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+-- Thread: SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down (/showthread.php?tid=7340922)
SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down - Ray Newman - 07-11-2018
Quote: Colleagues: I run a SawStop with the smaller sliding table. Works well.
Now here's my question: is there an aftermarket or shop fabricated clam/hold downp that will fit/work on the sliding table fence?
RE: SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down - wrb - 07-12-2018
I don’t know the t-slot size for your sliding table, but one option could be Kreg bench clamps. They can be modified to work with lots of similar applications.
RE: SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down - Ray Newman - 07-12-2018
WRB: thanks for that idea. 'Gonna have ta' take a look at the Kreg clamps.
Thought more 'bout this today and am also going to take a look at the Bessey auto-adjust toggle clamps -- https://www.woodcraft.com/products/b...gle-clamp-high --
and the River toggles, such as -- https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...00-lb-capacity
Might need to change out the threaded stem for a longer one.
Just need to figure out how to mount them so they can moveable along the fence
Thanks again!
RE: SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down - Derek Cohen - 07-13-2018
Ray, I would be cautious with clamps such as the autoadjust types. These create much force from inside the track - I tried out a couple on aluminium track inserts, and it bent them. What I use on my Hammer K3 is a version (there are a number of brands available) of the Incra Track Clamp, which screw down, so you can adjust the down force.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down - Ray Newman - 07-14-2018
On another site, a responder mentioned-Track toggle clamp plates from Lee Valley. See -- http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=71461&cat=1,43838,43845&ap=1
Looks like it might work.
Derek: saw your response and checked the Bessey web site. Bessey claims the clamping force for the auto-adjust clamps is adjustable from approximately 25 to 550 pounds. I also looked at the sliding table fence. It is fabricated from 5mm thick MM ("Mystery Metal"). With a low clamping force, it just might not distort??
I prefer the quick action type clamps. Recently ran a project that needed 10 dadoes and 4 rabbets. To hold the parts down, I utilized a block of wood held to the fence by a small F-clamp. Became tiring/time consuming adjusting the clamp/wood block every time I moved the parts for another cut.
RE: SawStop Sliding table & clamps/hold down - DanielBerlin - 07-15-2018
(07-14-2018, 01:03 PM)Ray Newman Wrote: On another site, a responder mentioned-Track toggle clamp plates from Lee Valley. See -- http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=71461&cat=1,43838,43845&ap=1
Looks like it might work.
Derek: saw your response and checked the Bessey web site. Bessey claims the clamping force for the auto-adjust clamps is adjustable from approximately 25 to 550 pounds. I also looked at the sliding table fence. It is fabricated from 5mm thick MM ("Mystery Metal"). With a low clamping force, it just might not distort??
I prefer the quick action type clamps. Recently ran a project that needed 10 dadoes and 4 rabbets. To hold the parts down, I utilized a block of wood held to the fence by a small F-clamp. Became tiring/time consuming adjusting the clamp/wood block every time I moved the parts for another cut.
I went through this a few years ago, because i machined an incra miter fence to fit the thing (I got tired of the wimpy sliding stops, etc). I later added auto adjust clamps.
1. The t-slots are not a standard size, you either need to buy saw stop's reverse screws (TSA-SA48-248) (and rethread the clamps), or mill t-nuts yourself.
You can also just buy steel bar stock and cut it.
2. If you use auto adjust clamps, you definitely need a plate or something. First, as Derek says, it will bend milled t-nuts if you make them out of non-hardened 6061. Second, you will gash the sliding table for sure while tightening them down. Ask me how i know these things
.The sliding table is made of 6061-T6 aluminum (The T6 means it's hardened, it's also anodized). I don't see to have been able to damage the actual tracks, despite bending non-hardened aluminum t-nuts in it.