+- Woodnet Forums (https://www.forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw (/showthread.php?tid=7157302)
Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - bennybmn - 12-02-2015
So I'm working my way up to making a Roubo bookstand. A big part of that is cutting down the middle from both sides. So far, I've only done it on some small pine pieces (1x4), just to see if I could do it. I tried a back saw, and a small Japanese saw... Both have their drawbacks. The pull saw gave the best cut, but it's too flexy I think, so it didn't track well.
So I'm hoping you guys can help me by telling me what to look for. Depending on the brand and website, the word "rip" isn't always in the description! Panel saw? Dozuki? Specific suggestions? I have a small dovetail saw, but it has very limited cutting depth! Eventually I'll need to cut in 6 or 8 inches. I don't mind a thicker blade if that'll give the best results!
Side topic, has anyone ever made one? There's some good youtube videos out there of it! Here's my second test piece.
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - kompera - 12-02-2015
I made a couple about 2 years ago, cut them with a pull saw and had exactly that tracking issue even though I scored the cuts... ended up with a curved book stand.
It kind of worked out in the end for my purposes, but I certainly wouldn't have wanted to present them to anyone as "fine woodworking."
I wanted my skinniest saw for the finest kerf, but I suspect a stiffer plate would have mitigated the problem at the expense of kerf width. Curious if anyone has found a good balance?
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - Rob Young - 12-02-2015
A good vintage 22" to 28" rip saw will do the trick. You can also buy rip saws new.
Vintage : D7, D8 or D12 filed rip but lots of other brands out there
New (and not terribly expensive) : PAX or Thomas Flinn branded rip saws. Other more expensive choices do exist. And some cheaper but you would need to re-file the teeth from x-cut to rip.
Maybe a 5-1/2ppi would be about right. I think I used one that was 8ppi and while it worked, it was slow due to the gullets clogging. I now have a couple of 5-1/2ppi rippers that I like but I haven't gone back and tried again to make one of these since my first couple many years ago.
Ask down in the S&S area of the forum for a solid user, filed rip but not too expensive. You should be able to get something already re-habbed for under $50 plus a little or shipping. Or you could do it yourself for about the same price ($5 for the saw and the rest in files, saw set and associated shipping...)
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - AHill - 12-02-2015
The most affordable option is a Japanese ryoba pull saw. You get both a crosscut and rip in the same saw, and you aren't limited by depth of cut. The spineless version of a Japanese saw is called a kataba, and those are also around $30 or less. The blade is a bit stiffer than a dozuki, where there is a spine. Most katabas and dozukis are filed crosscut or combination, but they do a very good job in rip. They do indeed make rip dozukis and katabas. Try Tools from Japan (WoodNet Schtoo's store). He's got a whole array of very good saws. If you can't stand the wait to get it shipped from Japan, then Traditional Woodworker has a rip kataba for $50.95. Woodcraft has a smaller ryoba on sale for $29.99.
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - MarvW - 12-02-2015
Hi Benny,
Here's a handy little saw. I've had one for a number of years and a few days ago, bought another one for only $12.50 plus shipping on eBay for my son. It has rip teeth on one edge and crosscut on the other. The blade is stiff enough to not kink or bend easily, but quite thin for the kind of work you are doing. If you can find one, more than likely, it will need sharpening.
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - Wilbur Pan - 12-02-2015
bennybmn said:
So I'm working my way up to making a Roubo bookstand. A big part of that is cutting down the middle from both sides. So far, I've only done it on some small pine pieces (1x4), just to see if I could do it. I tried a back saw, and a small Japanese saw... Both have their drawbacks. The pull saw gave the best cut, but it's too flexy I think, so it didn't track well.
If your Japanese saw was not tracking well, the most common reason for that was that you’re applying too much force when you’re sawing. The best method of doing this is to just move the saw back and forth, as if you weren’t trying to advance the saw at all. It will naturally move through the cut, and will go straighter.
I know this sounds counterintuitive, because it seems like pulling the saw in the direction that you want it to go would make it track better. But you really want to not force the saw through the cut.
The other thing to do is practice. The great thing about hand sawing is that if you have scrap wood, you can practice saw cuts.
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - Roger A - 12-02-2015
Frame saws are also an option. You can get both CC and rip blades.
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - Phil S. - 12-02-2015
I suspect you've already seen these, but just in case-
http://video.pbs.org/video/2172468729/
http://www.woodwrightschool.com/downloadable-plans/Book%20Stand.jpg
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - bennybmn - 12-02-2015
Phil S. said:
I suspect you've already seen these, but just in case-
http://video.pbs.org/video/2172468729/
http://www.woodwrightschool.com/downloadable-plans/Book%20Stand.jpg
Yup! I saw that episode. Coincidentally, I also saw a 'sode where he had a guy making hand saws in, and he gave some good advice when they were cutting the kerf for the blade. Don't cut a line you can't see. In other words, start with the work piece in the vise at an angle, so you're cutting into a corner, you can see two sides at once. Then rotate the piece and start another corner. Rinse, repeat. You can't see 3 sides of a rectangular object at once!
Also thank you all for the suggestions and comments so far. Keep em coming!
Re: Need some suggestions; I think I need a rip saw - Anji12305 - 12-05-2015
To reiterate, most saws track straighter with a light touch.
If you feel that you must 'bear down' to get the saw to cut, it's time for a fresh blade, or a trip to sharpening.
If you want absolute surety on such a deep cut, apply a couple of straight battens to guide the saw along.
You can make them from UHMW plasic or straight grained hardwood.
I prefer to make battens from 3/8" (or better) Baltic Birch.
Lastly - to get the straightest possible cut, you need to see what you're doing. If you can't get direct daylight, try a task light.