.  Not having to swivel the saw arm assures calibration remains unaffected.  Now I need to add a length stop system.  

John

Does anyone know the thread size & length of the bolt for DeWalt's belt clips? Trying to replace one but can't find any information on them.  I'll try to post a pic of what I'm talking about... 

[font="Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]I knew when I bought this machine that it was missing the power feed side housing cover (see Picture). The 1946 parts list shows it as HD-126 - the machine itself is, I believe, 1940. Appreciate any help you can offer. Best case is I find one that the owner wants to move along. 2nd best case I can find someone who is willing to loan me theirs as a pattern for casting.[/font]

[font="Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Thanks[/font]
[font="Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Rick[/font]

   

   

   
This should work!