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+-- Thread: Help finishing Maple (/showthread.php?tid=7323961)
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Help finishing Maple - ruffcutt - 10-17-2016
I have a maple butcher block bar top to finish. I need to match the best I can the color that's on the cabinets in the pictures. As you can see there is some blotch on the cabinets and the customer is OK with some blotching but I want as little as I can.
I have some Charles Niel blotch control (I've never used this product yet) I was planing to apply the blotch control according to the directions.
Then take sample pieces of the butcher block with the blotch control on it to a local paint store and see if they could match the satin on the cabinets.
What do you think
<img src="http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/IMG_2396%20Large_zpslz8pfnxh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2396 Large_zpslz8pfnxh.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/IMG_2397%20Large_zpse0ezjt7v.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2397 Large_zpse0ezjt7v.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/IMG_2399%20Large_zpsth4ccaro.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2399 Large_zpsth4ccaro.jpg"/>
RE: Help finishing Maple - joe1086 - 10-17-2016
Looks like the counter top has much more color variation than the cabinets. Can you prep the bottom side of the counter top smooth enough to do some experiments?
RE: Help finishing Maple - ruffcutt - 10-17-2016
(10-17-2016, 02:13 PM)joe1086 Wrote: Looks like the counter top has much more color variation than the cabinets. Can you prep the bottom side of the counter top smooth enough to do some experiments?I have a piece of the top left over 24" by 30" I though I'd use for experiment.
RE: Help finishing Maple - Splinter Puller - 10-17-2016
I would brush on a couple coats of glue sizing on the counter tops and sand smooth. Then, I'd spray on a few coats of alcohol based aniline dye to tone the counter tops to match the cabinets and finish with a few coats of waterborne varnish.
You will probably have to mix and match your dye to get a perfect blend color match.
RE: Help finishing Maple - cputnam - 10-17-2016
Transtint in Shellac to get the color you want to be followed by a clear, water-based topcoat. Note that shellac will also act as blotch control. The topcoat will provide the necessary durability.
IMO & YMWV
RE: Help finishing Maple - MichaelS - 10-17-2016
Curt suggested the route I would go. Though my first shellac coat would be a thinned version, say .5-.75 lb (either mix your own or find unwaxed and cut w/ alchohol 4:1) for the first coat. A quick knockdown with 220 or whatever final sanding grit you used and another coat with transtint in it and you'll be ready for whatever topcoat you desire for durability. WB Lacquer or WB poly would be my recommendations depending on water requirements / durability.
You'll need to play a bit w/ the transtint AND I would strongly advise you borrow a door from the existing installation if you can to compare under the same shop lighting!!!! DAMHIKT
Michael
RE: Help finishing Maple - jteneyck - 10-17-2016
I have a slight variation on some of the above recommendations. I would spray Transtint dye on first to get the lightest color you see in the cabinets. This should help reduce some of the contrast between your light and dark woods. And you almost certainly will need a custom mix of two or more dyes to get the color right. Then I'd spray a coat of SealCoat shellac. Next I'd apply a glaze to bring it to the final color, which should also mask whatever color variation you still have. Then another coat of SealCoat shellac, followed by your clear coats. No guarantees, of course, and you will have to make a lot of samples to find the combination that works best. Not an easy task you have there. Personally, I would aim for a complimentary, darker color, so that I could better unify the large color variation you have.
John
RE: Help finishing Maple - MikeBob - 10-17-2016
I agree, it is hard to get a perfect match even for a pro. I would go darker in complimentary shade. Dye, wipe on/off a 50/50 BLO and MS, or an oil based stain to pop the grain. Another coat of thinned Shellac. Then your top coat.
RE: Help finishing Maple - joe1086 - 10-18-2016
LIL
I assume this is going to be a working counter top? I wonder how the suggested finishes will hold up to everyday kitchen use.....perhaps a mineral oil/beeswax treatment would be more practical.
RE: Help finishing Maple - ruffcutt - 10-18-2016
It's not a work surface it a like a breakfast bar top a place to set and have coffee or eat.
It's going to replace the temporary bar top.
<img src="http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/IMG_2403%20Large_zpslorycgip.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2403 Large_zpslorycgip.jpg"/>