+- Woodnet Forums (https://www.forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) (/showthread.php?tid=7324444)
Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - Adnick - 11-01-2016
Listening to FWW Shop Talk Live while working in the shop and those guys said to sand cherry to prevent blotching, even after planning with a smoother, go back and sand 150, 220, 400, 600....in context, they were not talking about a production shop, they were talking about guys like me, non vocational wood workers, one off type of stuff.
This is not the my go to method, so of course I could be doing it wrong, but I don't go back and start a sanding process at 150-220 after I have just used a smoother.
However these are the same guys that built a Shaker workbench without dog holes, then when called on the lack of dog holes, argued that dog holes were not needed on woodworking benches.....
So how do other " non vocational" hand tool woodworkers prep cherry for finishing to prevent blotches?
Regards,
Andy
Mos Maiorum
RE: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - Scoony - 11-01-2016
For one thing, I don't sweat too much over cherry blotching. I can never seem to get a perfect surface with planes alone, so I usually lightly sand with 220 grit. Not sure why one would need to go courser then that. Also, sanding with too fine a grit may cause more problems with blotching.
RE: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - Mike Brady - 11-01-2016
I sand cherry after planing it, but not past 220. The best way I have found to prevent blotching is to wipe on coats of cut shellac and then use green Scotch-brite to smooth it. You can stop there or put a topcoat of wipe-on or spray finish for more protection. Some will just wax over the shellac. I'm doing a cherry piece right now.
RE: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - Admiral - 11-01-2016
(11-01-2016, 10:27 AM)Mike Brady Wrote: I sand cherry after planing it, but not past 220. The best way I have found to prevent blotching is to wipe on coats of cut shellac and then use green Scotch-brite to smooth it. You can stop there or put a topcoat of wipe-on or spray finish for more protection. Some will just wax over the shellac. I'm doing a cherry piece right now.
^^^^^This. Google "spit coat shellac"
I use about a one pound cut, actually less. Dries quickly.
RE: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - David Katz - 11-01-2016
I agree. Plane to glass smooth. Lightly (very lightly) rough up with 220. Apply 1 lb (or less) cut of de-waxed shellac, preferably blond mixed from flakes. Apply oil finish to heart's content.
You'll be happy.
RE: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - cputnam - 11-01-2016
I found that a < 1# cut of dewaxed shellac lightly sanded back did a good job for me.
RE: Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop) - Joel Runyan - 11-01-2016
I do not sand unless I am staining. Shellac right off the plane or scraper if it's gnarly.
If I'm staining I work up to 320. 600 seems excessive.