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+-- Thread: handsaw recommendations (/showthread.php?tid=7204148)
handsaw recommendations - dow - 01-26-2016
I'm working on gathering some tools and am looking for some advice on a good, inexpensive saw or two. I know from what I've read, that I need a crosscut and a rip saw, but apparently the Texas Hill Country wasn't on the list of destinations for good vintage handsaws. Possibly the worst thing I could have done was to watch Mike Siemsen's tool video, where he goes to the Midwest Tool Collectors Meet, because now I'm looking for a bargain, lol.
Where do you go for decent handsaws? Also, what's a fair price to pay for decent handsaws?
Any ideas?
thanks.
Re: handsaw recommendations - DonSlaughter - 01-27-2016
I just googled craigs list San Antonio and found this https://austin.craigslist.org/tls/5419680710.html
I'll bet there are a ton of vintage saws at swap meets and garage sales in and around San Antonio....isn't that about 20 miles from you. Then there is ebay which has some very reliable dealers. Vintage saws are not that hard to find...and the one in the ad above was $30....doubt you'll beat that price although I've bought MANY great saws for $5, $10 and $20 bucks browsing garage sales on an early Saturday morning.
good luck
Re: handsaw recommendations - Carl Grover - 01-27-2016
Anybody know what that funky looking shoeshine box looking thing is in the Craigslist ad?
Carl
Re: handsaw recommendations - RoundToit - 01-27-2016
The shoebox looking thing looks like a seed planter of some kind. May not be, but it looks like one to me.
Price for a decent handsaw will vary, but you need to add in a cost for bringing it up to working order. Broken teeth, bent or kinked blades, uncomfortable handles, dull teeth, poor or improper set on the teeth are all considerations. Shape of the teeth and TPI for the type of work you plan are a consideration also. There are also back saws to consider.
The good thing is there are plenty of $2 and $5 rusty saws out there to practice on, but it would introduce you to needing more tools, which can go on to infinity. Welcome to the slope.
Rick
Re: handsaw recommendations - Steve Friedman - 01-27-2016
Carl Grover said:
Anybody know what that funky looking shoeshine box looking thing is in the Craigslist ad?
Is that some sort of miter jack?
As for saws, I would keep watching SnS, even post a WTB (want to buy) asking if anyone has some for sale. You can also PM some of the more well known sellers like Admiral and SteveF. You might even contact some of the tool accumulators, like Timberwolf, to see if they have any they're willing to part with.
Steve
Re: handsaw recommendations - Wilbur Pan - 01-27-2016
If a Japanese saw isn’t out of the question, try a Gyokucho #611 ryoba. A ryoba is a double sided saw, one side rip, and the other crosscut. It’s like two saws in one. It’s available for $42 or so.
http://www.hidatool.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1546
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/155672/9-12-Double-Edge-(Ryoba)-RazorSaw-for-Hardwoods.aspx
Re: handsaw recommendations - Rob Young - 01-27-2016
Wilbur Pan said:
If a Japanese saw isn’t out of the question, try a Gyokucho #611 ryoba. A ryoba is a double sided saw, one side rip, and the other crosscut. It’s like two saws in one. It’s available for $42 or so.
http://www.hidatool.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1546
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/155672/9-12-Double-Edge-(Ryoba)-RazorSaw-for-Hardwoods.aspx
I've always wanted to try one of these kind but just can't find the time! Certainly not because of the cost anymore.
While not having the greatest handle in the world, you can purchase a "Great Neck" branded saw that can be resharpened for around $30 new. Plenty of wood on the handle so it can be reshaped. Comes as a 12-pt "crosscut-ish" filing. I believe this is the model but I'd have to check what I have at home to be sure.
It sharpened up just fine and works very well. You could refile as rip but 12-pt is getting a bit fine if you plan to use it for anything except 4/4 and no resawing.
A decent enough fixer-upper should be under $10 but will also cost you the supplies to fix it up. That can run up past $50 if you include any shipping to buy files, etc.
A couple of good alternatives would be to contact Daryl Weir or GregoryOfSherwoodForest (aka Rusthunter) and see if they have anything available as either restored but user-grade or a good starter project saw.
Re: handsaw recommendations - Admiral - 01-27-2016
The thing about handsaws is that even if you buy a new or restored sharp saw, it gets dull, so you eventually have to learn how to sharpen (it is just another sharpening skill and if I can acquire it, anyone can). If you don't, you have to send them out, and it's not cheap to have a saw jointed and hand filed. And there is the idea of finding them at flea markets and garage sales, but then you have to get the rust off them, re-form the teeth, sometimes multiple times if you have broken teeth, or send it out for retoothing, etc. So rehabbing old saws is a labor of love for the user and while a learning curve, its been a satisfying experience for me. You will need to get or make a saw vice, saw set, files, etc.
This is why Japanese saws, which have replaceable blades, are attractive to get one's feet wet using handsaws, so that is one option. And they work really well too.
But if you are committed to a "western" handsaw, another option is to make or re-purpose a handle, and order a saw plate from Blackies Boy (TGIAG.com) who will punch whatever tooth size and type you wish, then you really cut down on all the dirty work of rehab, and only have to lightly shape to your preferred rake, then sharpen the teeth. I have a nice 22" panel saw plate, punched 10 pt cc that I got from him and matched it up with a handle, and it cuts well, although not taper ground like a vintage Disston or Atkins, etc., but it hangs over my bench and I use it regularly.
Finally, Rob's suggestion of the Great Neck intrigues me; my only question is I would prefer carbon steel as opposed to a "chrome nickel" alloy, but others who know more about metallurgy might want to comment on its edge retention characteristics.
Re: handsaw recommendations - Rob Young - 01-27-2016
Admiral said:
Finally, Rob's suggestion of the Great Neck intrigues me; my only question is I would prefer carbon steel as opposed to a "chrome nickel" alloy, but others who know more about metallurgy might want to comment on its edge retention characteristics.
I can't say for sure if I found the right link on Amazon. The one I bought a couple years ago does sharpen well and seems to stay sharp but I'm not using it 24/7 either.
Note: went back through Amazon purchase history and this is the model I purchased. So far, so good. Probably on its 2nd real sharpening and still working just fine. My typical use is with USA domestic soft and hard woods so it really isn't getting abused by high silica-content woods.
Re: handsaw recommendations - dow - 01-27-2016
Wilbur, Thanks for all the recommendations and advice. I think that I'll take a closer look at the Japanese saws. The "two for one" blade as well as having them be replaceable has me leaning that way. Funny thing, though. On the first saw you linked, for the Gyokucho #611 Ryoba, I've found two other sources for the same size saw, but they have different tooth counts. The hida tool one is 20/10, amazon and woodcraft are both 14/7. Which one would you recommend?